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Thanks for the compliment! I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Driving my P car can be a bit nerve racking. I may find that driving this car will feel very much the same. I mean... the hours I have in the body work now are quite outrageous. But, I can't stop my quest for the best I can do. And I also can't avoid driving my cars. So, this car will see spirited driving indeed.

It's been a while Mr. AK. What's been happening?

Very nice and sharp! It looks pretty close to perfect! If you make it too perfect it gets nerve racking to drive it...

Yes, its to replace the carbs with a single 4 barrel. Maybe the air cleaner would not clear the hood, so that is to route air to a remote air cleaner. I suggested a turbo because I think Cartech had a turbo set up back in the day for the z. May be some old pics somewhere online.

I took out the MC and turned the nut in on the booster. There was a good bit of preload on the MC from the booster so hopefully that will fix it. I did take apart the switch and it was absolutely disgusting inside. When I first rebuilt the front calipers I noticed there was a lot of gunk in there, so I'll probably have to take them apart again... And no problemo AK! Always nice to meet new people!

While these Koni's were designed for the stock equipment at the top, Koni is progressive when it comes to performance items, like lowering springs, and custom top mounts, and always try to find a way to make it work, unlike some other companies. If you have chosen to use a custom mount (pillowball, camber plate, etc.), then hopefully these suggestions will help. One of the Koni techs had a chance to respond this morning: "The idea of using an impact is never recommended. Doing so over the strut nut is essentially a guarantee to destroy the strut internals, or at very least the threads. Using a layer of rubber to protect the rod and set of pliers or vice grips is another option but extreme caution also needs to be taken to ensure the rod is not damaged or marred. If using this method it would also be a good item to hold the shaft at the highest point possible near the upper mount. Try to grab at an area on the rod that less likely to pass through the guide seal during normal compression stroke." Other thoughts: jonbill said "make a washer with a D shape hole and bond/weld it in to the top of the top mount." This could be a great idea, depending on what tops you are using, especially if you may need to remove them often for racing or some other reason. For those skilled in welding, you might even take your custom top mounts, and weld a small piece of metal at the opposite of the D shape. But since the torque spec is so light, even a simple bonding as suggested would be enough to hit the necessary torque figure. Using pliers and some form of rubber or protection is a time-honored method. Great suggestions we've heard include what AK260 said (cutting a rubber hose from the valve cover breather/etc.); or using an old serpentine belt from the family sedan; or a good rubber hose section or two. Another option, completely depending on the configuration of the custom mount you are using, might be tools like an oxygen sensor "wrench", if you can find one in a matching size and height that you need. If so, you can use it to torque the nut, and above it either use two nuts to lock the shaft using a wrench, or perhaps the rubber-in-pliers method at the top, not going anywhere near the lower part of the shaft. Many setups won't have room for this option. For all of these, just keep in mind that if you are using a custom mount setup, it is still your responsibility to ensure the shaft isn't damaged, so always use extreme caution.

That piece would be used either as a way to connect a remote mounted air filter, or, in a blow through turbo setup, to route the pressurized air into the carburetor.

Good to know. I didn't see any typical choke plates and didn't know if something was missing or that was the way it was supposed to be. The linkage is there but didn't see anything moving when I operated the linkage. Knowing there's not supposed to be choke plates is a big relief. Thanks

The one I have here in the states is a Hitachi . AM/FM mono with on speaker in the left rear hatch panel

It's controlled by multiple quick turns on the volume or tuning controls. Fo example if a phone call comes in I can accept it by making one quick turn to the right on the tuning knob. To end the call one quick turn to the left on the tuning knob. Go to the web site they have a good video demonstration of all the features and how to operate them. www.tech-retro.com.

I haven't had a chance to check the plunger on the master cylinder side yet, but the pedal side has a good amount of play in it before it starts actuating the booster. I should hopefully be able to take out the DP switch and check it to make sure there isn't anything gumming it up

Maybe a 4 barrel turbo set up?

make a washer with a D shape hole and bond/weld it in to the top of the top mount.

Charles has a good memory. It was, as I recall, just #4 that was fouling. Are they all fouling now after idling?

What else do you think he would say? We are talking about California Datsun right?