Leaderboard
-
motorman7
Subscriber
4Points2,220Posts -
Matthew Abate
Free Member4Points1,204Posts -
Mike
Administrator3Points23,056Posts -
240260280
Free Member3Points4,442Posts
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/27/2017 in Posts
-
Why is it that the simpelest jobs always turn to a nightmare?
Since buying a "rust free" aluminum and plastic Honda Insight, I have gained a great deal of experience in dealing with corrosion due to dissimilar metals, moisture, and electricity. The Insight's steel suspension bolts, seatbolts, and wiring harness stays all corrode where they contact aluminum. The front engine cover on our Z's is especially prone to this same problem due to the steel bolts, steel block, aluminum cover and gasket insulator. MORE IMPORTANTLY , the alternator's current passes through these bolts due to the front cover gasket insulating most of the path. In places where steel bolts fasten to, or pass through aluminum, I now use this product available at Home Depot in the electrical section for aluminum wiring (NOALOX) NO ALuminum OXidation. I recommend it for timing cover bolts, and water pump bolts. It works like antiseize but is better suited for steel bolts into aluminum parts.3 points
-
Rolling Shell with no VIN
2 pointsI know i'm late to the party, however I have been affected by this before. The Car ID is the chassis number. No other part identifies the car. Its the Part number 1, correct at the factory. Why would a car use the number thats screwed to the dash and/or door plate? Why would you want to change the ID? There is ZERO reason to change the ID away from the one on the chassis bulkhead. A few years ago, I was on the receiving end of a car just like this. I purchased a car from a company that at the time was considered the UK experts on these cars, its was jointly imported by them with a prolific UK importer who still brings cars in. The door plate and dash tag were of a low vin 1970 car. I was pleased with my purchase, put a few pics up on a UK forum. I had to then swallow a very bitter pill. The car turned out to be a 1973 body wearing early 1970 id's. A ringer. There's no honest way why you'd do this. Once I cleaned all the filler away from the bulkhead it became apparent that the car was a mid 73 car. I was lucky and managed to get a full refund, it did help raise my general awareness to this sort of thing and makes it a sensitive subject for me. One i'd actively try to steer people away from. Its not good news for a place like this to condone it in any away. People looking the other direction is not the answer. What happens if you have a crash, an assessor spots the mis matched numbers and uses it as a way to claim your insurance void? What happens when you sell? How can there ever be any explanation thats anything but corrupt?2 points
-
Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration
2 pointsThanks for the support Carl. Yes, I would love to see this shown at Pebble Beach. It would fit right in. Just got back from a short vacation in Sedona. Time to get back to work on the Z I got the door mechanisms cleaned up and installed. Got the door handles, locks, inside handles all cleaned, installed and working nicely. Had to clean up some over spray from previous paint job. Also got the drivers side mirror buffed out and installed (That was tricky). Got the front turn signals and lights cleaned up and installed. Also got a new pair of OEM windshield wiper supports. The wipers on the car as received were not stock. The OEM design of the wipers is a work of art and a must have. I am about ready to put in the headlights, but would like to put in the original Koito brand lights. I have one and think I can probably get a second one from @Montezuma or Les. I think that would be a nice touch. A few pics are below.2 points
-
Modifying a '70-71 choke knob to fit a '72
Lowes carries 3mm M3- .50 x 6 that worked to replace the fine threaded screw on my 70. You may have to either drill the recess larger or grind down the head to fit the knob. Once the poly dries the broken/missing knob will be replaced this home custom walnut knob. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile2 points
-
1973 Rebuild
2 pointsIt’s great, but use a rag. My phone doesn’t recognize my fingerprints now. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile2 points
-
1972 Z Brake switch / valve
1 pointSPRINGS... so that's what all that rust was, when I took my brake warning unit apart there was a lot rust and brown mayonnaise stuff, I thought the rust was from the piston but it seems now it was what used to be springs. Well then ZH I concede, sorry for confusing the thread. That illustration BR-14 clearly shows them.1 point
-
Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration
1 point...and the soft wire brush. I am guessing that they did not 'prepare' that surface so it came off a bit easier than normal. I do use lacquer thinner a lot, but it was not needed in this case.1 point
-
Windshield Seal Options
1 point
-
Added to my Garage this weekend!
1 pointGreat toys and a great history with your toys Jerry. May we all never grow up!!!1 point
-
Added to my Garage this weekend!
1 pointAnother addition to my garage. Tiger Moth by TAXA. A lightweight utilitarian camping trailer. Can't wait for next springs Grand Canyon trip!1 point
-
Rolling Shell with no VIN
1 pointLet's look at things philosophically, What part of the car if changed, affect the OWNERSHIP/LEGAL STATUS of such vehicle. Assume I have a truck, I get into an accident and the frame is bent, I pick up another frame at a junk yard, private party ect and swap it in. obviously the frame numbers no longer match the vin, is it or should it be illegal? after all the frame was purchased legally, it wasn't stolen. Same argument can be made for the engine , subframes or any other part that can be changed....that includes the cabin. For example: on some trucks there were no numbers stamped anywhere but the frame AND the vin tag/s that were riveted to the dash, door frame ect does changing the frame effects legality? maybe in some other countries but in no state in the US that I'm aware of. how about changing the cab and riveting that vin plates on it? dito! Now back to the case in point: as far as law enforcement is concerned the car's identity comes from the vin tags, the numbers stamped on the cab/frame interest no one, unless they are reported stolen, that will get you in hot water...otherwise...no body cares. Back in the late 90's I moved to Reno from Socal, at the time I had this 79 Toyota pickup 4x4, the cab mounts were all gone(the floor was all rusted out) so it was much easier to swap in another cab, I transferred the dash and vin tags off the old (white) cab to the new (blue) cab, among with everything else such as doors seats ect. In Nevada a vehicle that comes out of state and is to be registered is required to get a "vin check" you take your vehicle into the dmv and an inspector verifies that your vin numbers matches the title ect. When I took it in the inspector commended me on a job well done!, I guess my rivering skills exceeded his expectations... did he care about or ran the vin on the firewall? hell no, imagine a complete white truck with a blue cab....it was obvious what was done here... Some will make the argument of "vin fraud" as a crutch....but lets examine the definition of "fraud": "wrongful or criminal deception intended to result in financial or personal gain" As long as one does not lie about the act (swapping a body in our case) there is no fraud. if one has vin tags/firewall for 00015 and transfers it all to a say 10589 (just for an example), then tries to pass it as a 000015 (to increase its value)...now we have a fraud case. its that simple.1 point
-
1973 Rebuild
1 pointFive months after starting this suspension refresh by pulling the wheels off I am over the hump! After blasting I put the parts through a rinse. The middle bottle worked the best: not to harsh but still effective. Acetone to neutralize the acid in the rinse. POR-15 Spray booth and POR-15 Top Coat Not sure if I should paint these or not. Opinions? Still waiting for my rear inner bearings and some random hardware. Once that comes I’ll start reassembly. After that I’ll flush and repaint the differential. Then it gets new bearings and seals, even though it’s only three years old. I’m just paranoid about the possibility it had dirt in the bearings from sitting in the junk yard.1 point
-
Added to my Garage this weekend!
1 pointAll go input on safety gear for sure!!! One other tip while riding.....always be aware that you may be invisible to people in cars. If motorcycles are not part of their lives they may subconsciously see you but really don't. I've been riding sport bikes for over 30 years and am still hear to talk about it. I just turned 66 years young and currently ride a highly modified 2009 Yamaha R1. As is said many time before....."If you ride on two wheels, its not a question if you will fall down, its just a matter of time." Most of all........just have fun. "Just one mans opinion" Tom1 point
-
Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration
1 pointThanks for the support everyone. it really is pretty fun putting it all together. Got a lot done yesterday and today. Got the door window frames cleaned, polished and installed. Replaced some of the connector housings, got the rest of the smog lines in. Got the headlight buckets on (will probably revisit those, gap is a bit wide. Thinking I may shim the inside lip.) Got the fuel door on. Also, here is a pic of the red coil cap1 point
-
Skyline Webcams
1 pointHi Jeff, Did you watch this web cam portal. http://wxyzwebcams.com/ It is interesting because it shows the real-time ranking of the best webcams for each country in the world.1 point
-
32K mile 1976 280Z Original - Survivor
I love it! Hope it brings a good dollar. It looks immaculate. I expect a price over $25,000 for this one if the right people are there.1 point
-
1973 Rebuild
1 point1 point
- 1973 Rebuild
1 pointDid this yesterday: Time to toss this tent. Done with the blaster, too, I think, but I'll hold onto it for a minute just in case.1 point- Added to my Garage this weekend!
1 pointI remember my time on the bikes as a great but dangerous time. Drive safe and always be one step ahead of the rest of the traffic, and gear up, NO shortcuts on the safety equipment. Iam third from the left.1 point - 1973 Rebuild
Important Information
By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.