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OK - so with mine, cleaning the contacts & replacing the rivets with brass screws has resolved the lack of contectivity. circuit open circuit closed

My washer pump was DOA, along with all the hoses to & from the jets. I decided to fix it all while I have the cowl apart I have stashes of Volvo parts, so I made a Volvo (VDO) pump fit. These were used for all Volvo 700/900 series from 83-98, so readily available. Later models use a large inlet that plugs directly into the tank, so none of those will work. Only had to bore out the factory sleeve to retain the new pump in the same location. Made an adaptor pigtail using the factory pump wiring. Pump is larger than original, still no issue with space Making an adaptor pigtail using the original pump harness Pump & tank installed, Volvo line filter added Volvo check valve added (just under the cowl lip) to maintain fluid head at the junction

I recently completed a throttle cable conversion on my 77 280Z. Combined with my new throttle body, it's smooth as can be. Without going into all the gory details, here's some pics. Here's an overview pic. Cable come through the bulkhead and swerves a soft S-bend towards the master cylinders. This allows some slack in the cable to account for engine movement while running. It also allows clearance for the EGR valve if you are running one. My PO removed mine, but I may reinstall at some point so I wanted the cable to clear. Top level overview: Here's the bulkhead passthrough. I made a threaded adapter and sealing nut on the lathe. The flats allow me to get wrenches on the passthrough from the engine compartment so I don't have to use tools up under the dash. This is the second passthrough I made... First one had the tightening nut on the other side under the dash. It worked fine, but was a real PITA to tighten with wrenches up under there. So I spun it around and made another one with the installation direction reversed:. Don't mind the loose A/C grommet: Here's another pic of the firewall passthrough. In this pic, you can see how the cable is held into the passthrough. The metal ring is crimped into a hex and that clamps down on the cable sheath holding it in place. Since the sheath is pretty much always in compression, it doesn't have to be a hard lock, but it's nice that the sheath is a decent friction fit into the passthrough. Yes, that's a cable RG-6 crimp tool used for cable TV and Ethernet. I got lucky and it works great for what I was doing: Under the dash, I converted over to a different connection design on the pedal. I purchased an already messed up pedal from someone with a failed cable conversion. He had already removed the original ball stud, so I drilled the hole out to the correct size to tap with threads and ran a tap through. I also made an "L" bracket adapter to attach to a Honda Civic throttle cable. I ground a little off the end of the pedal to get the angles right, and... Here's the parts separate: Another pic showing my original pedal next to my modified version. Here's the parts put together. A little blue threadlock on the bolt and it looks like this: So out in the engine compartment for the termination end at the throttle body, I made a bracket that mounts where my AAR used to attach. I have switched over to a different throttle body and the AAR is no longer needed so those holes were re-purposed for my cable bracket: And here's another pic of the bracket up by the throttle body. Note that doing it this way also allows me to adjust the throttle cable play extremely easy using the original Civic adjustment nuts: I'll talk about the cable itself in a little bit.

Cheap caulk gun is all you need. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap one for a few bucks. I’d go with the recommendations that are proven. IMO

So today another bunch of parts arrived: First a bunch of goodies from Sean over at datsun-zstory.com in France. A Bronze upgrade worm gear for the oil pump: Something similar has been on sale by Nissan (in this catalogue they state it's brass, but in some others, they mention it's bronze too). And a set of replica stainless steel window corner trim pieces, which he just recently released. It's also planned to release the longer parts soon too. so maybe i'll get a set of those too. from my first glance they look excellent! And then another bunch of panels from KFVintageJDM parts in Bogota. After we decided to redo the work on the right side, that my previous panel beater did so-so. I thought let's just buy whatever is available so i have it on hand if needed. i can easy sell thos items anytime if i don't need them and i didn't want to make any more unplanned orders. so basically i have almost every part of the usual problematic areas in stock and ready to be replaced. It's easy for a skilled panelbeater to make such panels by hand, but if you look at all these die-stampted details from the KFVintage parts, made as close as possible to the original panels, i have to say it will become hard to get all the details right. so here we are. I Will visit the bodyshop next week to have a look at the progress, So far i haven't got any feedback, which worries me a bit, but is nice if they prefer to work on the car instead of texting and sending photos. I'll see..

Well thins might explain why I still have exhaust gasses in my cabin even after replacing bother seals. I think using silicone is a good idea and I don’t care what the next owner has to do since I plan on never removing them again. [emoji23]

Stock motor with stock compression - go with 87 or choose 91 if you like to burn money for no gain. If you have higher compression, go with 91.

I'm going to keep the heater valve in the cabin - I want to convert to AN bulkhead fittings for the bayside hoses. In part so that when I do the drivetrain conversion (at some future date) it will be easier to modify, same as the AC line fittings I'm going to get rid of the long flapping hose & put a section of 5/8 SS pipe (approx 18") which will be bolted to the block in the existing harness attachment points. I'll be bead -rolling the pipe for a tight hose fit

I used "Seal and Peel" which is a clear silicone that is designed to be an easily removable temporary seal. I haven't had the pleasure of trying to pull the taillights out since (so I don't know how bad it would be), but I've done the same on other cars and it was fine. They came off without a fight. I would post up some pics o what I did, but I'm getting the same server error as other people. But the tube looks like this:

Gathering fittings for the conversion - I'm going to put a bulkhead connector so the bay side hoses can be detached without missing with the interior connections. Down the road I will be altering the drivetrain, so I want to make it as adaptable as possible

Ordered several things yesterday from Zcardepot. Shortly after I ordered I remembered I needed a gasket. I sent them an email last night. This morning I got a notice that the order had shipped. I thought, oh well, I guess they didnt get my email. A couple of hours later I get an email saying "Here's an invoice for the gasket, just pay it and will will drop in the box, we are holding the shipment for you". Hard to beat that kind of attention.

All of the gaskets I have removed on old Z's were "stuck" to the body. I would either use something like 3M trim adhesive, or maybe contact cement on the gaskets. Glad to hear the smoke machine worked though. Sealing the leaks is much easier than finding the leaks.

Thanks. I got on to his website and can't find rings called out specifically. Just a kit with ITM pistons and rings. Anyway, no guarantee that what came in the box was what was supposed to be in them. He has a disclaimer at the top of the listing. "Brands vary". I really would send Al a message. Even if he doesn't offer a refund at least he'll know that people are on to his game. He'll probably stop selling that specific piece of garbage. https://www.californiadatsun.com/engine-overhaul/engine-overhaul-rebuild-master-kit.html?highlight=WyJyaW5ncyJd New ITM High Pistons with Rings (select your size) Only DISHED available until 2023. https://www.californiadatsun.com/about-us/contact-us.html