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Was $25 too much?

Cleaned up around the crank, and removed the pulley & old seal. Definitely well hardened. There is a decent wear groove on the pulley seal neck, so I made sure to alter the seal depth for the new one After that I cut down the Volvo bolts to match the Nissan length (checked that at the full length they would bottom out before pulling the pump tight to the casing) New pump back on Repaired T/stat cover Volvo bolts, cut down to match Nissan original length, with 10mm heads to make it easier to access by the fuel lines, and harder to overtighten In other news, going to add a fuel pressure gauge over here And got a new throttle cable accordian boot. Not planning on driving it in the rain, but I don't want NY weather working it's way into the cabin

Installed a u-shaped 3/8" brake line to take care of 90 degree kinks with the replacement 8312 fuel pump. Will keep my fingers crossed that it will last.

Congrats Site ….. Good luck with the shave and shim!

Could you add some poorer pictures from farther away? Throw some more dirt and grime on also. Ha ha ha...

I haven't used those adaptors. I have a set already but will try these if those dont work out. CV axles should be a definite upgrade and more durable. They also make it easier to switch to a LSD diff. Likewise the throttle cable should be a nice upgrade. It should last a 100k miles. More than most people will put on their classic z in a lifetime

I believe they are hyper black . They have colors that are close to each other . I believe mine are hyper black . But when I ordered new caps in hyper black they looked darker . So maybe I’m no help - lol

Nope.. but i ask myself why are your halfshafts noisy.. i never heard of that.. unless they have a lot of play? Isn't there a simple solution, just replace some "bearings" in the linkage? i wouldn't go for a cable.. it will not last as long as a linkage.. that says something about the quality.. Just check the linkage overall "bearings" and some lube should make it a lot better.

Haha! Been laying around for ages is always nice for making a good deal. Nice story. And yes... I would also assume the hydrolic oil in your lift is NON-detergent.

Mike replied to a Support request that I made. In case anyone else has concerns. Thanks Mike. Sorry to be a pain, but it's a big deal these days. There really are hackers out there, and many of them are pretty good at what they do. https://www.classiczcars.com/support/1485/

I’m troubled here. Why wasn’t the pressure measured after the mechanical pump before you made any decisions. The pressure is probably ok as @Racer Xmentioned earlier. Probably over thinking this. You don’t have a threshold of the current pressure.

I used this horn restoration kit; https://www.ebay.com/itm/165791931442?hash=item2699f81c32:g:jk0AAOSw0z5hnvDB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwBlTiF8rlJ40nO36Pb8FhL4LPM70GQBmmyyFDt7miW5qeMPhF28RtFCzrQCMH9Oa0daMCxajPII0Rd8dP8AXnywkgbNAeDRC2amtxJGx1xLVaqRTO4mebkwfRxbJAE6NLZ7naC5%2BGlCZywKtQgVkRQvd3taAJl2vmbb7vebgzN%2BbTI3r8hTBcnzRap1aLfcvXIaRKiKGbOSh7HTJVE2NSdjJ6H5wcNeRxw%2FqcAV3bs6%2FoGhmFQLyd%2BoA9dfvmiZt9A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_zhr_vvYQ

Thanks guys, I’ll look at my options online, Went to Harbor Freight and Lowe’s and neither had these bits so I’ll go check out Amazon.

Thanks CO! I bet then that the hydrolic oil in my car lift is also NON-detergent oil! In 1995 when i bought my lift, it worked a year or 2 and then i restored it by putting in a brand new pump and new oil and seals.. I know the oil is the right stuff as the firm that delivered me the new pump also delivered the oil. As you like stories! I phoned that firm when i needed the new pump.. the old one was 10 years old and used a lot.. When i asked the guy on the phone and he repeated the number of the pump someone on the background sayd: YES! we do have a pump like that! It's been laying around here for Ages!! Then as he was also hanging around in theire warehouse looking for the pump to be sure, he came back on the phone and told me, YES we have a pump for you! I told him: Yes.. and it's laying around there for AGES! Hahaha, he laughed, did you hear that!! YES i did and i'm in need of a discount haha.. i believe it was about 75dollars that pump.. (150 guilders then) It's still working till this day! (It's a spanish brand 3 or 3,5 ton lift. ISTOBAL )

I am surprised (maybe only me) that the clutch master cylinder applied for Z432/Z432-R and LHD car was used up to Aug 1974! For the US, it is from the beginning of 240Z to early 260Z. Now I see why I have got mine from the US. In Japan we have only approximately 420 Z432( 380 Z432, 30-50 Z432R ). The cylinder E4100 to 4201 is rare to see ( I guess other Nissan cars were sharing the cylinder body but) here in Japan. HLS30 and RLS30 were approximately 240000 cars up to Aug 1974. Why Nissan used E4100 suffix for the cylinder applied HLS30 and PS30 chassis at the beginning? E4100 was the suffix for S30 ( RHD, L20 model) originally. It should have been used for S30 and could have been used for HS30 body. If I were the man who categorized the suffix, I would have E4200 (Z432) or E4400(HLS30 Euro) or E4600(HLS30 US and Canada ) for the cylinder when the factory started making them. Anyway, for RHD car, the clutch master cylinder has suffix of E4300 which was originally designated for HS30 ( RHD, L24 model). I can’t stop myself being excited that the clutch master cylinder had the suffix E4201 for early 260Z until August 1974. Note the red marking of the illustration of the E4100 to E4201 is not correct. This port should be the other side. By the way,Skyline GTR up to December 1972 had the same port on this illustration. Kats

T/stat cover came off without too much drama. I had to block sand both surfaces, they were both pitted Chased the threads in the housing, to clean it up. There is pitting in the underside of the cover neck, but the inside is clean. I can only presume coolant has been seeping past the (crappy) Gates upper hose, that wasn't quite the right ID. Cleaned up the pitted area with a Dremel wire wheel, I'll fill it with JB Weld Water pump bolts didn't feel great coming out, so I worked them back & forth fair bit. Mating surface mostly cleaned up here The original hardware for the water pump cleaned up OK, but I think I'll use newer hardware. The T/stat bolts are nasty. The Volvo bolts have integrated flanges & are higher grade While I was in the bay, I added an 80's Fiat brake line clip to replace the broken hood prop retainer (and put some primer on the area where the rad sits up against the panel Checked the fit of the Volvo fan shroud on the rad - should work OK, the center of the fan motor will be offset to the left, and the water pump sits offset somewhat to the right. I'll test fit it once I figure out a suitable method of retaining the shroud flush to the rad core motor.. Have to locate mating pins and/or water proof housing for the eFan connections - pretty sure they are Furukawa or Yazaki ? EDIT - Yakazi 58 Y series EDIT - assuming the shroud & fan clear the waterpump snout, I will wire the fan same way I did on my old Volvo

Boy, I have no idea why it linked my membership application through you. I think I just went in the front door of the website and hit the join button. Decided to join up since my 260 early restoration is finally kicking into gear. Sorry if I creeped anybody out 😅

Just for reference here is one of the horns from my 7/70. It does appear to have the greenish olive drab finish, but darker that most I've seen. there was a lot overspray on it so It might be darker from staining. Here is a picture of the 31K mile car that sold for big money on BAT a couple of years ago. The horns look like a light olive drab color on the fronts. Here is a good discussion about horn finishes, sorry for the duplication of pics.