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Hi Steve, The car belongs to a gentleman up in the Bay area who is the original owner. I believe his plans are to hold on to the car and take it to shows. Hopefully, he will keep me abreast of how the car fares. Yes, this is true. Fortunately, it is my preferred hobby and I really enjoy the work. With all that goes on in life, working on a Z is therapy for me.

This came in today. Thanks @Zup! This is a work of art. Will install tomorrow.

Unpacked several recent purchases for install on the Datsun on New Year’s Day.

I’m liking it! Keep in mind, locally I would have been charged about $300 to get this part stripped and powder coated. Buying my own system has saved me thousands in the long run I’m sure. I have powder coated a lot of parts already!

Your ride is sweet. I’ll look at those links you sent. I did replace one of the fusible links that was broken, forgot to mention that. I just don’t know what to do next. I think I’ll buy a new stater, they’re cheap and I’ll eventually need one. I need to start canceling probable issues. I gues I need to get a wiring diagram and test the connections and relays. They guy I bought it from had the interior TOTOALY stripped out except the dash so I don’t know whats connnected and what’s not. He also threw away the cars seats so I’m hunting for some original replacements I can refurbish. I’m seatless ?

@zbert1 I'll remove them today. PM me your address. No charge. Pay it forward.

I thought there was some adjustment at the door but it may only be at the body. The door really needs to go in provided the gaps at the hood and cowl are good. Does the bottom of the door line up well? If I had to move the door in and there wasn't any adjustment I would take metal off the mating surface of the hinge. The face where it bolts to the body. There is plenty of meat on the hinge to allow for small adjustments like this. You could also do some dolly work on the mount surface of the frame to try to get some room. If you over drive it then you can use body shims to perfect it. When you work on the lunar surface you need to guide coat. Some cheap black lacquer spray paint or some good dry powder guide coat. Work on the panel, then guide coat. Sand with some 180. The high spots show up first. Work them down some. The low spots (where the guide coat remains) need to come up. Then repeat, repeat, repeat... If you have an area of stretched metal (if it took a pretty hard hit) you may need to shrink it. Shrinking discs work well but a propane torch also works and sometimes it is easier to use. Heat the spot some, cool with a wet rag or you can let it air cool. I always use a wet rag. It is amazing how it will tighten up a panel.

I know this is an old dead thread but I thought I should add that my July ‘73 240z has the cream primer underneath, not body color, so they must have made this change before the 260z came along.

HLS30-00110 with a build date of 12-69 was a blue on blue but I did not put it on the Z register, thought the new owner might want do it. Bonzi Lon

I agree with Mark unless you want them totally restored. Then your best options are the two you already mentioned...

Imo, if the carbs are in relatively good shape (throttle shafts not severely worn) and they're just dirty, there's no reason to have someone rebuild them for you. Purchase rebuild kits and the video "Just SU's" from ZTherapy and have a go at them yourself. It doesn't take a long time at all. They're EASY to refresh and it will be a great opportunity to learn about them.

Get one for yourself. Then you'll have a compari SON car.

Still have my 1977 Road Atlanta stub. Lost a lot of the photos over the years unfortunately.

I sure hope we aren't headed to an era where people are turning everything into "Series Ones" because they're worth more. With the recent spike in prices, I wouldn't be surprised. Disappointed, but not surprised.

Hey guys, You may know that I am building a ZX motor for my 240z with a euro SU carburetor configuration, but I am stumbling over the harmonic balancer I should use here. I've read about thirty threads on this topic, from the 5 or 6 forums that I follow, and none of them is actually comparing the options against each other. I only need one pulley, so I had initially intended to go with a standard 240z balancer, and if I could find one from Europe with just one pulley, even better. However, I've read in a lot of places that the factory balancers are prone to failure. I don't plan to hang out in the high revs all day long, but I'll definitely be getting into them periodically and I don't want my balancer flying apart. I also read somewhere that the timing marks from my '83 ZXT engine aren't in the same location as 240z timing marks, so I have to use something meant to go on a ZX. So now to my actual question: has anyone done a comparison of the various option for balancers? Snooping around the internet yields three basic options: a factory balancer, the Powerforce balancer on MSA, or the $350-$500 options like ATI, BHJ, and Kameari. I can't imagine that a street car should be running a $500 balancer, so I guess what I want to know first is are the two Powerforce balancers high quality (like Motorsport claims they are) or do they fly apart all the time like people on Hybridz are claiming? Right now I'm leaning toward one of these, but if they are crap, or if there's a brand out there with something sub-$150, I'd love to know before I buy something.

To add some clarity to the discussion and perhaps help some other people with this, here are the options for a street application I have identified so far: OEM by price '82-83 280ZX Turbo Factory Crankshaft Pulley ($259.87 @ Motorsport!) '75-83 280Z/ZX Factory Crankshaft Pulley (Double Pulley, $219.00 @ Z Car Depot) '73-74 240Z Factory Harmonic Balancer, US-Spec ($274.95 @ Motorsport!) 240Z Factory Harmonic Balancer, Rest-of-World (NLA) Nismo L-Series Harmonic Damper (NLA) Street Aftermarket by price Professional Products PowerForce Harmonic Dampers, 70-83 Z/ZX (Single Pulley, $105.95 @ Motorsport!) PowerBond Premium OEM Replacement Harmonic Balancers (Double Pulley, $183.97 @ Summit Racing) Powerforce SFI-Spec Racing Damper, 70-83 Z/ZX (Single Pulley, $199.95 @ Motorsport!) - Note that I have read threads about these being too small and not fitting, but this is 10-12 year old information and may have been rectified by now. Pioneer Balancers DA-41(Double Pulley, $249.97 @ Summit Racing) ATI Super Damper Sport Compact Harmonic Balancers ($359.97 @ Summit Racing) BHJ Dynamics Street Performance Special L-Series Datsun Harmonic Damper ($497.00 @ BHJ) Racing Aftermarket by price (for posterity) Kameari L-Type Super Racing Damper Pulley ($382.40 @ RHD) BHJ Dynamics Race Special L-Series Datsun Harmonic Damper ($497.00 @ BHJ) Kameari L-Type Super Racing Damper Pulley Full Kit ($637... @ RHD) I have also read that the Nissan Quest, Maxima, Laurel, and Cendric pulleys/ballancers will work, but I don't know if they require modification, nor if the timing marks are the same. Another wrinkle is the 280ZXs that came with factory installed AC had the timing indicator on the passenger side (light) rather than the driver side (left). I'm not sure if that means the balancer is different, or if it means timing was maintained by aligning gear teeth differently.