Leaderboard

T/stat cover came off without too much drama. I had to block sand both surfaces, they were both pitted Chased the threads in the housing, to clean it up. There is pitting in the underside of the cover neck, but the inside is clean. I can only presume coolant has been seeping past the (crappy) Gates upper hose, that wasn't quite the right ID. Cleaned up the pitted area with a Dremel wire wheel, I'll fill it with JB Weld Water pump bolts didn't feel great coming out, so I worked them back & forth fair bit. Mating surface mostly cleaned up here The original hardware for the water pump cleaned up OK, but I think I'll use newer hardware. The T/stat bolts are nasty. The Volvo bolts have integrated flanges & are higher grade While I was in the bay, I added an 80's Fiat brake line clip to replace the broken hood prop retainer (and put some primer on the area where the rad sits up against the panel Checked the fit of the Volvo fan shroud on the rad - should work OK, the center of the fan motor will be offset to the left, and the water pump sits offset somewhat to the right. I'll test fit it once I figure out a suitable method of retaining the shroud flush to the rad core motor.. Have to locate mating pins and/or water proof housing for the eFan connections - pretty sure they are Furukawa or Yazaki ? EDIT - Yakazi 58 Y series EDIT - assuming the shroud & fan clear the waterpump snout, I will wire the fan same way I did on my old Volvo

The adjustable regulator is this one: EuroSpec Sport. The standard (non-adjustable 3bar) FPR in the 2nd pic is what all Volvos & VAG came with. The black plastic pod that it sits in is a separate part that was only sold with the feed & return lines attached, so pretty much the only way to get it is to cut it from a parts car. The Volvo 3bar FPR is PN 9404583 for reference. They don't go bad, so if you were going to use one, I'd get it used. EDIT - VAG # 037133035C Bosch # 0 280 160 557 EDIT - this is an aftermarket housing that accepts that style FPR. I just found that searching, so there may be other (less expensive options) This composite one for a Harley also accepts the same design FPR, don't know if the ports are useable

I used this horn restoration kit; https://www.ebay.com/itm/165791931442?hash=item2699f81c32:g:jk0AAOSw0z5hnvDB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwBlTiF8rlJ40nO36Pb8FhL4LPM70GQBmmyyFDt7miW5qeMPhF28RtFCzrQCMH9Oa0daMCxajPII0Rd8dP8AXnywkgbNAeDRC2amtxJGx1xLVaqRTO4mebkwfRxbJAE6NLZ7naC5%2BGlCZywKtQgVkRQvd3taAJl2vmbb7vebgzN%2BbTI3r8hTBcnzRap1aLfcvXIaRKiKGbOSh7HTJVE2NSdjJ6H5wcNeRxw%2FqcAV3bs6%2FoGhmFQLyd%2BoA9dfvmiZt9A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_zhr_vvYQ

I am surprised (maybe only me) that the clutch master cylinder applied for Z432/Z432-R and LHD car was used up to Aug 1974! For the US, it is from the beginning of 240Z to early 260Z. Now I see why I have got mine from the US. In Japan we have only approximately 420 Z432( 380 Z432, 30-50 Z432R ). The cylinder E4100 to 4201 is rare to see ( I guess other Nissan cars were sharing the cylinder body but) here in Japan. HLS30 and RLS30 were approximately 240000 cars up to Aug 1974. Why Nissan used E4100 suffix for the cylinder applied HLS30 and PS30 chassis at the beginning? E4100 was the suffix for S30 ( RHD, L20 model) originally. It should have been used for S30 and could have been used for HS30 body. If I were the man who categorized the suffix, I would have E4200 (Z432) or E4400(HLS30 Euro) or E4600(HLS30 US and Canada ) for the cylinder when the factory started making them. Anyway, for RHD car, the clutch master cylinder has suffix of E4300 which was originally designated for HS30 ( RHD, L24 model). I can’t stop myself being excited that the clutch master cylinder had the suffix E4201 for early 260Z until August 1974. Note the red marking of the illustration of the E4100 to E4201 is not correct. This port should be the other side. By the way,Skyline GTR up to December 1972 had the same port on this illustration. Kats

Here is the measurement of the OE headliner from my 7/70, overall thickness 11mm (.433") and best I could measure the vinyl thickness is 0.3 mm (.012") Here's a pic showing the grain and "stipple" pattern with a tape measure. I call it stippling as it's more of a depression, definitely not a hole that goes through the vinyl.

Wow. Excellent!

I'm no oil expert, but as I understand it, the general theory / consensus is there would be increased wear on the moving components like the crank bearings. Goes like this... The difference between the "detergent" and the "non-detergent" oils is the ability to suspend particulate contaminants in the oil. The automotive oils (detergent) contain additives that are designed to intentionally suspend particulate contaminants in the oil. The expectation is that those contaminants will be removed from the system and trapped in the oil filter. The non-detergent oils are used in applications (like your compressor) where there is no oil filter. The intention is that the particulate contaminants are NOT suspended in the oil, but instead sink to the bottom of the crankcase where they don't do any harm. Those contaminants are removed from the system when you change the oil, or every twenty years when you break the crankcase open and scoop them out manually. If you use detergent oil in something like your compressor, some of the harmful contaminants will be suspended in the oil and continuously circulated through the system where you don't want them. Better to let that stuff settle to the bottom than have it end up in your main and rod bearings.

As this seems to be the thread that never dies, I guess it's a good place to ask. For those who've used the Kia weatherstripping on the hatch, how did you deal with the raised lip on the opening? It seems to be keep the weatherstripping from sitting properly, but I haven't tried persuading it with a mallet yet. Grinding the lip down or off would get the job done, but I'm hesitant to go with the irreversible option whenever possible. What did you guys do?