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Thanks! Finally got the air cleaner back from the powdercoat shop. Turns out they were shut down for a week as one of the employees had COVID, thus the delay. Now just waiting for radiator decals and engine bay is complete.

So here's a preliminary report. I tried out the stock bulb (#6 on my list) once again just to have a baseline value. It has a resistance of 3.8 ohms. As had happened before, the light went brightly on after running the car for 25 minutes. Easily seen with the bulb inside the housing even under bright sunlight. Next I tried bulb # 5 which has a resistance of 6.3 ohms. After 25 minutes of running the engine that bulb illuminated very faintly, very hard to detect in daylight and subtly seen in the dark car. This one could work the way @Dave WM suggested which is as a monitor that the system is operational when lit dimly and as a low fuel warning when lit brightly. However, I've yet to run the tank down to empty. Next was bulb # 4 with a resistance of 11.4 ohms. It also illuminated after 25 minutes or so but the glow of the filament is so faint that it can only be seen directly when the bulb is out of the housing. Once inside the housing it's invisible in daylight and almost undetectable inside a dark cabin. If this bulb (as predicted) will glow brighter once the fuel level falls below the thermistor, this would would work well as intended. With this trend, one could extrapolate that the remaining bulbs could illuminate even more dimly (directly proportional to the increasing resistance values) at the 25 minute mark as well but might be a bit dim even when the fuel level drops below the thermistor, rendering the low fuel warning function ineffective. Again, I will finish reporting once I run my tank empty but seemingly there are 2 alternatives so far I could live with ?.

There is nothing more annoying than browsing a thread and seeing that someone else had a similar issue, and never finished off the thread.

They're not American Racing Vector. I have a set. I believe all the Vectors were ten spoke.

Ladies and gentlemen, please sit down as I'm so ecstatic to share the news. I swapped the black and white connectors places for the main and fuel relays. White on left/top and black on the bottom/right. the kicker here is that common sense, in the USA, we're driving from the right side of the street. No one need to tell us. We intuitively just know that without paying any attention. So, as you've seen my previous posts about battery terminals and everyone is saying fusible link need to be on the positive side. Long story short, we commonly known that red color represent hot/positive and black is for cold/negative at least for battery. Guess what, for whatever reason, the previous owner either replace or got a spare one ... and swap it around. Black is positive and red is negative. I swapped the black and connects to the positive terminal and the starter and red to the engine block from the negative terminal. Took 2 cranks and she fires up right away. Boy, what a sensation I tell you. Better than a cold beer after working under the sun till your lips crack. Better !!!!. I've been working on this for 3 years and I had this car worked before. It probably too long ago and memory play tricks on me as I'm near the finish line. Plus the relay is a real killer as well as @Captain Obvious stated, perhaps try swap it and see. Well, swapping battery terminals and relays did the trick. I'm not out of the wood yet ? The idle is so violent. as soon as see starts, she climb to 2500-3000 RPM and fluctuate repeatedly. Like some one keep pressing/releasing the gas pedal. Any ideas I should look at is much appreciated. Thanks again for all of you helping me and continue so. Much appreciated. regards,

Looks great Mart, I will see it in person later on. I always wax and do the chrome once a year also, but didn't have the chance to do it this year so far, weather has not been steady. But w'll see.. I like the 280ZX.. it's got that's 80's feel and look to it.

Edwin Hall 1879! I HAD to google that.

Thought I'd show a couple of pics of my NOS "pan".... Haven't seen any differences in the 70-73 splash pans.... David