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The problem with the lock is likely the soft pot metal cam on the back of the lock is worn and no longer turns the lever attached to it in a big enough arc. The solution is to remove the lock, precisely drill a small hole in the cam, mount the lever and put a short length of coat hanger or piano wire thru the hole, bend it around the lever. This restores the full motion of the lever when you turn the key. Not too difficult, search on... lock repair to find some threads with the details. Have done this a number of times. The other option is new locks from ZcarDepot. https://zcardepot.com/collections/interior/products/door-lock-cylinder-set-with-keys-77-78-280z?_pos=4&_sid=0d683f898&_ss=r

Not really; it looks like they changed the casting. It's also missing the eccentric on the nose of the cam that would run the fuel pump. Potentially dumb question: Why would you want to "downgrade" to a mechanical pump when you have all the bits for a LP carb-friendly electric pump all present and accounted for?

Please don't read this wrong. It is your car and you can do whatever you want to make yourself happy. IMO, that is a very nice, solid, unmolested example. Even with a "modified" driveline the car will not be very fast compared with a modern car. Why not go through the car and keep it all original? I have done the L28 with e31 head , turbos, and other variations in the past. Sure, it was fun, but I didnt really find them to be that much more fun than a stock 240. I just have an appreciation of the survivors, I guess because I am becoming one myself!

Huh. Makes you wonder why they couldn't do the same for the rear bumper...

Ghetto?? What are you talking about???

Yeah, I know. Photobucket sucks. Some of them have been reloaded in the second thread.

Nicely manicured toenails.

Haha! You like that? Here's another shot so you can get the full visual impact of that donut: But the important part is that even when fully inflated, it fits in the 77-78 spare tire well:

I put the reworked donut spare on and drove around a little bit. Nothing scrapes. Now don't get me wrong... The car feels terrible with that spare installed and the steering wheel doesn't even sit straight, but it would get me to the next exit in the event of a flat. And it looks so sexy!!

https://www.nissanusa.com/shopping-tools/build-price?models=nissan-z&modelYear=current-year&fbclid=IwAR3VhDgFxlqXCyDxa7czP5UL5ZPug_uOvxB9UUFeursKsFuBawUUdfZ67Bw I'll wait until they have the color I want. Two sources in Nissan said it is coming.

By the time I would buy an automatic Z the used prices will be much lower.

Coming along… Appreciate the support of all you guys. It has been the lifeline for this Z.

Here's a way not to worry about that fuse: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC017-Adapter-Socket-Battery/dp/B00G8WLX78/

It might fit the wheel, but a 70 series tire will have too large a diameter to fit in the spare tire well in the car.

Yeah, I found that wiki page as well and there's a lot of good info on there. But about your key blank and trying to use one of those titanium keys... Those TI keys are all for the double sided cut and there's no way they will fit your cylinder. Regardless which blank your lock uses, it's a single side cut and those TI blanks are for the newer double side cut. When they describe blanks, they look at the cross section profile from the part you hold in your fingers (they call it the "bow"). And if I modify your pic and flip it around so you are looking at that profile from the bow, it looks like this: And that still looks like an X1 / MZ12 or DA20 / D80K.to me.

You know what they say about assumptions...

This may not answer your question, but I thought the info on this page was interesting with regard to Datsun keys: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Keys

Yes! It is pretty amazing how easy it is to put in later Z parts into an early chassis. You will need to use an electric fuel pump, as the ZX motor has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump. the wiring for it is all there. Above the diff, toward the right side, look for a connector wrapped in blue tape. You get power for the pump there. Then behind the radio there is another connector wrapped in the same tape. Here I put in a jumper wire, so when the key is turned to the "on" position, the pump runs. If you use the SU carbs, make sure you get a fuel pump that only puts out around 3 PSI or you can flood the carbs. You will need round ports headers/manifold for the exhaust. As Yarb is hinting toward, make sure the drive train is good before you put it in.

All, Searched the archives but this may be new issue due to the supply chain limitations we all live in today. Need to rebuild my L28 and will use the components/cores (block and head) in the car now. Engine is NA ITB's. N42 block and N42 head, stock, zero previous head work or zero bore on the block. Every builder I've engaged on average is 6 months + to rebuild. A large portion of the timeframe is waiting for suppliers to deliver parts, pistons etc.. Would like to pre-purchase / acquire the internals prior to pulling the engine (car still runs), to cut down the rebuild timeframes. Understand bearing and other internal parts cannot be purchased until disassemble /assemble. Goal is 200+ HP (just dyno tuned 160hp, sad and tired engine )with this engine, what's good enough for my driving ability. What would you do to this stock platform? keeping the engine NA, N42 block and N42 head. Flat top pistons - What size, cast or forged? Head - Understand ton or work will go into the head, What size values or spring kit would your purchase? Cam - What size cam? running 45mm Kameari manifold and 45mm ITB's. Already installed and running, lighten flywheel, 6 into one header, 5 speed wide ratio, R200 3.9 differential, Haltech 750 ECU. Thank you for your input.

Not really sure what you're asking, but if it's "has anyone managed to fit an always inflated spare into a 77-78 Z?" then the answer is "Yes." https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55424-always-inflated-mini-donut-spare-for-7778/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61903-280z-space-saver-spare-tire-replacement/

You’re pretty observant. Yes, there was some mixing and matching to correct the previous ten years of thrashing the car had prior to my acquisition. I had a 280 chassis that gave up it’s core so the 71 could live.

I'm still around, mostly lurking. I no longer own my '72 240Z, and I've also since sold my '84 Ferrari 308. It's been a bumpy ride over the years, but I still poke around from time to time.

I harvested images of that Silvia too. What is notible is how the S30 and CSP wood changes colour over the years, the CSP especially is light in colour/shade (in link below) and then becomes darker through sun/heat/sweat/grease.. The CSP, as far as I am aware, only originally came in a light colour of wood, so this could affect what the original tree species was to start with, the same as with the S30..?. https://csp311.net/publicity-and-miscellaneous-media-広報およびその他のメディア/224-2/

The typical donut spares are fully inflated when not in use. Pull 'em out and slap 'em on. And that's what I have with mine. Assuming mine has been holding air properly since the last time I looked at it, it should be ready to use without having to inflate it when I pull it out. And with the stock brakes, that was an option with the space saver spare that I bought from the junkyard. Right out of the yard with no mods, it fit OK on the back over the rear drum, but wouldn't clear the front calipers. So if I had a flat on the front, I could have pulled a rear wheel first and then moved that rear to the front. But the last thing I want to do when changing a wheel in an emergency situation is to have to do it twice. Along the side of a highway... once is bad enough. So for me, it was worth the extra effort and piece of mind to move the space saver rubber over to a different wheel that would fit on either front or rear.