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Klassic Fab has been manufacturing quality VW Bus floor replacements for years and has recently started manufacturing floor pans and frame rails, etc for 240Zs and for other vintage Japanese cars. Here's their website: https://kfvintagejdm.com/ Pictures courtesy of The 240z Guild.

Thanks Steve , the pictures were taken almost ten years ago, time flies . The caps which you are thinking about to obtain look original , I hope you will have originals for your car . By the way , I couldn’t stop myself driving with the old Super speed radial -20 , but not with the early less tab ( the less tab caps were given from Mr. Matsuo , so display only! ) One day I had a flat tyre one of the rear tyre ! That was a few months after I drove the tyre .I think ARMOR ALL was not good for the old rubber . I was thinking it was good for keeping the surface in nice condition and protect the rubber from the sun shine. But the results was not what I expected, maybe the liquid sink into the rubber ‘s tiny tiny cracks then it makes the rubber break apart easily. If I had not put ARMOR ALL on the tyre I would have a little more longer life on the old tyre , would not have I ? Anyway no one seems to ride on a 40 years old tyre , so I don’t need to think about it . I never ever do it again !! Kats

So I guess this is the end to this thread, the 280 is in Dubai now and up for sale at Tomini Classics. I would love to know what they are asking for it but it says the price is TBA, I guess they want you in the showroom before they hit you with it. https://www.tominiclassics.com/featcar/datsun-280z/

Wow. Very nice! Should have had this five years ago. Now they need to make the proper rear valance.

I sure hope VP Pence gets this Corona virus under control before ZCON.

Hi Mark, I'm stealing the powdercoat pics for my roadster rebuild album... - Rob K.

Nice company:

Armorall has silicone in it. Don't use silicone on rubber! The caps look great to me. They have an inked number on them. I doubt someone would go to all the trouble for a set of repros? How much are these things worth?

Are they claimed to be original or reproductions? Perhaps ask for a higher resolution photo of this area and we can tell. The photos above are too small to see details.

Kats (and others), here is a picture of the SP/SR footrest for reference, this is a repro, but you get the idea.

Descriptions of how to replace those two seals are definitely an addition to the body of knowledge. Many people over the years have commented about the puddle of oil in the shifter hole. I've given bad advice about it in the past. @FastWoman I'm not sure she still has her car but she had the leaky seals way back when.

I agree. It would also be nice if KlassicFab made the rear inside hatch panel. I hear that Tabco's doesn't fit very well and doesn't look stock.

The basic difference is the ability to really tell what's going on with the charging system. For example, consider the following... You're driving along, and all of a sudden, your alternator goes belly up. The voltmeter will still pretty much read the same thing because the battery is at full charge, but an ammeter would instantly start reading a negative charge condition (meaning that you're taking energy out of the battery instead of putting it in). Referring to the chart posted above in post number (nevermind, we don't have that feature anymore)... somewhere up above earlier in the thread, it shows that the battery voltage is only down to about 12.1 Volts by the time you have already taken half the total charge out of it. So with a voltmeter, it's possible that you wouldn't notice any problem until the battery has been drained down pretty far. But with an ammeter, it should never be on the "-" side of the gauge when the engine is running. If that ever happens, it's an indication of a potential problem. All that said.. .As SteveJ alluded to, it's just so much harder to install an ammeter in a system when compared to voltmeters. Voltmeters are hang on anywhere and are a snap to incorporate. And for that reason, the ammeter is almost extinct.

Hi Kats, Sorry to hear about he flat tyre. Yes, 40 year old tyres can certainly be risky to drive on, I'm kind of surprised that only one tyre went flat! I asked the seller of the D caps to send me a couple of overhead pictures of the backsides and I have attached. Do these look correct to you? Thanks, Steve

Dead battery?

Kats, thank you for your kind words. Heyitsrama, the diameter of the hoop/tubes are just over 19mm There is a photo of the feet removed. 7tooZ, the reproduction rubber foot grip I had CAD drawn from an original, the 3D printed in plastic. For me, the look was much more important than being in the right material. Now, most owners won't use their footrests as much as when originally fitted, as the cars are much more covetted. Your footrest hoop would have to be that diameter, is it? I sold restored footrest to a member here, maybe if he is looking, he can say what he think to my replacement foot grip. I am out of these foot grips, so if there was going to production run, I could look at a group buy. No, I don't know what the last lot cost, as I cancelled the order, but they still came to me, for free! Yes, I made them in two halves, otherwise how do you ge them on...

Thanks Kats, I knew about the home market steering wheels being shallower than the export market cars. I agree it was likely for leg room. But I couldn't really tell in the photos. :). I didn't know about the horn button changes. I knew that there was "blue" (non 432 engined S30Z's) and "red" which this car had, but I didn't know about the horn icon. As you know our export market cars just had "DATSUN" on them. I couldn't see the keys property, buy my early 240z (HS30-00150) has a "garage" position on the ignition switch. Still not sure what that does? Do you know? What is the difference between early and later dashboards in the home market? I know North American cars had the hazard switch moved about, but AU market cars didn't come with hazards and the dashboard is basically the same from 1970-73.

The fact that the car is in Canada means that a prospective local buyer may spend more here as there will be no importation costs or hassles. A local buyer will be hard pressed to find a good 240 for sale anywhere local. That being said, you're absolutely correct Zed, the car has definite flaws. They are at least being honest in showing them in the pics.

The sides don't match. The driver's side is sticking out, the passenger side is even. This car is a driver, not a looker, I think.

I think for water temp one side (Yel/Red wire) goes to +12v other side (Yel/Wht) goes to the temp sensor center post. The outside of the temp sensor is the engine block, which is chassis ground and goes back to the (-) side of the battery. Inside the sensor is a simple resistance that changes with heat. So- hook up the sender and gauge with some alligator test leads and a battery jumper cable. Suspend the (known good, they are cheap to replace) working sender in a old can with the post sticking out and upward. Boil some water on the stove or in your kettle. Check the meter reading. It should be low. Add a little hot water but don't cover the post with water, just the temp sensor body. The resistance in the sensor changes and the reading on the temp meter should go up. As it cools down the needle should fall. A good hot temp reading should be displayed- use a candy thermometer if you have one to see how the water temp compares to the reading you get on the gauge. That’s it. At the final pages of This 240Z Chassis Manual you can find the wiring diagrams. The link should work for a while. Very, very useful instructions if you’re tearing the dash apart. -Richard

This is my 1st upload on the new design, it's different. Thickness is 3/16".