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Roof skin replacement finished and car in epoxy primer. Progress will be much slower between now and the beginning of 2019 as I'm going to be out of the country for a couple of months, but before I go I'm planning to get the underside protected, and the interior and engine bay painted. I was planning on getting the BC Racing Coilovers installed but that may or may not happen before I go.

Boy oh boy is that not the truth! Our cars, plumbing and electrical at home plus a lot of girls I've met seem to be untouchable without more problems downstream. Gives another meaning to "you touch it, you bought it".

Old clutch slave decided to leak. It probably didn't like the nice new clean brake fluid:) NOS clutch slave, spring and hose going in today. I hope it this is the last thing that breaks for a while.

GOT IT IN! Thanks for all your help! Not nearly as bad as I thought. The soap and plastic cable trick really helped. Actually did it by myself!

He has a shop at his house with a few nice cars, one was a Datsun 510. The others were different brands and also nice

Now for the real work,

Huge props to @DamonR He helped me purchase the bumper and dropped it off at the UPS store. It should be here Friday, just in time for Cody's birthday. Thanks also to @Mark Marasfor the connection

Head is sold. Thanks.

That's the way it came to me as a New Old Stock NOS head, yes. I am expecting payment from someone who wants it. So, it is likely sold.

Whats up everyone, hoping someone can give me some more ideas. So my 72 240Z has a 5-speed, and when the car is off, I can shift into any gear easily and without any effort. When the car is on, I can barely shift into first, if at all. And when I am able to get it into gear, it takes a herculean effort to do so. Once I get moving, I can shift into other gears with relatively easy effort, getting easier as I upshift into higher gears. If I come to a stop and sit for a while (like at a light for example) it starts all over again and I can barely get into first gear. I had to turn the car off, shift into first, and then start the car. Reverse, is a resounding grind but usually will go into gear. I'm hoping that it is a clutch pedal height issue, but I have not ruled out a bad master or slave cylinder. When I tried to adjust the pedal height last weekend, I could not turn the nut on the master cylinder push rod (under the dash). It looked like there was plenty of multi-purpose grease on there and didnt look rusted together, but it did not want to move. Am I supposed to clamp down on the rod with some pliers first, and then adjust the nut to give more travel? (Should the nut go towards the front of the car, or towards the back???). When I checked the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, it was low. Topped it off and need to check it again to see if I have a leak. Things I have not done, but will be doing this weekend if I cant solve this with a pedal adjustment. 1) Bleed the clutch 2) check for leaking (again) 3) Order a new master and slave cylinder 4) Shoot myself. What am I not thinking of? The attached diagram shows the adjusting nut for the pedal adjustment...for some reason I thought there was supposed to be a lock nut as well? Or is that only with adjusting the withdrawal lever on the slave cylinder? Open to any and all suggestions. thanks, T

Hey, I just fixed this very same problem last night. Under the dash where the pedal connects to the clutch master is a rod that is threaded with a lock nut on it. If the nut comes loose, the rod can rotate and the travel of the pedal becomes limited. I am betting the car starts to move when the pedal is still very close to the floor.(?) Adjust the rod so that the free play is largely gone (when the car doesn't move when the clutch is let out to about a third of the pedal throw). I'd bet money on it! Leonard Number 1 in the pic above