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One complete (mostly) engine harness. Mostly because I am waiting for a handful of connectors to come in the mail. Once those are on I can instal it. I opted to wrap the harness in Tessa tape sealed with adhesive shrink tubing rather than use split loom or whatever. I think the taped look suits the car better and I’ve made provisions for anything I might add to the car that would need to tie into this (electric fuel pump). I used 51608 PET Felt tape on the end that is inside of the car to cut back on rattling or any other noises this could cause, but the rest of it is wrapped in 51036 PET Cloth Flame Retardant tape (their high heat chemical resistant stuff). As I was wrapping it up I realized that I had forgotten to put the diode on the Lamp wire to the alternator, so I had to splice that in. Looks okay. Good thing it’s wrapped up. I can’t remember if I mentioned this, but I opted not to splice the ballast resistor wires. Instead I made the stubby and put bullet connectors on them so the can be connected (I’m going to make a nicer looking jumper later). The reason is so if I discover that I do in fact need the 2,200 ohm resistor to make my tach work correctly with the e12-80 I won’t have to cut the harness open and can just pop it in there. And finally just a couple of shots of how I branched the wires prior to wrapping the harness. Changes from factory: Ballast Resistor delete AC pressure switch & compressor power Integrated electric fuel pump wiring (rather than separate harness) Ground wire direct to battery (-) 4-wire setup for 100 amp GM-style alternator

Your local upholstery shop would have it then there's always Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/plastic-edge-trim/s?k=plastic+edge+trim

I got a set in a lot of bits off ebay a few months back. You are welcome to have them as I have no use of them. If you cover the postage they are yours, would rather see them get used than sit in a pile in the back of the garage. Just PM me your mailing details. Roo

Let’s hope it works! 🤪 Thanks! Yeah, I discovered that a couple of times. It also can’t be restuck. Once you pull it off it’s shot. By the way, @SteveJ, I found that it’s possible to lessen the effectiveness of the plastic that catches the tab on the 1/4” connectors, so be careful when you pull off those colored connectors. I had to fix a few spots, particularly where a 12 or 10 gauge wire had been removed.

Your testing shows a potential issue with the relay. Let's verify your testing. Unplug the ignition relay. Measure the voltage across the battery terminal. (This is battery voltage.) Measure voltage to ground on each W/R wire. You should have battery voltage at each wire. I understand you had the same voltage on each wire as the battery. Put the key in ACC and measure voltage on the L/R wire. You should have battery voltage. I understand you had the same voltage here as the battery. Put the key in ON and measure voltage on the L/R wire and the B/W wire. Both should have battery voltage. I understand you had the same voltage on each wire as the battery. If all those tests pass, turn the key to OFF and plug in the relay. Put the key in ON and measure voltage at the RADIO fuse and the FUEL GAUGE fuse. Both should have battery voltage. I understand that you had voltage at the RADIO fuse but not the FUEL GAUGE fuse. Furthermore, the turn signals did not work. The fuel gauge and turn signals are powered by the same side of the relay. If you don't have voltage for the gauges at the fuse box (with a good fuse), I would expect the turn signals to be non-functional, too. I'm also betting that your reverse lights aren't coming on, either. Let's look at what all powered by the W/B wire. W/B Wire Floor Sensor Cal only Fuel Pump Not during cranking Inhibitor Sw AT only Fuse Box (IGN) G Turn Signal Brake Warn Lamp Turn Signal Power Seat Belt Warn Tmr Fuel Lvl Warn Lamp Reverse Lights L Gauges Cooling Fan Relay Fuel Gauge Water Temp Gauge Oil Temp Gauge Tachometer Speedometer Unk Func Kickdown Sw AT only Among other things if that relay is faulty, you could lose power to your fuel pump when the key is in ON. If the coil or contacts are breaking down, it would not surprise me if it was worse when the car is hot. Your engine could fire with the key in start and die shortly after when the key goes to ON due to the pump losing power. As far as connecting the relay in the wrong direction, yes it's possible but difficult. That edge should hit the piece of phenolic that is near the one row of pins on the relay. Also if the relay is attached to the relay panel, I would expect that you would have to twist the connector significantly to get it to be in the wrong orientation.

Actually, taking a closer look at your pics, it looks like the white two position connector includes a red/GREEN, not red/blue. And if that's the case, then the wiring diagram indicates it was for the fog lamp switch. Optional for other countries, I think.

I'll get them out this afternoon and post the measurements.

Test port for the BCDD. Look on page EC-6 of the 76 FSM

Someone is buying, there are 7 items in his sold listings. The padded inserts are just spray adhesive stuck in there. Kind of like the headliner. I have some out if you wanted measurements.

Hi Keith, I am thinking like Patcon. The story of the tailor made carpets might apply to the very early cars like up to January or February 1970. My March 1970 240Z and the BAT ultra mint green April 1970 240Z have the same jute and carpets, especially the jute look just like Japanese S30 cars. I would like to have more examples of them to see how they look like. One thing I am suspicious about is the carpets for cars up to middle of 1970 (or late 1970 or early 1971). The carpets for the US cars looks slightly different in the loop pile material than the ones for the Japanese cars. Now we see the US 1969 cars have different type of loop pile material due to the local shop made them for the early cars. But my 03/1970 and the BAT green 04/1970 both have the same carpets which look like the ones for the US 1969 cars. And also the carpets look different than the ones for the Japanese cars. So could they be the US made in those days? Not even a 1969 car could have the US local made carpets? About the jute pads, I am coming to conclusion that the jute for the US 03/1970 and 04/1970 are the same ones with all the other territories. Kats

Did you happen to look at the other items he has for sale it’s insane!!

Thought I saw a thread where someone here made one on a 3d printer. Fairly recent.

If everything else is accounted for, then I would also assume that 6-position connector is for the radio. There are five wires leading to the original radio: The red/blue and green/white are for the illumination lamp inside the radio. The white and white/black go to the speaker, and The blue wire is hot when in ACC and ON. Note that power wire goes dead during cranking, so when your voltmeter shuts off while you are running the starter, that's why. Also note that same blue wire also supplies power to the rear defogger switch and the antenna switch. So you could verify you've got the right connection by confirming that it's tied to those other two items. And....... One last thing to talk about. You mentioned earlier about a wide band? That meter system may draw significant power (because of the sensor heater?) and you might not want to pull power for that meter off the same place you put your voltmeter unless you are sure you've got a rock solid clean connection all the way back to the source. I'm thinking the current draw for the sensor may affect the voltage reading. Your voltmeter draw will be negligible, but your wide band may not be.

I believe that applies to the very early cars. I would think carpet would have become standard by late 1970...

The early USDM cars did not come With carpet nor Jute underlay. To my knowledge, C&H cut these pieces using their proprietary patterns. The trimming of the cut outs for the drain plugs and the foot rest, and the seat mount brackets were at their discretion and may not have been consistently done. Keith

A final observation: the inboard mounting location for the retractor is going to result in constant rubbing of the lapbelt against the side of the seat. Good luck with your project.

@DatsunZGuy you are the man. I went to Orielly and had them ship in Trico 47-600, Trico 47-700, and 47-800. 47-600 was much to small in width, 47-800 was too large. So if anyone sees this thread in the future and has the 77-78 280z model, keep you blade and just "refill" the rubber with Trico 47-700 wiper refills. I had to just barely bend the claws on the blade, but nothing crazy at all to make it fit. Cost me a whole 9$😃.