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Unfortunately surfaces don't have to be flat to gather stuff in my shop. I tend to work with the "pile" theory of storage.......

Okay so here's an update for anyone that was curious. The car runs! The picture of where the spindle was sitting was when the spindle was aligned with the marks on the oil pump... Weird, but i installed the spindle where it was close to the 11:25 mark and then i moved the spark plug wires (15-36-24) so that the rotor was pointing to NUMBER 1 and it started right up. I will be adjusting the timing and carbs this weekend! Thanks for everyone's help.

Mark - I too Googled RC Automotive and went to Google maps https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&client=firefox-b-1&q=rc+automotive++ALEXANDRIA+VA&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=38846955,-76900636,4853&tbm=lcl&ved=2ahUKEwi-6aH7yvPeAhWDylkKHbvBDUoQtgN6BAgAEAQ&tbs=lrf:!2m1!1e2!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:2&rldoc=1#rlfi=hd:;si:;mv:!1m2!1d38.872400899999995!2d-76.8469954!2m2!1d38.821509299999995!2d-76.9542771;tbs:lrf:!2m1!1e2!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:2 and it showed a RC Automotive machine shop located NE of RC Automotive, turned out to be the one. He can supply the data on the cam as long as I can give him number that they etch onto the end of the cam. The numbers that I was able to get off the rear are not what he was looking for. He stated that they sometimes etched the number on the front of the cam (it is a arse #). He believes that it is most likely a "Super BL1" which he said was a mild street cam and the one he most commonly ground. Again, thank for helping out.

I am in the midst of blocking the whole car and doing the fine filler work. There is always another spot you missed. I am still waiting on my Australian help to arrive! I also had a problem spot on one side of my hood. My hood is a 25 year old after market hood so it has some issues. One was at the upper left corner, it turned in significantly and showed badly against the inspection door. So I added to the edge with the welder. It wouldn't looked so bad if I had stripped the primer back further Shaped it down A little short strand fiberglass to seal it up. It might need a touch of filler, but it is much straighter

I lifted these up some on 2x6's and built a top over Thanksgiving

BTW......Cotter pins were added later?

Is this anywhere near California Datsun, maybe?

That is correct, Dave Patton

HS30-H, the only way to get these details resolved is to go to the source. Peter is affable and accessible through his website, bre2.net. List a few of your questions in an email and request clarification. Approach the matter with respect and curiosity rather than confrontation and you might be surprised where it leads. And please share the results!

Haha!!! I feel better knowing it's not just me!

And I think both of you have seen my garage...

Not just your shop. Mine's like that too. And so is Granny's! And I had a vise just like yours. Loved it, and I ruined it. Broke it pressing ball joints into my Fiero control arms. Cracked the jaws right off the center tube. That's why I have a hydraulic press now. I've also got a replacement vise similar to the original one, and it's just OK. Sloppier than my first one.

What did you buy for a sewing machine? What are you using as a pencil on the fabric?

This week my challenge was to make new door trims for the 680g and I decided to give diamond stitched inserts a go.

I Kinda thought so, I will have to measure for the exact location and drill a new hole in a new patch. Good thing my son is in Paint & Body for a living.

Are you asking for specific, pin by pin, wire by wire differences? Confused by the fact there are high resolution diagrams for your 1978, and some that have been colorized. Are you using a 1977 diagram to diagnose and troubleshoot your 1978? I would not suggest doing that. To me, that's like working on the Sears Tower Building and requesting blue prints for the World Trade Center Buildings as they were in construction within a year of each other.

I love this thread, and am intending to keep the flat tops on my 1977-built, UK-model, 260Z when it is (eventually) restored. In respect of the front calipers, I have a pair of genuine NOS LH and RH ones, where the images below could be used as a reference for people completing stock restorations. They have a matt, grey, finish in stock form, with various green, blue, black and red paint spots daubed at various locations (see images). One of the calipers also has some white paint daubed on the front of the pad. The caliper bolts have black paint daubed on the bolt heads.

Yesterday, my car had an air conditioning compressor replacement. I found big noise from it , and realized the bottom of it was very dirty covered by oil stains. I think maybe the noise was coming from the clutch. The York compressor is R209 type which is big enough to supply cold air in a Z . Kats

Got one of the front calipers rebuilt (Before and After pic below, kind of), Funny thing, when you order front brake and rear brake shoes, you get 2 sets in each box. When you order a caliper rebuild kit, you only get a kit for one caliper. What's up with that? So, need to order another caliper rebuild kit. I will order those along with the new brake flex hose lines. I put the short brake line that is near the backing plate on. Those look pretty cool, so thought I would take a pic. Started cleaning up the fuel and brake lines. Will send those out to plate shortly. Taking the Brake drums and rotors to get turned tomorrow. Hopefully the brake drums will be OK. They have some deep grooves in them.

Well that sounds like somebody made a dumb decision

That might be enough to pay off one class at a second tier school. Unfortunately, the carbs are only "new in box" until they're installed. Then they're as used as any set you'd find at the local Pick-A-Part. Shelf item for bragging rights only. Dennis

Hi , two cars comparison. Both are 1972 model , and survivor, . They are not restored , but have had been well taken care of from original owners. As you guess and see both , the orange is nicer than the maroon . California climate? Maybe , but this maroon is keeping very good condition as spending its life in humid Japan .I realized we can keep our car like this if we take care of our car very well even in Asian countries. I think the difference came from “ history “ of each cars. The maroon had some scratches on the left hand front fender and door , and little bit under the left hand rear bumper , near the muffler. The orange did not have such injuries. This makes maroon looks inferior of its exterior condition to the orange, the repair job at that time ( 1973 and after ) was not good . But I like its history, then It makes me feel difficult to decide remain as it is , or paint it like new with whole new parts which I have stored. Also the orange still has complete carpet and jute set , even each one has a paper stamp of quality inspection. The maroon is missing two front jute set , all the others are remained with the car . Tools , wheels, hubcaps , and speakers , seats , these hard to keep things with cars are original. I can compare one by one , the one has spent its life in the US , and the other one has spent its life in Japan . Some parts are looked identical of its condition, but some parts are not the same , it is fun to guess what made these parts looked different. And both have a lot of receipts from the begging ! Kats

New valve cover gasket installed, then a run to Karl Strauss. A good Saturday!