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The local store ( like Home Depo) has soft rubber, and it worked quite well. It looked not bad I think. Kats

Hi Patcon, I checked mine and yes it seems painted flat black on center from inside. This set of the tail light is used ones so I cleaned and polished. I have isobutylene-isoprene rubber, it is sticky so I will try using it for docking the lens and the case. Kats

They differ by changing the where the location of the rectangular hole is with respect to the top and bottom edges. When you get the right wafers in the right spots and insert the right key, it should look like this pic. Note that the wafer farthest from the key is used simply as a retaining device for the cylinder to be held into the lock body. In other words... It should always be proud, even with a key inserted. Looks like this:

Differential link

Today I did try some adjustments like Patcon advised me, and I came to OK for the gap. Still need some work but I can’t do it better at the moment. The most effective thing of today’s work was took off the rubber seal of the cowl top, it gives some room to sit lower than before. I need an alternative thin rubber sealing for it, I am going to shop now at a local store with my blue Z. Kats

Tried to locate parts in the shop today. I found the correct dash. Some of the rubber parts and some misc stuff. I also put some small rubber parts on. I predrilled these with a 0.140" bit first I might need to clarify, I installed the little rubber gas door bumpers I also installed the throttle boot, choke cable boot and heater hose grommets I also ran these under hot water to separate them. \ I have to figure out the best way to get the yellow goop off the lenses. What have other people used to reassemble the lens to the case? Once I get them clean, I will buff them and buy new trim pieces for the middle of the lens These are original JDM lights and they appear to have a black strip down the center. I am assuming this is paint and not integral to the lens?? It appears to be on the inside of the lens. Anyone know?

It's not a racing pic and it's no longer my car, but I love this pic from Steve Bonk.

So I worked on the differential brace some more. I finally got the 3/8" steel from the machine shop a couple of weeks ago. He gave it to me free because it took so long. The sides had some beveling to them so I had to do some clean up first I checked a little more and then let Cody MIG it up for me. He was gonna TIG it but the MIG was close by so we went that route n it Cody wasn't pleased with the welds because the feed was being a little erratic, probably because the wire was dirty. I will do a little clean up on it and make it black.Should be fine for what I'm trying to do. I can post up the CAD file for the plate if anyone is interested

I replaced my old choke cable with .055" music wire. It was a night and day difference in performance. It also gave me a nice and straight cable to connect my nozzle levers to.

Take it out and run it and see if temperature keeps climbing or if it just rises and levels out. Fill up the reservoir first so you can see if the level changes. Here's a question though - how can you be so precise on the temperature?

I think the mechanic is just guessing, but that is what most of us are doing. Educated guess work. It might fix it... But it's not going to fix your fouling on #4...

Another possible solution is to purchase a cable luber that clamps on to cables at the end and allows you to use any aerosol type lubrication tin (and the included straw). They are around $10 - $15 and are commonly used on motorcycles (and bicycles). Google it. Just used a Motion Pro one to do the choke cables the other day. Slick and quick. Make a great stocking stuffer!

Can't help you there as we didn't get the 280z.. but here's a brand new 280zx hood.. Hope it helps a little.. 😉 This was a brand new original nissan hood.. decoration in my livingroom !! Found a inside but don't know if this is that same new hood... sóóó many pictures i don't know when this one was made.. (off of a pc screen i think..)

Pretty smart idea, i like it!

So the temperature range is 170 to 180 ish, correct? When it drops back down to 170, is that as low as it goes? I think it is operating just fine. Wouldn’t start to worry unless it gets to 190 and doesn’t want to cool down.

Maybe they are going for a 2CV type top?

I wasn't making fun, I'd really like to see a brand new Nissan 1978 280Z hood.

A bad Toupee'!!

Hi , I tested fittings of a replica Z432-R bonnet which was duplicated from an original Z432-R bonnet. The fiberglass was selected to much the original one, I simply love to see the fiberglass cloth material and the way of structure inside. I did some adjustments but still in a half way of proper looking. A big issue is bending upwards at the left corner end. Maybe I heat it up and push it down? I am feeling it will not work for FRP. Maybe a garden stone on the corner to sit down little bit but how long will it need? A month? Or a year? Kats