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Torque spec for the torsion rod end nut - Page FA-2 of the manual says 33 to 40 ft-lbs. Basically, you should compress the rubber to the point where you have bottomed out against the metal sleeve that runs through the center and then torque to hold it there. Oh, and not totally sure, but it looks to me like you have the big washers on the torsion rod bushing installed backwards. They should have the convex side towards the rubber. Counter-intuitive, but that's the way they want it. Should be like this:

Jug...I put new tires on my car last weekend. I bought the cheapest thing WalMart had at $49 a piece...Dextero "Touring" 195/70-14. I did it for numerous reasons, one being to see if my original steel wheels were going to work out as I have a set of really nice original wheel covers that I ultimately want to use (I think the Turbines look good, too...!). Second was to see what effect CORRECT size tires would have on the ride height. Third reason was the tires on the Turbines were from 1999. They could be unsafe and may very well have torn belts within them causing ride / handling issues. I will say that the car rides and handles much better. I will also say that I feel safer...more confident so I can concentrate on the road and the car, rather than the tires. I would now like to do the same thing it sounds like you are doing, loosening the bushings wherever possible and (maybe) putting weight in the car and (possibly) bouncing the suspension in an effort to lower its stance...? I am as skeptical as it sounds like you are...but worth a shot. I bought a set of NOS rear springs that will be my next move along with the originals on the front as I really want a stock stance. Until then, I will work on sorting electrical demons in an effort at getting the car reliably on the road. All the best...Ryals

After all these years.. they are all cracked.. get yourself a 3d printer (or someone who has one) and make them yourself (and sell a few to get even..) Mart.

WOW... So.. as a (direct!) dutch guy i say.. so he's a PODS now? 🙊 sorry had to make that joke.. Oh well.. now he can't screw up any car.. it's all very sad.

Something different.

Looks nice, you are doing some great work on this Z. I did this mod back before anyone made a “kit” for it. Sourced the Toyota 4x4 calipers and 300ZX rotors from the local parts supplier, made a drawing in CAD for the spacers and had a local machine shop cut a pair from 7075 T1 aluminum, picked the longer bolts at the local specialty bolt supplier. It was on my race Z, so I didn’t use the backing plates, instead custom building aluminum cooling ducts to direct air to the center of the rotors and also to the calipers. I made up my own stainless braided Teflon hoses with 37 degree JIC fittings and all the hard lines from stainless steel tubing. Works awesome, brakes that last all weekend at a race meet and don’t require bleeding after every track session.

My thought is that the Z cars that bring big money on BaT are bone stock. Even though all the mods are tasteful and make the car better, the BaT crowd might not agree. I hope the OP gets what he wants wherever he decides to sell it.

My POS body guy gave my car back to me with very straight body lines. But the paint looked like it needed sanding so I had a friend do it. But when he started, he sanded color. Then he offered to repaint it. His paint job looked great. Unfortunately, after I started putting the car back together, I became suspicious about the rear quarters when I put a set of old rims on the car. The wheel offset was off. I got a tape measure out and it was all screwed up. The underneath looked bad too. I couldnt understand why. It wasnt in that bad of shape when I gave it to him. But I had to live with it because shortly after I picked up the car, he blew his head off. So now I am paying a shop to undo his work. Then do it correctly. They will have had the car for about 6-7 months. I think I will get it back in a couple weeks.