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The green fusible links are green fusible links. https://zcardepot.com/collections/electrical/products/fusible-link-wire-green-280z-1974-78?_pos=9&_sid=4a0072d4b&_ss=r Now you might need different terminals, but those are available through a myriad of sources, including Vintage Connections. That reminds me. I need to generate more content for YouTube. Wire crimping would be a good topic.

You can't do SteveJ's test with wire wiggling. Multimeters look complex but most of us only use two of the functions. Voltage and resistance. You can ignore all of the rest. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circuit-tester-with-5-ft-lead-63603.html

And to add on to @Yarb's post, fusible links are designed to burn up internally and leave the insulation intact. Touch the leads together on your meter. The reading may not be quite zero, and that's the reading you should get when you measure across the links.

Oh... And maybe slow down a little. Focus on one thing at a time. Pick one problem and get that item working and then move on to the next one. It's easy to become overwhelmed and then overwhelm your help.

That coolant hose going to the intake manifold I believe helps warm up the incoming gas, helps atomize it on cold mornings, the earlier cars didn't have that and they work fine.

Disconnect and ohm it out

Heat. The bolts typically rust in the bores and rust expands when it is formed. Heat the aluminum to get it to grow and it will help break the bond. If a bolt breaks it will probably be just the head and upper shaft. The housing will still be stuck on the rusty part. Once you get the housing off the remainder of the bolt will probably come by hand.

Keep in mind that the tests I listed in my long post will work with the car not running. Do those first. Also, post pictures of your fusible links, including clear photos of the bases that hold the links.

I actually keep one of those handy for when I go over to help someone with his car.

I can't believe is has been 10 yrs since I started this thread🥴 Seems like you have it figured out but you could also go the cigar lighter route and get a couple of USB chargers to boot. I have one of these in another car and it works well.

OK, Patcon, thanks for letting me know he's still around.

@kickstand80This is a 260 with carbs not sure they had a AAR housing like EFI. But who knows….

I like Auxito LEDs from Amazon. Those are polarity independent. I have never had a problem with them, and neither has anyone else I have recommended them to. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

Coolant hose for the hot plate under the Aux Air Regulator

Window and door mechanisms are no fun. I had to gut the door to get a new latch mechanism installed. You might as well overhaul the door.

This may be some info you can use... https://www.google.com/search?q=74+260z+thermostat+housing+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&sca_esv=560376192&ei=MmLqZJWxEs63ptQP36CywAc&oq=74+260z+thermostat+housing+classiczcars.com+&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIiw3NCAyNjB6IHRoZXJtb3N0YXQgaG91c2luZyBjbGFzc2ljemNhcnMuY29tIDIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUj7a1DjGFjUW3ABeACQAQCYAbMBoAGADKoBBDAuMTC4AQPIAQD4AQHCAggQABiiBBiwA8ICCxAAGIkFGKIEGLADwgIFECEYqwLCAgUQABiiBOIDBBgBIEGIBgGQBgM&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp And this also... https://www.google.com/search?q=74+260z+thermostat+housing+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&sca_esv=560376192&ei=hmLqZOzpDZGpptQPgbCFwAY&oq=74+260z+thermostat+housing+&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIhs3NCAyNjB6IHRoZXJtb3N0YXQgaG91c2luZyAyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYqwJIwV5QzA1Y8ilwAHgAkAEAmAGeAaABpBGqAQQwLjE3uAEDyAEA-AEBwgIIEAAYogQYsAPCAgsQABiJBRiiBBiwA8ICBxAhGKABGArCAgUQABiiBOIDBBgBIEGIBgGQBgQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

I agree that using the OEM mounting points is the only way to go. Many times over the years I have seen where ill advised shade tree mechanics have mounted seat belts and even seats to nothing more than the unreinforced sheet metal of the floorpan. In the event of a crash, the bolts will pull through, even when using large diameter washers to “spread the load”. Automotive manufacturers engineer and design for safety. Circumventing the original design is asking for disaster.

One more vote for using the factory mounting points for any seatbelt option you choose. Don't gamble your life with a questionable install. The WESCO belts are an easy install with your OE bolts and comfortable in use.

@grannyknot makes some great points. I used a seatbelt system similar to the one MSA sells for many years in my 240Z, but when I changed out the old seat belts in my 260Z, I went with the Wesco Performance Roadster belts (https://www.wescoperformance.com/noname.html). @jfa.series1 found them independently of my posts on them. You mount the retractor on the upper mounting point. While I understand you have already purchased the MSA belts, sometimes you have to absorb the sunk costs and move on.

As a new owner of a 240Z (2018) it amazes me when I meet a original owner of a Z purchased new and beloved for 50+ years. Several owners at ZCON had similar stories. Hagerty posted a story of a 240Z owner, check it out on Hagerty site, weekend road trips. https://www.hagerty.com/media/car-profiles/original-owner-a-navy-sailor-returns-home-to-a-new-datsun-240z/?