Leaderboard

Does this help?

I've been blamed for much worse so I'll gladly accept blame on this.

The price fluctuates a little, I paid $123 + $11 shipping and got it from jdmplanet on eBay...currently they are a few bucks more. Shipping was shockingly fast, ordered March 14, 2021 and received on March 23. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193849586296?hash=item2d2255f278:g:h9QAAOSwighZg0vC

Here's an ebay listing for one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192368847767?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 And a company in the US: https://conceptzperformance.com/nismo-high-flow-volume-fuel-pumpgeneral-purpose-13lmin-17010-a7601-universal_p_24080.php?quantity=1

FWIW here's the electric fuel pump I got straight from Japan.

It routes the large white/red wire through the fusebox.

It is a broken-off section of the electrical system's reverse encabulator mounting block.

Hello fellow Houston Texas area Z owners. I have cleared out my storage unit and I will be liquidating some of my excess Z and roadster parts. Keeping what I deem critical. I have a recently rebuilt type B 4 speed with about 2000 miles on it. I have a 1971 Z orange airbox I have a polished manifold for SU's I have a like new Cannon manifold for some Webers that I ran for a while and looks good. Have a 1971 Z radiator in good shape as well. Have many sets of spark plug wires and other odds and ins as well. I have a couple of distributers and ballast resisters. If any Houston area Z owners are in need of anything, Mostly engine related, but do not hesitate to hit me up. I also have the original engine/transmission from my 1971 Z that was in perfect working order when I pulled it. Those I may not sell. As I want them to go with the car. But anything is possible 🙂

I got the turn signals working. Thank you everyone for your help! It turns out that even though I had 12v at the green wire coming into the flasher maybe it wasn’t a “strong” 12v. I connected a new 12v lead to the flasher (as a test) and the turn signals work now.

Focus on my Zs again. I lived and breathed them for 10 years then things changed and I lost my "inspiration".

I would just store it, keep the cam lobes oiled, keep cylinders oiled, and rotate it periodically.

Just my opinion but....I think that your numbers matching engine will contribute more value to the selling price of your car (when you sell some day) than it will ever bring by selling it separately.

Fantastic.

Ya, you could run a jumper from battery to flasher - but you're bypassing the fuse. I wouldn't. I don't know anything about the electronic flashers but from it's description, I don't know why it wouldn't work. Other people use them. But, is there a specific way they have to be wired? Is one pin dedicated to voltage INPUT and one to voltage OUT? NM, I just saw that the "X" terminal is for the GREEN wire and the "L" is for the WHITE wire... Look, the hazards work, yes? Then the issue is somewhere between the fuse and where the turn signal switch connects to the dash harness. Stop wondering about everything else. You need a dual filament bulb in the 240Z Park/Turn Signal housing. It has to be a dual purpose bulb. (If it works with the hazard switch, it'll work with the turn signal switch)

@Patcon they are incandescent - tried two different aftermarket ones (a single filament model and a dual filament). I don’t think the dual filament one is a 1157 bulb like original/OEM though.

You're inspiring me to do something. Glad to hear from you! Cliff

Wally-your new alternator looks to be the same design as the one I have, from ZCarDepot. I feel compelled to reiterate this: I also connected the + wire of the car to the ground of the alternator. Luckily, your fusible link worked; on mine, the wire maintained integrity, and burned off the insulation. The rub there: I think it's highly likely I have a short on the +wire to alternator that is hidden in the wire wrap. This seems to be a pretty serious safety hazard, especially if a fusible link doesn't blow. If I were you, knowing you definitely put those wires under a similar duress I put mine under, I'd check the sheathing on your alternator + and ground wires, at least with a DVM. (can anyone report back what an ideal impedance reading would be from battery harness + to alternator wire ground?)

I have drawers full of grommets, turn signals, turn stalks, and other parts. I have three distributers. One Original, and one has a pertronix unit in it I think. I will have to get the numbers on them if you like.

The way I modeled this was based off my own interpretation and I chose to place the flange on top to give more surface area support for the insulator as well as to let the bump stop seat all the way into the spring perch as it does in the stock setup. Given that the stock struts do not have a flange and are fine with the contact area they have I can see why the koni engineers would say either way is fine. I chose mostly based off the way the bump stop seats but if you have a different bump stop the results may vary. I've had these installed for a few months now and have done a fair bit of driving and they have been wonderful!