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Gundee already mentioned this but one cylinder does not seem to be getting spark. It's not firing. That's why it's clean. I'd fix that before going any farther. No real value in tuning for five cylinders. And if one cylinder is completely sparkless it kind of makes you wonder if the others are getting consistent spark.

+1 on agree. I see it as a splash shield to keep excess water out of the door sill. Look at the outer hatch seal and you will see a similar function - it is the first line of defense for the hatch area, not a perfect seal but enough to deflect most of the water.

Well it ain't Halloween candy! Ha!

Didn't read of anyone telling to be very careful with the domes and those needles.. they are normally not removed by "unqualified personnel" , so be careful. Then.. I think it's not uncommon to have some difference in the carbs.. Normally they are on 2,5 rounds clockwise (seen from above) but you could open the front carb a bit more, but first as Gundee says, look for a leak in air.. Also look if the pistons come up equal when you rev the engine to say 2-3000 rpm. (you can see them when the filter is off)

Now I am going to say the carbs are likely correct. 1. I do believe the rear carb responds to mixture adjustments as it should. 2. I believe the front carb is not responding to mixture adjustments like it should. 3. Lets get our heads around that front carb. What would make it lean? Excess air is likely. I no longer have SU's on my Z so I need to go by memory and years of working on British cars with SU's.

Hmmmm. Whoops! I recall finding out about them a couple of years ago, and seeing that they were no longer answering their phone? Did they move from CA to TX? Maybe I was trying to reach them while they were "offline" for the move? Anyway, I am excited to see that they appear to be in business still.

I'm happy with the improved light over the halogens. I bought another pair of them for my old Volvo 🙂

I also just searched on Chester and Herod. They have a current FB page, and they list that number to call them.

@jalexquijano Thanks for the needle pics. It appears the needles are set to the same depth. I can't be sure about the float levels without some sort of measurement but they appear to be the same height😊. Let's assume, for now, that they're correct or close enough. Last year, when #4 was fouling, I had convinced myself that the problem was somewhere in the rotor, cap, wire, or plug connection because all parts were new and of good quality. Now the problem seems to have spread to 3 cylinders. One question. Are you using anti-seize on the plug threads? As I recall you have a multi-meter. Unplug the #1 plug wire from the plug and cap. Remove the #1 plug from the head and plug the wire into it. Measure the resistance from the cap end of the wire to the spark plug center electrode. Log it on paper and reassemble #1. Now go through the other cylinders and log those too. I can't tell you what they should be. What we're looking for is a glaring difference.

@siteunseenTime to hit the library!!!

Only if it wrong. If the float level is right then don't change it. I also agree, I still think there is a spark issue!

Hard to tell at the picture angle, but is (was) the fluid level ~ to the red line on top of the bump out on the float bowl as marked by my red line? Looks "pretty" close...

Agreed, They didn’t design it for production without a reason.

Might be for wind/air/road noise blocking and/or wind/draft blocking.

Nothing wrong with checking that front float. It seems to me it would have to be stuck in a very high position as to allow only a bit of fuel into the bowl. Lack of fuel or too much air in the front carb. = lean.

Might want to reach out to “ZTherapy” and ask what their base line settings were when they rebuilt your carburetors. You have the paperwork and I’m sure they would be happy to guide you through the process. Over time a lot of hands have been on the carbs themselves. Maybe it’s time to start from scratch with their direction. My two cents

Covers with lights on l Kioto housings arrived, so I have to swap out the Hellas soon.

I bought my carpets earlier this year from Chester and herod. Pleased with the quality. I called Jim at 760 877 3403 to order. Edit: It was 8/22 when I bought mine! Time flies.

We need to confirm the needles are installed in the pistons to the same depth. Measure from the piston bottoms to the tips of the needles. No need to unlock them and change their height if they're the same.

Have you checked the wear patterns on the rocker arm pads? People have had the wrong lash pads installed and the cam lobe rode off the end of the rocker arm. Found a few old threads.

If you didn't understand what @dutchzcarguy was describing, it is closed cell foam.

I balanced the carbs on saturday at 2 and 3k rpms with a unisyn. This was checked already

I have always usd 95 non ethanol.

I'd try BP6ESs.

My complete list: Here is my current list of recommended LED bulbs: White LED (license plate and reverse lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4 Amber LED (front side signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5 (fixed 10/27/23) Red LED (rear side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H4MXQMZ Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ1GRJY (fixed 10/27/23) Green LED (gauge lights) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VNXS6H (Non dimmable but not too bright.) Red 1156 LED (rear lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2 Gauge Lights: Green LED (gauges and turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9MGSX7K (For 260Z & 280Z) High beam LED https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GS325N6 Brake idiot light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GRJGD5Y Flasher Relays (2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811GTVH2 Hella H4 housings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G76Q2W or Koito H4 housings: https://parts.toyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70 Auxito H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH