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Got some rays.

What size grit are you using? I think my is 50-80 grit. Been on there for 34 yrs, it use to have a braided rope design on both edges, wore off decades ago. My wife says " It makes me feel claustrophobic just looking at you finger" I say "No honey, that's just me that makes you feel like that way"

I understand how those gastric "lap bands" work now. That ring has never been off and would not even if you tried. Congratulations!

Dry Ice is the answer. At my previous job they removed our underground gas tanks. After pumping out residual fuel they dug around with a track hoe, pulled them to the surface and started dumping dry ice into the access holes . Probably about 20 Gals. of dry ice in each tank. The crew waited until there was CO2 vapor coming from the hole in the top of the tank. Then, to my total surprise, one of the crew stepped up to the end of the tank with an oxy-acetylene torch and started cutting up the tank into manageable pieces. As I peeked around the end of the building I was shocked that there was no explosion. Later on I talked to the crew. They said they've never had a problem using dry ice.

There just happens to be quite a few in your area, a whole club (gang) of them. The Northwest Arkansas Z Car Club. I've met them and all of them are Nice folks. I think they all have matching leather jackets and have Datsun tatoo's.......wait maybe that was something else.... Jim1 and Jim2 will probably chime in soon.

I believe you could check the seats with a magnet...

Funny you should mention that, I guess the metal I was blasting was colder than the air temp because every piece I pulled out of the cabinet had a thin layer of ice on it.

What paint are you using. SStage or 2Stage, solid color or metal flake? The more coats you stack then the more likely you will have problems at this joint. If you are doing a solid paint then there is no real harm in painting the pieces separately, as long as they get the same amount of coats and reasonably the same coating thickness. If you are doing a metallic then I recommend painting the whole car assembled. It makes it less likely to "tiger stripe" and it means the flake will lay similarly from panel to panel. If you were to paint the sugar scoops off the car with metallic and the flake doesn't lay the same, then they could appear to be different colors. Also when you paint the parts separately you are using a different portion of the paint in the cup on adjacent parts. If you don't keep the gun agitated enough the mix will be a little different from the top of the cup to the bottom, which will throw the color off. You could also loosen the sugar scoop bolts as much as possible and space them off the fenders so the paint can shoot down between the parts for a little better coverage...

Got tired of waiting for it to warm up and just filled the hopper from a 5 gal. bucket, I also added the air line and it is absolutely needed. Glass beads are a lot smaller than I thought, same consistency as fine sugar. Most of the blasting was done with 60psi air, approx 8 gal water and 500 ml of glass beads, each piece was given about a minute of blasting time. The jack stand is about 50yrs old, the header is stainless steel and has been in use for 17yrs, the plum bob is very hard old brass, I thought it would clean up much better than it did, the last is rusty common steel. I also did some galvanized fittings and the blasting did nothing to the zinc, but it removes anodizing from aluminum in a flash.

Update : The alternator gods have finally smiled on me today! After much troubleshooting, I decided to verify with the manufacturer the alternator part number and sure enough, the alternator sent to me was the externally regulated one instead of the later internal model. ZcarDepot had put their wrong internal stock number on the box. They agreed to send me a correct replacement unit which arrived today. Installed the new alternator, unplugged the external regulator & jumpered pins 1-5 2-3 on the harness connector ..... no charge output. More vom troubleshooting and after jumpering pins 2-5 only ..... voila ... charge voltage output. Pin 5 is the white black wire going to the alternator L connection, pin 2 is the white red wire on the alternator output battery connection. Ordered a plastic cap to weatherproof my jumper plug but was shipping delayed till Monday. Problem appears to be solved.

This week I have got myself some extra valves to replace the dodgy ones I had previously, so I get them lapped to fit and then move on to more body work.