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On my race car, I made a drop bracket for the Facet fuel pump so it would prime better when hot. That pump just moved the fuel into the swirl tank where another pump fed the engine. The drop bracket really helped on hot restarts after fuel stops.

I know where the very last 240Z is, but I'm not going to reveal its location, due to respect for the owner's privacy.

You don't need to spend big pesos on a new dome switch... 💸

Here's a '75 replace thread from @SoCalJim This is @Travel'n Man's thread on the fumes/smell. He has a 240. The whole google.com search... https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+vent+hose+removal+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&sxsrf=ALiCzsbephACSOLmhZkrhAbR85UYTWH6rw%3A1669149669613&ei=5TN9Y-WIJbO1qtsPkd-_uAQ&ved=0ahUKEwilj4mJ08L7AhWzmmoFHZHvD0cQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=280z+vent+hose+removal+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIHCAAQHhCiBDIHCAAQHhCiBDIFCAAQogQyBwgAEB4QogQyBQgAEKIEOggIABCiBBCwAzoKCAAQHhCiBBCwA0oECEEYAUoECEYYAFCtBljNDWCAGmgBcAB4AIABhgGIAf0GkgEDMi42mAEAoAEByAEFwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Well, new does not always mean good anymore. If you're using a clamp ammeter, can you measure the draw at each of the wires on the VR? Also, open up the VR to see if it's mechanical or solid state. If it's mechanical, it may be adjustable.

Way back in my teens (early 80's) I installed a "slalom" cam in my 240. Super strong from 4k and up but everything else sucked. I was always adjusting timing/carb/idle and never found the sweet spot. I finally pulled it out and went back stock. Lesson learned. As Jarvo said, if its got a hot cam, best of luck, as a lot of variables must be addressed to get it right.

Ironically, if you look in the EF section of the FSM, you'll find that the power to the fuel pump is cut during cranking. You don't say what carburetors you are using, but there should be enough fuel in the float bowls for starting.

Yeah, you need to disconnect the battery negative before you play with the fuse box. On the other hand, cleaning the fuse box may have removed the blockage that was preventing the light from coming on.

Progress! with a few snags… Here’s the engine on the hoist, ready to go. This is my engine builder, A.K.A. my dad, former sprint car crew, retired Air Force jet mechanic and crew chief, current fox-body mustang hot rodder, and now L-Series engine tuner. The engine went in like butter… after we realized we had two left side mounts on it and swapped the right side for the correct mount. That only wasted two hours. 👆🏻 This is my BEAUTIFUL, GORGEOUS, MESMERIZING left-hand drive header from Spirit Garage, courtesy of Jesse Streeter of Streeter Corporation. …and here it is in place. No steering clearance issues so far. The back of the engine is sitting high because the transmission isn’t ready and I have it in a support. —- Okay, so the snags… 1. There are many more studs than there are holes in the header. Eight to be exact. I’m not sure what I am supposed to do with those. Is there a part that I am forgetting that these studs would clamp down onto? I looked at the L24 exhaust manifold and it just has eight more bosses to use those studs. I looked at the headers made by others and they don’t have them. I don’t understand how you get a good seal without something using those. I’ve dug around online but haven’t seen this mentioned anywhere. Am I spacing something obvious? 2. I forgot to buy a clutch release sleeve for the transmission and the one in my 4-speed is too long. I’m not worried about figuring out which one fits and getting one (I think it’s one of the 225mm ones), but it does mean the transmission is either not going in this week or I’ll have to put it in temporarily until I have the sleeve. 3. The bottoms of my N36 intake manifolds are hitting the headers. The red circles in the photograph below show where I have contact. I am considering filing them until they have enough clearance, but I’m not sure what is in that spot and how thick that material is. I don’t want to puncture the water channel in there, or the air channel for that matter. I also have a set of E42 manifolds that I could use if these won’t work, but I don’t think they will have any better clearance from what I can tell so far.

Well, I got the dome light working with both doors! I can't give an exact answer on what needed fixing, except that I cleaned every ground possible, and it still wasn't working. Then I blew the dome light fuse when scrubbing the fuse block. Replaced the fuse and came back about 30mn later and it was working. So mission accomplished, but still lost as to what was wrong. The fuse was fine until the moment it blew (tested it multiple times for continuity, also the metal band was visibly fine). Thank you to all above who took the stab in the dark to help me. I appreciate any and all advice.

Nice build page. Love the wallpaper in your garage.

Nice work on your site. The visuals are great. Enjoyed the tech upgrade tips. Just one nit to pick. The '70 Z weighed about 50 pounds more than the '70 911, not less.

Godzilla Race Works. They are in Fort Worth.

It was for the helper electric fuel pump. If you don't want it, I'll buy it from you for $40+shipping. If you're going to use an electric fuel pump, then keep it.

Negative on the plastic lens, i had to find mine online, i bought one ( and it was broken) They tend to deteriorate in the heat, so you might be better off getting a (newer one) I want to refurbish this one, its a bit yellowed like old video game consoles. The price on these parts has been ~30 for just the plastic lens and $100 for the whole assembly... Might be able to 3d print them if i can find a white transparent ABS material.