Leaderboard

Attended a nice small car meet today.

This new listing, a '73 240Z, on BAT seems to have different style of hood, not previously discussed here. It has corner reinforcements without holes/with angled hood release handle. This '73 is a very nice original example that is going for strong money after one day, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-95/ Here's a pic of the hood. Edit, My mistake this hood is a #2 production as described by @kats in post #13. @Mike B's '72 has this same hood, post #12 of this topic from Aug '07

I'm having a machine shop do what is put forth by the Z doctor for my P79 head. I will be leaving the F54 stock except for new seals/water pump and oil pump etc. And of course headers and more exhaust. For around $400-500 it seems like a good easy way to get a bit more out of an otherwise stock L28 and remain as reliable(leaving the cam stock for original EFI computer). At least for me, as someone who doesn't have much experience building engines. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Great illustration Site.....and I spent hours in Roanoke with the Z Doctor. He built all of my P79 heads....he’s the one that originally came up with the set up. It tricks a P79/P90 into stock chain configuration with a 10:1 c/r. As far as advancing the cam sprocket 4 degrees to make up for an .080 cut without shims Capt., I think if that worked, it would have been done that way. I think Jeff G figured out some offset bushing for the cam sprocket that eliminated shims for his race car. I miss Doc!

I don't think slimming the head results in advanced timing. I believe removing material from the head results in retarded valve timing. I think about it this way... The distance between the crank and cam got smaller, but the length of chain between the two did not. So the cam will trail the crank by that additional length. Did you mean slimming or shimming?

Also here’s a video of my car running with the fpr hose cut and the pump off 03792E8C-1B58-43D2-B07E-DED329CDBFD1.MP4

I have not seen any measurements fro the pedal adjustment. Did you follow the procedure in the manual for adjusting the pedal and slave cylindrr rod? Don't assume. Do the checks and tick of the list. A blocked port in the master cylinder or insufficient pedal travel can cause a lot of hartache. Push the pedal to the floor and note where it touches. Measure from that point. I made some screenshots of the 72 FSM for the slave cylinder and the 77 FSM for the pedal adjustment. I find it a little clearer. Though it helped (me) to read it twice?.

I took a video and everything in the trans seemed to be working so I removed the O-ring that came with the switch and cleaned the bulb connections in the rear and now it works like it is supposed to. I'm honestly not sure why it wouldn't work before.

Get a friend and have them push the pedal while you watch the fork move. Use 1/4, 1/2, and all the way to see if pedal = fork movement. Don't assume that new aftermarket parts are good. Many of us have had reman parts fail right out of the box. Examine the clutch fork and the way it sits on the pivot carefully. You might have some other odd problem at the fork. People often get the fork seated incorrectly but usually figure it out right away. Diseazd, please stop chewing your toe nails. You might get appendicitis.

Installed a new throwout bearing on the transmission and powder coated the dust plate a nice satin black.

When you do the freeze plugs tap it in on one side only, you want it to pivot on the center, once you can get a pair of Visegrips on the lip pull it out. Set your pressure washer nozzle to the needle setting, all kinds of crap will come out and get everywhere so if you are going to keep the pistons, rods and crank in make sure they are sealed off. But it is just as easy to pull all that stuff and then you can clean them, check the measurements and inspect the bearing wear.

you did not say if the fuse link blows instantly regardless of if the head light switch is on or off. that would help.

Yep the headlight have a fuse wire, I have the 76 fsm on BE-11 is shows the circuit. I would start by seeing if there is a dead short at the fuse link terminal that leads to the combo switch. Try operating the combo switch (lights on and off repeatedly) and see what effect you have. If no effect disconnect the lead at the combo swich (fsm shows a single red) and see if that clears the short. You are just going to have to work thru it with a multimeter to find the issue. that is IF the circuit is blowing the correct OE fuse link.

those fuse links do not look factory. I am not sure but if they supply the head light circuit, then you may have a problem in the head light switch itself, but of course could be a short anywhere in the circuit. You are going to have to review the FSM and look at the section that covers that.

I had the reserve originally at $20k. If you were watching the auction, it hit $10k on Day 1 and then just sat at $10k until the last hour. Ramped up to $14k in 30 minutes and then sat until the last 10 minutes. Went from $14k to $17.5k in a blink and I lowered reserve to $17.5k. It then jumped to $19k.

My 07/70 has an early hood as well, No drain holes, no reinforced corners. And I am sure that it had a flat hood release, but I mixed up my parts when I was putting it back on which means zKars has it in his parts pile now.