Leaderboard

Okay. Got the four main lines in The tunnel tonight. I had to mess with these Classic Tube lines quite a bit to get them in, and I’m a little unsure about how they are in the back, but I’ll leave the Dif out for now in case I need to mess with them more. the main issue is the vapor and main fuel lines are a bit long and the fuel line was missing a few bends in the middle for the trans mount support and had an extra two bends in the back, at least as compared to my old lines. whatever. They’re in. Now on to the rear brake lines.

I don't have one of those clocks and have never seen the insides of one before your pics. So my only source of info is your pictures. That said... The resistor is a 200 Ohm, 1 Watt resistor. And the diode is a Zener diode, which is a little special compared to a normal diode. The important parameter of the diode would be it's "Zener voltage", and I cannot tell what that voltage is simply from the pictures. However, from the way it's used in the circuit, I would expect that it's zener voltage is between 5 Volts and 8 Volts. I doubt there is anything wrong with either of those components, but if you really really want to know more about the Zener, I can talk you through how to measure the voltage in question. And from what I've seen, you do a great job. Sometimes, you will go too far over your skis. Hopefully it's recoverable.

Kinda reminds me of Goldilocks and the three bears.. This porridge is too hot!" she exclaimed. So, she tasted the porridge from the second bowl. "This porridge is too cold," she said. So, she tasted the last bowl of porridge. "Ahhh, this porridge is just right," she said happily and she ate it all up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suspect it's just designed too close to the hairy edge of working (or not working). The one or two prototypes probably worked great on the bench, but now that there are more of them out in the field, the parts tolerances variability and operating environment are having unforeseen results. Not that I've ever had that happen to me or anything........

These? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-1983-Datsun-280Z-or-NISSAN-ZX-Black-Aluminum-Rocker-Panel-Molding/254480686749?hash=item3b403b1e9d:g:EoMAAOSwwzhZUe3b

Your are talking about two different clocks. Before you replace any components you need to test the coils or you are wasting your time replacing components. With the circuit board installed power up the clock and watch the moving magnets on the clock wheel, it should move ever so slightly. This indicates the coils are good. If no movement then one or both coils are bad. The OEM clock components should be replaced with the exact component values or you will change the clock timing. Soldering around the coil wires is very tricky and I mean VERY tricky. You can destroy either coil by over heating.The wires are 2mm, coated and don't like to be re-soldered. Replace all the caps and the transistor. The second clock which you described is a kanto Seiki quartz. I have never seen an electrical component go bad on this mechanism, it's usually mechanical. The plastic gears have stripped teeth, worn nylon or the toroid magnet is broken or damaged. The nylon gears and toroid are not available. I have a mold and make my own gears and NO I do not sell the gears. Stripped gears are not the root cause, but the effect of the problem. Replacing gears is not the answer. Hope this helps

You made the mistake of calling them incandescent light bulbs, instead of variable luminosity hot filament synchronization components.

IMO $3,500 on the high side. I would try and buy it plus you may start a relationship with the neighbor? Neighbors are nice to have but keep at a distance. Friends that aren't really friends. I don't like mine but we speak. Boundaries!