Leaderboard

There was a LOT of cross talk about original engines not being reinstalled in the Z Store cars and that a lot of the cars didn't, therefore, have engine #s that matched the numbers on the engine compartment ID plates. When talking about those cars it's important to remember that there were, in reality, 3 iterations. The first batch reused a lot of interior soft trim as Distinctive Industries were not on board the program yet, neither were the Banzai Motorworks reproduction ID plates. Both companies were onboard for the second batch which allowed any convenient engine # to appear on the engine compartment ID plate as they left Banzai without #s. The third batch benefited from all of the DI soft trim and Banzai repro goodies. While I'll plead guilty to going through this # issue leaving out some detail I can say with convection that they bought 55 sets of everything putting, I feel, to rest the often quoted 200 unit target for the program. I also recall a conversation I had with one of the principals involved who told me that due to VERY POOR quality control many of the first batch of rebuilt engines had to revisit the re-builder causing delays, and some confusion, to that portion of the program. Finally I have to take my hat off to Pierre. He and his staff worked very hard to make the program work while under significant pressure and a tight budget.

You can't go wrong in replacing the weak original Nissan injector connection plugs. But the odds are that that's not the cause of your "skip". Good luck.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64113-weakness-revealed-in-the-gmb-and-spectra-mechanic-fuel-pumps/

Speedo "bounce" is usually due to a lack of lubrication. It has nothing to do with the coil. After I lubed my speedo cable the "bounce" went away. Cheers, Mike

Here is a topic on injectors

BAT is where it will probably eventually end up. Right now we are focusing on making sure it looks EXACTLY like it did when sitting in the dealer's showroom. That will hopefully be completed in time for ZCON. This is mostly just detailed cleaning, other than the mechanical work cleaning brake and gas lines and getting the engine running.

The Scallop hubcaps were on the 76 Z's. Here is an ad for 1976. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2015/12/29/the-personalized-datsun-1976-280-z-brochure

While the doors are off, I finished prepping the insides for spray on sound dampening material. I had some sitting in storage for something like 15 years? And I was shocked to open it up and see it was still usable. I don't think this stuff is sold anymore under this name, but I suspect it is the same as the Spectrum product I bought from Second Skin in this second pic. We'll find out soon enough as I spray more of the inner panels of the car. Pictures showing inside of the doors before spraying the sound deadener. I sandblasted a few spots I could reach to get rid of surface rust. Interestingly, there is bare metal that didn't even have full surface rust inside the door: After spraying the sound deadener. When the sound deadener is fully applied to the car and the truck bed liner underneath, it will have substantial reduction in Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH) compared to stock. The doors will have a very different sound and feel than stock ones. I think it will be quite a noticeable improvement around the whole car.

Took her out for a quick photoshoot. Car is running very nice. Still waiting for a dash so the interior is incomplete, but otherwise she is just about finished.

went to the JY today (yea no cover charge!) and found a 1991 Toyota, 4 door sedan, the tank sending unit was easy to get at so I pulled it and found the same style thermistor but it was inside a plastic holding tank (like 2 oz size). removed it and ran some test. It was pretty grody so I sprayed some electronics cleaner in it but could not get the light to go out unless I sprayed the cleaner direction into the tiny holes. I used some fine wire to open them up but I think there is still junk inside that is causing issues with getting the fluid in and out. I ended up opening two holes (top and bottom) to about 1/16" with a drill, now it works reliably. will post up the video in a few. I wanted to see if warm fluid (in my case water since I don't want to smell up the house with gas) would keep it from coming on so I used hot tap water, about 110f.

I won't be going. At 70 years old it just isn't safe.

The real question is if the spindle pins will slide out like the FSM shows. ?