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we're gonna need a bigger fridge

If you like it, buy it. Every car that any forum member owns here probably has 50 other members who wouldn't have bought it. Some members have never even driven their cars. Something for everybody here. Take a pocketful of cash over there and take it for a test drive.

Consider I am a Battle Tank mechanic working in 80 tonne war machines at about 140 decibels and you can understand how I appreciate a quiet ride....!

My tombstone washer is metal and so is the backing sleeve that goes over the pin that my bolt replaces. I think all these parts are brass. Didn't mention before, but I used MRO Solution #10 Blue in the newly tapped bolt hole to keep the bolt from backing out like the micro screw did. If my cable ever breaks I'll use your piano wire fix and again won't have to disassemble the choke lever housing from the console!

Really impressed with your CAD work! What I did, using your CAD image, was eliminate the items marked A here and tapped the hole marked B for the bolt I used to replace all A marked items. This allowed me to leave the housing attached to the console console and only remove the choke lever from the housing to tap the B hole. Since my car didn't have the throttle lever and I've replaced the radio with a RetroSound Bluetooth radio I repurposed the throttle lever slot for the antenna up/down rocker.

Joe - I installed new squeegee strips in the same manner as the fuzzy strips we recently covered: an even spread of pop rivets. Jim

I went through the same problem a couple of years ago and had to modify my choke lever assembly as well. On mine the cable broke as well as the "tombstone" shaped cable washer and some of the spacers were lost when it came apart. To fix it I replaced the choke cable wire with .055" music wire using the original sheath, got a plastic "tombstone" shaped cable washer from a '72 choke assembly and made a plastic washer/spacer to make up the extra space. Also had to modify the brass pin to suit the newer plastic cable washer, I was able to use the original M2 x 5mm screw that retains the brass pin. One of the more difficult issues was bending the music wire to fit the groove in the plastic cable washer. Here's a couple of pictures of my repair: I also documented my repair with 3D Cad

Alright here are the results. I had to assume 188cc/min at 12VDC so a 30 second flow should yield 94mL. We ran a couple of test, not much deviation between then data groups. The second video shows what the PSI at the rail was during the test as well as the quality of the return from the rail. I even mention it in the first video. The gas is not bad, it has some 102 octane in the tank, that is why it is orange.

Hold that thought, laminate it and post in on the refridgerator door, and refer back to it often. Dennis

No worries! I am just wondering how that black eye would look with that beard? You could of course claim you tripped and hit your face on the lathe BTW we're getting close, so no stupidity before Atlanta! Take care of that back!!!

wheee! is of course building a sound booth!

This is definitely the most encompassing way to describe Cliff The silver car looks good and the center console in the picture is very clean. It would be my first choice between these two cars. The dash might have cracks, but most Z's do. It might not though if that rug has been on there a long time. Seats are a really easy fix and cheap. Body and paint work is not easy or cheap and it is difficult to do at home. The front right fender on the silver car looks like a different color. So I would look for damage on the inside of the engine bay on the passenger side and the radiator support. the T-tops can leak but they add value to the car too. Mileage doesn't scare me too much on either of the cars as far as mechanicals go. The engines are very durable and so are the transmissions if they're not abused. What goes bad with lots of mileage are all the little parts: window regulators, switches, seat mechanisms, wiper motors, blower motors, etc I would be concerned about rust on the black car and the rear tail light panel will take a considerable amount of money to look right again. I wonder if there is crash damage under any of that, which necessitated the changes. I would be more interested in the silver one over the back one. For the cost of making the body right on the black one you can do a lot of mechanical work. Also the brake leak may not be obvious if the master is leaking into the booster As for buying a car out of Florida, you are better buying one from Texas, as long as you avoid the coast. You could also shop further West. The cars further West should have less rust. Some of the other aspects may be more sunburnt but a whole interior could be bought used for probably a $1,000, for that matter you could find a rust bucket from somewhere else and take anything off it to move to whatever car you find. The condensed version: Buy the best body and paint you can afford, all the other stuff is easier to over come. Paint jail is not and rust is a slow death waiting...

Build some low profile ramps, wide, out of wood and use them to get that 2" you need to get your bigger jack under there. Four fairly thin blocks of wood that you can stack in a corner. Throw them down, drive up on them, jack the car up and put them back in the corner. You don't need them when you drop the jack down. Just a thought. I bought a full size truck recently and it wasn't long before I built a wide platform from wood to stand on for engine work. It's the "down" side of trucks. I changed the oil yesterday with no jacks and no problems 'cause it's high. Then needed the wooden platform I built to stand on so I could refill it. And it's not one of those high risers, it's actually on the low side. Anyway, when you have extra wood laying around ideas come to mind.

If you're looking for sane people you're probably on the wrong forum, just sayin.....?

And you will again, soon.

So, I know it was Porsche, but what model? I've got a Boxster in the garage and I've already measured the seats. Boy... Would SWMBO sure be surprised if she went out one day and found her seats weren't in her car anymore!! PS - Sorry, OP for the thread jack. I think we're almost done.

I did take a shot of how my revised assembly of the choke lever parts. The bolt will replace the little brass bar, "micro" washer and "micro" screw.

I just got finished tweaking my new ZTherapy carbs today. Had I known the difference they would make, I would have ordered these two years ago. My car has always run rough and rich and I could never get the originals set right. The car runs so smooth now and has more power than it ever has. Not sure if others here on the site have had any issues or not but I am extremely pleased, they were well worth the cost to me.