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11/23/2019 back from paint jail Left on 3/4/2019 for a 4 week paint job... We have gone around a couple of times to get him moving on it again. He is finally starting to work on a few weeks ago. He has some doors partially assembled and on the car and it's at the trim shop for a headliner currently I told him he needed to get going and finish it or I would pay him for what he's in the car and keep it for myself. Tired of it taking up premium space around the shop! He's really very close and could have the car running in just a few weeks if he got serious about it

Is the clutch hydraulic fluid full? Check the simple stuff first. Get under the car an see if the clutch slave cylinder is moving and releasing correctly. If not, you may just have a problem in the slave cylinder or hose between master cylinder and slave. You might even have a bad clutch master cylinder. A failure in the clutch hydraulic system is more likely than failure of the actual clutch or the throwout assembly.

Turns out the NA 300zx crossmember doesn't work ? I thought I checked the part numbers and they were the same with NA 300 and a ZR. I have found a full ZR drivetrain in Japan that I am trying to buy though and then will have my guys there strip all the parts I want off and trash the engine/trans etc. We did install all of the accessories and only the starter is left. It looks so good! Coffee table worthy.

Bath time

So I have been working on rebuilding some cv halfshafts that I have with an CLSD differential This is the second one with the bands cut. One of the shafts, the boots were split and I can't imagine the grease was supposed to be tan. Normally that is an indication of water but maybe the factory grease was tan. You need to mark the one end (outer end) that can be disassembled. Supposedly the inner end is not disassemblable. So I made small marks and also marked some blue tape for indexing Then you drive the cap off the end Then remove the snap ring and use the puller There is a clip on the inboard side too I could not find a way to disassemble this end So the inner boots are NLA at Nissan and I could not locate them any where else. Dorman makes a "Uni-boot" that has multiple applications and needs to be trimmed to fit. Also the inner ones are light grey. I just couldn't do that! So I found outer boots on Rockauto that match the factory boots pretty good. For the inner boot, I found that generic boots were available on Ebay if you know how to search for the right size. So I found some boots that looked correct. The right size, the right number of ribs, but surprise! They have three nubs molded on the inside, I was not expecting So I got the die grinder and removed them Here is the first shaft next to the next one

That door is definitely for 77-78 280, 2 seater. Definitely not 2+2, which is MUCH longer overall. The earlier doors are totally different internally, latches etc, as is the window frame, there is no way this door could have an earlier window frame, they don’t mount the same way. This door appears correct for your 78. This does not help you much as to why this door does not fit your car. Perhaps we need to see the door on, so we can see exactly how far out it is, how and where.

I took the 260Z on a local "Maskparade" tour. I had the only old Japanese car out there, and it did draw some attention before the tour started. However, many more people came by after we were done. It was fun to get it out on the roads, and it drove so well.

Hey everyone, just a follow-up to this thread and some photos of the end result. I made some brackets that hold two air filters, a 1.75" from K&N (I found them on sale at MSA) and the standard 3.25" filter kit from Redline. Without the bracket, there was just over .5 inches of clearance, but with the additional filter bump there is now over 2". I got it assembled yesterday, and the car definitely breathes better, especially at higher RPMs. The last dyno test showed the airbox I was using was reducing the overall horsepower by about 10 (even when it was sucking in hot air from a non-moving car), and while I didn't put it on a dyno yesterday, I think these filters have almost the same result as running wide open. Also, I noticed that it goes more lean now at the higher RPM, so I can probably increase the main jet a bit. Seems to support the idea that it wasn't getting enough air before. Incidentally, there wouldn't have been room for larger K&N filters as the master cylinder was in the way. Photos attached.