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Another new reman alternator failed from advance auto today for me. I bought a reman a couple of years ago for my 240. As soon as I turned the key to on it popped the fuse, no gauges no nothing. Today I get another one for Mom's car, failed after installing July 2015. Asked them to test the new one, they rolled their eyes but I said this isn't like changing out a battery or light bulb TEST IT! please. 4 times the machine kicked a breaker/reset. They said the alternator was good that their machine was bad. But it worked fine failing the old one so I got a little upset and showed my arse a little bit. He carried it across the street to an AutoZone and had them test it, FAILED. Went to another advance across town and had one of theirs tested. Passed with all green OKs. Lesson i learned today, always have the new stuff tested before I leave the store. I'm joining the club of reman stuff sucks!

Send a OEM here and it will be right. maybe 80 bucks with shipping. Or look for shop near you. https://www.google.com/search?tbm=lcl&ei=9SGoW8fREcjEjwTfwY6wAg&q=finish+line+starter+and+alternator&oq=aternator+finish+line&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i8i13i30k1.36256.50053.0.52663.23.18.0.0.0.0.237.2255.0j13j2.15.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..8.15.2250...0i13k1j0i7i10i30k1j0i10k1j0i22i30k1j0i13i30k1.0.JZu76mLNbnI#rlfi=hd:;si:9729705535794175187;mv:!3m12!1m3!1d8187.067103482339!2d-82.98139474999999!3d42.45615055!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i133!2i267!4f13.1

Thanks to all you guys i made my task possible. I removed the old gasket, cleaned the surface with a knife and wd40 and sanded the surfaces with sand paper. After all this was done i installed the new gasket and reinstall the distributor.

Sounds like textbook fuel percolation.

zcardepot.com shows the dual reservoir to be 7/8" and the single at 15/16" where it goes into the booster. Maybe check and see if you can find more detail at rockauto.com or anywhere else. zcardepot doesn't show the hole diameter of the boosters. O'reilly's has the right MC for $35, non stocking 2 day deal. I just woke up and my eyes are still blurry, sorry. Good luck on your hunting. ?

I was just busy with a euro version.. here a pic for you.. E88 and E41 balance tube this is from a europe L24 Datsun 240z. The europe balancetube was without all those emission crap..

As promised, here are a few photos; they are all the same valve, the test mule. 1. Chuck the valve into a drill, hand tight; spin the valve and break out the Dremel tool 2. Remove only enough metal to clean away the markings 3. 80-grit cloth is next; use it until the grinding marks and casting pits are removed 80-grit surface, below. Don't go crazy near the margin. 4. Follow with 150-grit, 220-grit, etc., until you have the finish you want. I stopped at 600 on the port-side of the head, but took it to 2000 on the face (over kill but it was fun, and only six or seven minutes of polishing). 150 surface below 220 320 400; probably just fine 600 1000 1500 2000

It's true... It's a really great exercise for meditation. Matt was interested in some swirl-polished valves when we started, but we're also trying to keep expenses down. I know polishing needed to be done before I could get a swirl pattern, so that's where I started. As far as advantages are concerned; it's something I did on the drone engines I built. With no other mods to ports, testing proved those engines performed better with polished valves. But Matt is also correct in stating its part of a complete package: The bottom end mostly delivers strength and durability, while the top end develops the power. For Matt's engine, the ports will have the valve pockets cleaned and matched, the port entries and exists will match the manifolds (like most folks do), the head will have the stock three-angle valve work but held to tight specifications, and the chambers will be CC'd and polished. The valves are just a part of all that.

I am just planning ahead on the project and just thought it would be nice to have the factory original unit still in place. I am an assistant manager at a nation wide 5,000 plus store company and we do offer 1 year warranty remans, lifetime warranty remans, as well as new units on some applications. For the obvious reasons a new unit is not offered for the Z, but a lifetime reman is available. We changed suppliers for our reman electrical components about 2 years ago due to a high rate of failures. The new supplier has been much better quality but details are very vague about what actually gets replaced. Just thought it might be an interesting challenge to attempt but have no experience in rebuilding alternators. The commutator looks real nice, brushes still intact, bearings still free, but unit was covered in grime and the pulley pretty rusty. The last time this car was running according to the seller, as well as the inspection tag still on the window was 1996. 20 years of use and 20 years of sitting. Neither one a good option. Keep the helpful tips coming and I will continue to do some more research. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC. Thankful to the LORD for sparing us from the main fury of the hurricane and praying to the LORD for those who lost so much due to the storm.