Leaderboard

Thank you. I made that last year - took about 3 months to do the cut & weld work on it. I wanted to keep the gate functional, and keep the flow of the factory body lines as much as possible. On the bumper install, I removed the rear bumper yesterday. I was surprised to find that my valance is a bolt on desgin - I've seen many YT where they had to cut spot welds to remove it. Perhaps that is only the late 280z? I need to drop the tank so I can get the bumper shocks out before I test fit the rear bumper. While I was on the back end, I added M5 rivnuts and some closed cell foam as a surround for the hatch louvre, that got rid of the rattles & open holes that will only be rust magnets now the car is in NY climate

Still haven't figured this out, so I bought a cheap universal wheel (Nardi/Personal/Momo) Boss kit HUB-N-2 that allowed me to use an old Nardi wheel I had stashed. I'll need to find a 48mm Datsun emblem to replace the Abarth emblem. This will do until I figure out a way to use the Datsun wheel. New dash is here, so that will be on the agenda

I should mention one more thing. I said if you are restoring car, don't throw anything away. I have a low mile car that I am not restoring. Dont throw anything away period. I violated one of the @Mike rules and installed poly bushings in the steering rack of my 60k car. But since I tossed the parts in a box and didnt throw them away, I am able to recover and reinstall my rubber bushings.

Yes. Wait. Does your car have an electric fuel pump also? Sorry, I had to think about that for a moment, because on the race Z there isn’t a mechanical pump, only two electric pumps at the fuel cell. My stock 72 Z only has the mechanical pump, in fact the system is the original equipment from 1972, no electric pump, and no added regulator. So if your car has both an electric and a mechanical pump, between the electric pump and the mechanical pump should be OK. The stock mechanical pumps shouldn’t produce too much pressure, as they were designed to supply the carbs without a regulator. You might want to check the pressures in the system. That will help you understand what is happening, and why fuel is spilling out from the carb throats. As dirty as the float bowls were, the problem may not have been too much fuel pressure, but rather dirt in the needle and seat, allowing the bowls to overfill.

I haven't swapped mine yet or even bought anything to swap them with. Forget about it until I corner hard left and hear my tire rubbing on my fender!

Yes. It has a thin "gasket" somewhee between 80graam and 120gram/m3 paper. I made a set out of 120gr, but it was a little thicker than the original. Plenty of rebuilds showing horn restoration, only problem is that the horn restoration is buried in the rebuild threads. Just need to be a little creative with google and search through the results.

He's changed a lot in 5 years! He's 6'7"+. He's a Caterpillar heavy equipment field mechanic

I think they ran into a couple issues with the AAR operation. First issue is that on a very cold day, the cold air going through the AAR may have prevented the AAR from closing completely. In other words, the heating coil may have been overwhelmed by the cold air stream. Second issue (and one that I have experienced myself) is the rapid cooling off of the AAR. Park the car and run into the store for a couple minutes... When you come out and start the car, the idle is bumped up again because the AAR cooled off. The thermal mass of the heating plate and the water slows that process down and prevents that. That's my read.

So I spent a little more time on the car today I had this filler neck and it was stiff but not pliable. So I soaked it for about 36 hours. Made all the difference in the world. Really amazing... Turns out it needs to be pretty pliable to get it installed Who was looking for these? Also I have this selection of gas pedals: Which was is correct for my 71? 2 have plastic pivots and one has a metal pivot. The one with the metal pivot is also shaped a little differently