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Thanks for the reply. Let me give you a little more information. I have a 1983 280zx that I purchased as a "reliability problem" about 7 weeks ago. I have a 1981 280zx that I have had for several years.......and in the post I talk about the car that was under water in a local junk yard, 3 different cars. My 1983 car was never in a "flood". By "flooded so bad it won't start" I meant that the engine was flooded with fuel to the point it would not run. I have the car running great now. While I was trying to figure out my issue I read a lot of posts on 3 different Z car forums. I gained so much information and am grateful to all that post on these sites. One thing that I did notice thou is that a high percentage of people who post their issues on the sites don't come back and post the final resolution to their problems. It's like reading a book and the last 2 chapters are missing. With my post I figured that I would let everyone know what my issue was, how I went around trying to diagnose and fix the problem and the final chapter on what I did to finally get the car to run. My post is a "start to finish" problem solved post. I can see where you might think it was in water flooded, I did get a chuckle out of that... and I actually did pull the entire engine fuel injection harness out of the car and unwrap it and check every inch for bad wires! It's not as hard as you might think.

Been a while since I have posted here. Lot of health issues. I do visit it often though. I have been wanting to get rid of the fiberglass cowl induction hood on my 77 280 for quite some time now. Don't know what ever happened to my original one. But, I did find a correct one for my Z. It didn't come with the hood hinges or tension springs. I did however locate a set of hinges with the springs later. I didn't know until just recently that there are 2 different sets of hinges. Looks like they changed mid year, 74.5-78. Anyone know how to tell the difference between the 2 and why the change? Or should I not be concerned about it.

I guess any type of short steel would work, re-bar or a socket extension comes to mind. The female end would fit on the fin then tap it off with a hammer.

HS-30H - "There's a sucker born every minute". It was true then and it's true now. If you make enough noise - for a long enough period of time - people (suckers) will eventually start to listen.

Sorry I can't help with the question but I sure am glad you're okay and checking in on us Bob! Cliif

It helps to share some of the surprises, especially when people join here because they want to "wake up" an old Z. On the other hand, I haven't been documenting some things like the oil leaks from dried up seals...

FYI There is a record line of container ships off the west coast. Supply chain disruption is not likely to get better before the spring. No excuse for not communicating though

Thank you! It's a start....

A flat head screwdriver and a hammer worked for me. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

As I was thinking about this a bunch of memories passed through my head in voice over type thoughts. "Is this one exhaust or this one?" Do they just alternate from here? Exhaust - intake - exhaust - intake... No? Crap. The engine's tilted. Up is not Up". Is this still hot? Should I start over? It was perfect before I tightened the lock nut, now it's too tight. Does it matter if it's hard to get the feeler gauge in? Am I scratching the cam lobe with the feeler gauge? Where's my small sledge, I don't want to bleed anymore. #1 is a B___h! I should have wiped that oil off the edge before it dripped down the side of the engine. Wow, I really wacked something when the nut came loose. Hope nothing got bent. I could have just taken my time setting them cold, then rechecked them when they're hot. And that's just in the first hour.

Here's a good read... And my setup with the tools and the "crossing them off" board I put under the passenger's wiper blade.