Leaderboard

Please see link below for dash without the frame as shipped. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fpeHJMSxllKZS9SDgakx7-WHuq0dtbdZ

A couple of years ago we had a discussion about softening old rubber. Someone (I think it was 240260280) came up with a formula that softens and keeps the rubber soft after the solvent has evaporated. The formula was 1 pt. xylene and 2 ozs. of wintergreen oil. I mixed some up and soaked some old cracked, crusty hood bumpers for 24 hours. I tried flexing one as soon as it came out of the mix. It was nice and soft but crumbled when it was flexed. I waited 24 hours for some of the solvent to evaporate from the rubber and tried the flex test again. The results were much better. No crumble and a lot more flexibility. I found wintergreen oil to be very expensive however. In my notes on the subject there is a reference to "Thor Tire Prep #12". As I recall it is a tire conditioner (softener) used for racing. Might be worth looking into.

"Stronger valve springs" This is primarily why I went to the softer Schneider spring kit over the Isky kit. Easier on the camshaft.

Usually Imports have much lighter Valve train components than domestic cars. And less lift. The new oils are adequate ( barely ) on stock Valve Trains. They are inadequate with higher pressure Valve Trains. Domestics are effected more than Imports. Heavier components, higher valve lift and stronger valve springs. A modern 4 valve Import engine has very little little valve lift compared to a Domestic 2 valve engine. L-series aren't immune to the issue. Especially if you raise spring pressure or even alter the Cam profile with stock springs. More aggressive acceleration ramps also expose the weakness of low ZDDP oils. We are fortunate that Datsun had REALLY good metallurgy back when they built this Valvetrain. But out engines are not immune. Lots of horror stories of flattened cam lobes on L-4's and L-6's, primarily with stronger valve springs, higher lift and duration cams and Energy Star oils. OEM Nissan cams affected as well. Not just the POS CWC cores. Note: Stock engines will probably be just be fine on these new oils. In fact the oil manufactures have pointed this out in their test Data. The new oils will work fine on Modern Flat Tappet, Bucket or Finger follower valve trains. It's what they DON't tell you that is important. These tests are done ONLy on stock engines. And only on specific types of engines. Modified HP engines or Vintage engines are not their concern at all. And they certainly don't test high performance engines such as the old BBC 427's, Boss 302's, or any 70's Muscle car engines. And modified engines or engines used for Track Days? You're living on borrowed time with modern SM/SN Energy Star motor oils with reduced ZDDP. Turbos' also pound the snot out of oil. High Temperature Shear Protection ( HTSP ) is something that you have to be very aware of in Turbo engines. Shell Rotella T6 ( Full synthetic ) excels in that area, which is why it's very popular with the Turbo enthusiasts and Bike enthusiasts. It's classified as an Heavy Duty Engine Oil ( HDEO ) primarily for use in Diesel engines, but acceptable for use in older vehicles ( Pre-2006 because of the EPA regulations ) Unfortunately the Rotella T6 Full Synthetic comes in limited weights. ( At least in Canada ) . The 5w-40 is a bit too thin for the older engines like an L-series, particularly as they age. and the bearing clearances open up. ( It's the cold pour point, the " 5w " that is the issue ) . A good Ester 10w-40 with higher levels of ZDDP is ideal for our motors. Both Turbo and non-Turbo. Depending on ambient temps of course. Most of us don't drive our Z cars in the dead of winter. Motul, Amsoil, Redline, Joe Gibbs racing all make excellent full Ester 10w-40 Synthetic oils. The Joe Gibbs ( Driven ) oils are a new mPAO formula which is superior to PAO synthetics.

Hah! I remember using wintergreen oil on the tires of my slot-racing cars back in the 1960's. Nothing new under the sun, it seems. As for trying it out now on old Datsun rubber, I'll wit for someone else to try that and report back. I'm still not over the pain of the epsom-salts-and-vinegar electroplating set-up that was also 'guaranteed' to work.

I think they should for a Z car convoy.

Cool! It would be nice to see some West coasters @Mike @Zed Head @Mark Maras and others... You all could compete for furthest attendee

I did some searching too and found a lot of references to wintergreen oil. One post spoke about mixing about 4 oz of Wintergreen oil in a pot of water and boiling the parts for about 40 minutes. Evidently gave good sustainable results. Another was soaking parts in lacquer thinner mixed with wintergreen oil. Just keep in mind Wintergreen oil is very toxic! I found 8oz of oil on ebay for a little more than a $1 an ounce

Mike will be sending me the original for a factory correct reproduction....

I've read that a two step seems to work: 1. Lacquer Thinner to soften. 2. Wintergreen oil to soak http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/soften-hard-rubber.865303/ Here in Canada, a rust proofing liquid called Rust Check seems to soften rubber nicely in an unwanted fashion. It may work too:

Here is a common Ford PCV 1/2" grommet part 42065 available at most autozone, canadian tire, etc shops. It comes close: 1/2" hole, 1" top curved face, 1.4" bottom face https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/filters-16470/pcv-valve-grommet-12023/dorman-help-pcv-valve-grommet/42065/4527812/1989/ford/f-350 Part 42066 comes close too: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/dorman-help--4422/filters-16470/pcv-valve-grommet-12023/dorman-help-pcv-valve-grommet/42066/4527813/1968/ford/mustang

Have you tried Gummi Pflege? I remember it being brought up in the past. I had thought I might try it on some pieces I was gonna use because they are unavailable.

I tried this (lacquer thinner) with a rock-hard side window bumper (the one that sits at the bottom-rear of the door). It worked beautifully and I thought that I'd finally discovered the secret to rejuvenating all of the aging rubber parts on my car . Sadly, after 24 hours I found that the rubber had returned to its original, rock-hard state. I've tried three different 'rubber and vinyl restoration' products to date and none of them have been effective in softening hardened rubber (or vinyl).

Mike, I used to have a 16 track reel-to-reel machine and for cleaning the rubber on the pinch roller, Tascam sold lacquer thinner. It softened the rubber while cleaning the iron oxide particles from its surface. A rub with some lacquer thinner may help soften the grommet.

Hi Kats, that photo is from HS30 00004, I have not seen the grommet top part of the boot on an AU market car. I have to say it's also my favorite style. I have attached a photo of the boot from HS30 00150 which I assumed was just missing the grommet, but now that I see the photo of HS30 00004's in more detail I'm inclined to think maybe it never came with that grommet?

I use to use the defy but no longer able to get it .so I looked on the quaker state site and no longer made. that is what led me to the rotella t4 oil. I believe the quaker state high mileage oil is what replaced it and when I called them I think if I remember right the zinc was about 800ppms.

Assembly

My Z became new again! (Missed it by 3 miles... DOH!) And yes... that is a Jack in the Box head on the antenna...

My son and I did our first brake work. Trying to chase down some howling from the right side front disc. Remove the wheel and brake pads. Cleaned the rotor and calipers, cleaned and sanded the pads. Added some “brake quiet” goop on the back of the pads and reinstalled everything. Seems good so far… Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Took my son up to a new home development that is under construction for a session of manual transmission driver training. He is doing great. Part of me is going to be sad when he is ready to drive it on his own. I don’t think I will ever see it again! [emoji22] Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

This New Years project is BC Coliovers. Got donor front and rear struts ready to cut and weld Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Took our ‘72 240Z down to Cars and Coffee in San Clemente, CA. We didn’t park in the exhibitor area, but based on what I saw there, we probably should have. There was one really beautiful right side drive, orange 240Z there. It could’ve used some company :-) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Love the AC ducts in those spots. Always thought those were a great spot for them.