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My buddy lent me his bleeding tool. This thing makes bleeding clutch and brakes a simple 1 person job with no need to touch the clutch or brake pedal. You do need a compressor to use this. https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Vacuum-Brake-Bleed-Kit-P30449.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgNrQBRC0ARIsAE-m-1w9GBS_eXX5JTgHEp0bStUHgJmPeusMvLWvUBowSdqJJ-zpbIXog3kaAmFVEALw_wcB

Here's the latest update: All - ZCON 2018 host hotel will be at the Sonesta. In order to book your hotel, you may use the following link and Group Code. They promised to simplify the code after the new year, but this one works so you can get your hotel now. The event is October 16-20 in Atlanta, GA - the website is www.ZCON.org. Event registration will go live 1/1/18. Get booked now within the room block for $105/night with free parking and free wifi included. We've extended the group-block two days before and after the event for those coming in earlier or wanting to enjoy the area after the event. https://gc.synxis.com/rez.aspx… USE BOOKING CODE: 10166823ZC

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL... Wishing all my good friends a wonderful, safe, and great day! Blessings for everyone... much love... Jai

Oh man I'll need to go being so close and in October to boot! Edit: Just got permission from wife to!

The main problem is that people use the term inaccurately, and apply it to details and features which don't fall neatly into such pigeonholing. As can be seen on this thread...

I've done dozens of clutch master and slave replacements and only once did I have one that just wouldn't bleed. I tried every method with no success until finally I had a helper tap the master with a screwdriver in rapid fashion while I used a vacuum bleeder on the slave. Sure enough, the air bubble worked its way out of the master and all was good again.

Sure can, one man bleeder, IIRC. . I'm beginning to wonder Happy Thanksgiving to you too. Going to have me a couple shots of Patron and then a couple beers. Not necessarily in that order. Then some turkey.

Early/late is too vague. Without context, it could mean anything. To simply say you have an 'early' Z could mean anything. It could mean any 240z, any series one 240z, any 1970 series one car built early in the year, or any series one car with a 1969 build date. In the context of 1969 build date cars, it could even mean only very early build date 1969 production cars. When you refer to a Z as a series one, most people who have been around here for a minute know exactly what you're talking about. And I would argue that there is a clear cut off. For US cars, VINs under, I believe, about 20500, build dates up to 1/71 - although recently there was a late production series one car that had a 2/71 build date, but that is an anomaly, and I've never seen such a thing. It works just fine as a 'series' descriptor, has for many years. I certainly wouldn't consider myself an authority on the matter, but I think my definition of a series one car is pretty accurate. It is not meant to apply to cars with an exact selection of parts. Also, I would only apply it to US models. I don't know the non-US Z market that well, so maybe it could apply to cars outside of the US market, but I am assuming that the term originated in the US, and is best applied to US market cars. Someone else can chime in if they feel differently.

Sound mat complete!

Americans... late to the table! Thanksgiving was a month and a half ago!

No issue as I am going carpet over the towers and wheel humps!

This is called title washing. It is getting harder to do and could be illegal in many areas. I find it unethical to "wash" a salvage titled car once it is branded, but it doesn't bother me to have a clear title on a car that has crash damage. Salvage cars don't scare me for some of the same reasons gnosez posted above. Just about any damaged car can be made right if you spend the time and effort. Just my perspective...

Tell her you need to come up for the Mitty in April as a test run. By the way, my wife will be compiling a list of shopping places for conference attendees who may not be as interested in Z cars as the rest of us.

Dave, are you suggesting to silicone all the hose grommets? somehow I think it has to come in thru the hatch seals....its really bad while driving, and no my nose is not that sensitive...had more then a few z's in my youth but I cannot recall anything this bad! I'm thinking I can temporarily duct tape the hatch to see if it makes a difference...

Glad you're here. You'll find some very welcoming and knowledgeable folks on this forum for sure. Post up some pictures when you can and if it hasn't been cranked in awhile google "waking the sleeping beast classiczcars.com". Good read. Cliff

If you getting that feeling that all this is too much work and worry, sell the car to me as I could care less about what does and doesn't match up. I was surprised to read that the local LEO even knew there was a firewall VIN but maybe there is a database available to them to check. Vintage tube frame race cars had a chassis number stamped but most of the 30,40, or 50 year old cars have been re-tubed multiple times and about the only thing that is original is the section of tubing that has the stamped chassis number, I'm talking about race cars worth hundreds of thousands of dollars, where the tube, the engine, the body work have all been replaced, repaired or modified and yet they are deemed "original". This is true for a 1956 Ferrari race car that is worth north of $16MM that ran at LeMans and was recently restored by shop near me. But I digress, sell me this troublesome Z.

It is a huge benefit having the rotisserie in the shop!

Thanks for the support everyone. it really is pretty fun putting it all together. Got a lot done yesterday and today. Got the door window frames cleaned, polished and installed. Replaced some of the connector housings, got the rest of the smog lines in. Got the headlight buckets on (will probably revisit those, gap is a bit wide. Thinking I may shim the inside lip.) Got the fuel door on. Also, here is a pic of the red coil cap

I think this is the first time I've seen such a thing on any of these boards. Wow. That is exceptionally rusty.