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The Sheriff needs to hand in his badge and the 'Appraiser' needs to get another job. The two of them could get hitched and go to live in a banana republic somewhere. Venezuela might suit them. I think it's fair to say that in any country that takes classic cars seriously - and I think that includes the USA - it's the chassis number stamped or engraved into the bodyshell (by the Factory...) that counts. That's certainly the case for Nissan and the S30-series Z . Door jamb tags, dash tags and engine bay tags are all moveable feasts, and do not trump the firewall-engraved prefix and body serial number combo that was applied by the Factory when the car was being made. Without getting into the philosophical discussion of what actually constitutes 'a car', it is generally accepted that 'the car' in your case will be the thing that has the firewall-engraved chassis number. At this point, it looks to me as though you don't actually have full and correct ownership of that. I'd consider that a big problem...

guys, i havent been on the site in a few days, but the issue is resolved. James has offered to make it right and i will be dealing with him via PM's

I wasn't thinking bare metal as the "goal" necessarily, more thinking that might be where at least some of it goes since I don't know what's under the paint. True story about one painting experience: we live in a rental, and the previous tenants were using our place as a grow house. The DEA raided it and everything! When I painted my floorpans, I cooked up a supplied air system using a Tyvek suit and shop-vac (it totally worked), and can only imagine what my neighbors were thinking. No one said anything, but I probably don't need to push my luck! That was two years ago, though, so I think I could get away with priming, as long as it's a one-time quick-enough job.

@Redwing@SteveJ I'm on a winning streak. I actually found what I was looking for. Went thru the pile of plastic parts bags and I came upon the striker, shim and that little nylon thing with the fasteners. All appear to be in good shape. I'm going to degrease and CLR the latch, spiff everything up a bit and ship it off to Jai. I'll let Jai and you know when It's shipped.

Here's a link: http://www.atlantafalcons.com/fan-experience/fan-promotions.html. You can go to Kauffmantire.com and sign up for their promotions. I haven't had issues with getting the discounts in the past. I know that during baseball season, the stores tend to get crowded on the day after the Braves get a home run in the 4th inning for that promotion. While it may be quite a bit of driving to go to Canton, $120 is quite a bit to save on tires. I don't know much about the tire stores in Dalton or Chatsworth. NTB and Discount Tire have locations in Cleveland, TN & Chattanooga. That's less of a drive but without the opportunity for promotions. Otherwise, you're looking at something like Walmart. They have a surprising inventory of lower priced tires, though I can't vouch for longevity, quality, or competence of mounting/balancing.

That sets your price at about $60/tire plus road hazard, mounting & balancing, tire disposal fees, and tax. Unfortunately for you, there isn't a Kauffman Tire near you. The closest one is in Canton. They have frequent discounts based off the performance of the Hawks(maybe), Falcons, and Braves. For instance, the Falcons scoring in all 4 quarters merits a $120 if you order your tires the next day. The caveat is that it could require a prepayment and two trips down to Canton.

i recently made some 3/8" thick phenolic spacers for weber dcoe 40 carbs. these reduced the temperature of the carb base by about 40 degrees. i have enough material left to make 2 more sets of 6 spacers each. im asking $75 for a set that includes 12 gaskets and shipping to the lower 48. all you will need to do is replace the studs with 2" studs. i prefer a usps money order but can possibly do paypal prices on ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=weber+carb+spacers&_osacat=6000&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xweber+dcoe+carb+spacers.TRS0&_nkw=weber+dcoe+carb+spacers&_sacat=6000 a pic of the spacers installed

A dear friend said to me, jokingly, "I have a very interesting life, and the rest I post on facebook". I have heard it before, but it sums it up well. For me: Facebook is a social medium and forums for the more technical stuff. I'm not much of a facebooker.

And multiply your budget by 5.... ask me how I know...

I agree with Mark on the flux core but I will also add I had boat loads of frustration with a cheap 100amp 120volt welder. I was like this can't be this hard or no one would do it. I bought a better welder, a Hobart, that is 220v which you don't really need and plenty of capacity and the welding got much easier... Thoughts on your approach: Do you have problem neighbors? Painting in SC is not a problem; painting in CA could be.. paint smells and problem neighbors could cause problems... I don't know that I would try to get all the way to metal. If I had the car all apart and blasted clean then I would go epoxy primer but for you, it just adds work. If you get down to something solid and well adhered I would start priming from there and block it out. The more you can remove from the car the better your Maaco job will look. I would probably leave all the glass out of it and just let them tape it up... You need to be careful with paint products!!! Especially products like epoxy primer, they can be very bad for your long term and short term health. You need a good respirator and know how to use and care for it. Is your garage big enough? Can you get all the way around the car with some room to spare? You will need to tent up the garage when you spray or it will be on everything and all your sanding dust will be in your paint. Also do you have a reasonably large source or fairly dry air to run a spray gun? The more CFM the better...

RIP. You know Bon and Malcolm are rockin' it right now.

Yeah that's unfortunate. Would have been better to keep the L6 and build it.

Thanks for the support everyone. it really is pretty fun putting it all together. Got a lot done yesterday and today. Got the door window frames cleaned, polished and installed. Replaced some of the connector housings, got the rest of the smog lines in. Got the headlight buckets on (will probably revisit those, gap is a bit wide. Thinking I may shim the inside lip.) Got the fuel door on. Also, here is a pic of the red coil cap

I've not tried any of the HF welders but assuming they're capable of doing the job, I question your choice of a flux core welder.The sheet metal on Z's is very thin. A flux core weld isn't as precise as hard wire. There is a lot more smoke to prevent good vision, (even on a spot weld), the weld is left with slag on it that doesn't conduct elec. very well and you'll be left with a lot of splatter to clean up. Hard wire, on the other hand will allow smaller, more precise welds on thin steel. CO2-Argonne mix is expensive but is the easiest to weld with and will leave you with the least amount of clean up (no slag) and little splatter. I use straight CO2. Quite cheap, not quite as good as the mix and leaves just a little splatter to clean up. I've got quite a bit of experience with both types and while flux core is good for some things, rusty THIN sheet metal in tight places isn't one of them. Also invest in an auto-darkening hood. You'll need it to start small welds in the right place.

I don't like Facebook and spend almost no time there. If this forum dies out then I will quit participating. Not interested in migrating to Facebook...

Zkars: if both of your new cars have no-emmisions stuff including no air pump I would say they are a UN not a UA.

I know you're just pulling our leg, but please no more "series" designations. Considering the apparently endless list of ongoing changes throughout the entire S30 line, it is not wise to attempt to draw time lines that correspond to only certain changes. I think just using the break point where the vents moved to the sail panel from the hatch to delineate the "early" and 'late' is quite enough. Series 1A, 1B, 2, 2A, 2B, 2B or not 2B? That is the question...

Not sure if all years came with this, but what year car?