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The dealer had already installed the BRE 1st generation "Spook" and rear spoiler on my car when I found it on the showroom floor. Years later the Spook was ripped off by some high water but I retrieved it and later gave it a full restoration.

I like it, but I think I'd like to see a rear-quarter view before I make up my mind.

Go to the BRE site and check out the pics from the 1970 season, you'll find the original style - used only that year. Carl Beck has speculated that mine may be the last one surviving. I reached out to Randy Jaffe while he was building the tribute car and asked if I was at risk of a midnight raid to confiscate my gen-1. He forwarded my pic to Peter Brock who came back with a comment that yes - this was the original, designed to "cool the brakes" per SCCA regs. Everyone else began to copy it and the rules changed so he modified the design to be more efficient.

Some more period BRE ads featuring their goodies! Also a BRE key ring celebrating the SCCA National championship wins in 1971 and 1972, if anyone has a spare I'm looking for one!

Yep, Toyota South is who I ordered them from. I had H4 lamps in several of my sports cars over the years. I recall my first set was made by Cibie'. Anxious to see the lighting pattern that the Kiotos cast.

I found an inexpensive 600mA analog ammeter on Amazon. I should get it tomorrow. @Captain Obvious, you make it difficult to ignore these intellectual experiments.

I think Ger Brock were one of many shops that raced and prepared Z cars back in the day. I don't think they were associated with Peter Brock of BRE but seem to have their products in their catalog. If they were catering for the 280Z they were probably in business after Peter had left BRE/Interpart and gone hang gliding.

In a later catalog they list BRE cams as well as G/B cams. Maybe just a local parts supplier. With a coincidental name then. One catalog came with my car from a town near Portland, The later catalog came in a swap meet purchase.

How about an oscilloscope for voltage readings at the resistor? I blew up my last analog ammeter many years ago. Even replacing the fuse in it didn't bring it back to life, and SWMBO would not be happy if I went out and got the Simpson meter I have wanted for a long time. (Maybe I could get away with it after she's been working for a while. Shh!)

Nice job of fixing your spoiler, Jim. Mine broke when I hit a snow drift and split from side to side. I was an Air Force aircraft maintenance officer at the time and took it to the shop where we fixed the fiberglass nose radomes on C-130s. The guys got it back to looking like new and painted it with flat black aircraft radome paint that it still wears almost 50 years later.

Here's a copy of the BRE catalog from March 1971 before Interpart was set up. BRE Z parts catalog 3_71.pdf

Seems Obvious. There. It had to be said.

Should this be in Knowledge Base/Electrical?

Here's a pic of one of the gauges. You can see the two different heating coils wrapped around two different "U" shaped bimetallic strips. Interesting to note that internets research indicates that "U" shape is part of the compensation as well. The concept is that the unheated side will compensate some for changes in ambient temperature. "They say" it doesn't get rid of all of the temperature based effects, but it helps some. Between that "U" shape and the compensation stage, the gauges seem to be really stable. So this is an example of the compensated gauge with the two stages: And here's a closer-upper pic of the compensation stage showing it's parts: The switch opens and closes to keep the temperature of the compensation strip at a constant temperature (ave). If you put a Voltmeter on the sender unit, you'll see that it isn't a steady voltage, but is instead a square wave.