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I finally took the 240Z back out for an extended drive today. That's the first time for it in almost 12 years. We went to the Worship car meet. (Think of a more intimate version of Cars and Coffee.) @gwri8 decided to drive down and visit, too. Plenty of Z cars showed up. I missed getting a photo of one of the 280Zs, though. It was nice to drive the 240Z again. Who is that mysterious photobomber? 😉

Today i got an odd little NOS piece set in my mailbox. I found these turn signals a while ago in Germany. When i checked the part numbers, i realized the European Microfiches say it's a "West germany" Spec part. 1x Left side 26165-N3600 and 1x right side 26160-N3600. This made me even more curious, so i got them. I'm not sure why they're different. Must probably have been some local law or regulation (Similar to the french taillights), which required different blinkers. Here is a comparison of three different types. Left: West germany". It has a tilted rubber piece, for a more angled turn signal, and a long tail connecting cable. Center: Original ones that came on my 1972 swiss (european spec) cars, with straight rubber. Unfortunately the cable was cut, so i have no reference here. Right: Some asian Turn signal reproductions with a short tail cable and different connector and "straight" rubber. I wish i could find out the reason behind this. An odd and probably rare piece. Nice to have in my collection.

Love the iron cross rims on your Z!

What is the overall curved length from the end of the valve to the core tubing and what does the ID of the hose need to be? I've got an impressive bunch of original braided rubber hoses here at home with all sorts of molded curved sections to them. Might be we can match up a length and ID from a section of one of them.

For my never ending project, I swapped an MSA Type 2 spoiler for a Type 1 and installed a 240 bumper. Please let me know if your interested in the Type 2 spoiler.

Sorry, I discarded mine when I put new foam and upholstery on the seats in my 73. It's just for the seat belt buzzer. Unless you also have the sensor for the seat belt (and want to use 50 year old seat belts), it will just cause the buzzer to go off if you have a passenger. The sensor itself should be positioned near the middle of the seat to ensure it is pressed down when someone is sitting on it. If you use an ohmmeter, you can find the contact that is closed when the seat has an occupant.

I've seen those here in europe too, i think they're just terrebly ugly.. but to each his own! (the red and orange does not go in a strait line on the pic above, makes it even worse..)

Here is one that sold recently, looks like they can go for big money ....

Once I have a shape I will export a DXF file and have a piece of 3/8 steel plate torched out. Then weld it all up into a new transverse member

Could you find a molder 90 bend and snug it on to the core deep enough to fit? I imagine you can gain a couple mm of clearance by sticking the core “into” the bend rather than leaving it in the straight portion. It may inhibit flow a little but I don’t see it being a huge deal? In lieu of a flare tool, do you have access to soldering equipment like used for plumbing? Last thought would be something like a PETG fitting. I know they are used in computer for water cooling and no flares are needed, allowing you to trim down your pipe as needed