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Ouch.

I removed and examined the u-joints from one axle. Even though they felt very nice, when I took them apart, I found some damage. First pic - outer joint, second pic, inner joint, and third pic - oem new in box joint: The new, oem joint is pre-drilled for a grease fitting but comes with a screw/cap, and retaining clips with different colors painted on their sides. They differ in thickness, with 3 or 4 groups of four clips. I think 12 total are included. I wonder if this casting mark (the I) is important (first pic)? The "D" location corresponds to the drilled hole for the grease fitting. I had two oem nos joints in my stash. Since both of the joints in the one axle I took apart had damage, I went ahead with ordering two more. I found some nos oem of the same part number on eBay for about $50 each. I need to review the what the factory shop manual says about replacing these u-joints to make sure I am not missing something important about the replacement process.

The seal has a seat in the rotor. The inner bearing will be pressed against the outer bearing race after installation so there will be no wobble. It will be wobbly while it's off the spindle but not once it's installed. Here are some pictures from the FSM. There's a gap.

I've gotten more than one, just remembered I ask but never got an answer.

Time for some Xiaflex

I figured out the exhaust part, it is from a 79-83 zx. I must have grabbed it when I was robbing a zx of of parts.

Yep, I was pretty sure he would be replacing the sending unit with that much difference.

thanks Zed Head for the help!!! I did take your suggestion today. I used the blue wire at the coil and with the early 74 ingition module removed. I had no continuity from the blue wire to the signal wire at the tach. I did try wiring direct again from the msd 6a tach output to the back of the tach and it works great. now when I did try that before, I was using the fan override switch in the cab to turn the fan on and the tach would drop, but I never let the engine warm up. [ too much load] now when the engine is cold it will idle at about 650 rpms and when fully warm up it will idle about 850 -900 rms. so with the lower rpms it looks like the alternator was not putting out enough. I am still using the stock charging system with a 50amp alternator, and also using the external voltage regulator. but I still can't use the electronic flasher, could be with some 90% led bulbs, but that is no big deal. thank you very much again for your help. you are a great forum member. kully

Watched Fletch on my layover the other day: if you haven’t seem it and want a flashback to the good-ole 80’s it is a must watch. Wow, has our country has changed, I’d give up all the tech to go bac. Chevy Chase is classic. Loved this movie. Saw 2-3 Zs in the movie.

Looks like a '72 240Z shown for a spilt second on this episode of the TV Series Cannon from 1973. Here's the clip, don't blink. It's about 5 seconds in. 20230222_032712.mp4

Mi e gas the straps also ,1972 240Z