Leaderboard

I knew a guy, who knew a guy, who knew a guy, who knew a guy's cousin who temporarily installed a spare speedo in his car because the original was jumpy. The problem turned out to be the routing of the speedo cable and not the gauge itself, but before he put in the replacement, he took it apart and adjusted the odometer to reflect close to the correct mileage. He didn't bother with the 1's or 10's digits, but he changed the others so it was within 100 miles of my actual mileage. And then when he figured out that the speedo was never the problem in the first place, he took out the test unit and put his original back in. From what I heard, it's not too hard, but fiddly with small parts and the like. If you're good working on small delicate things, its not bad. If you're all thumbs and your best tool is a breaker bar or an impact gun, I'd send it to someone else.

A stud welder works even better than a screw in puller. Harbor freight has them I believe...

Nope, this is not a transmission related issue. ATs have a dual point system that retards the spark in cold temperature. However the sensor is in the passenger compartment and only affects the timing at temperatures below 40 degrees. I don't think you northerners are seeing temperatures that cold this early in the season. For AT's the idle is set while warm and in gear. Rpms raise when moving from drive to neutral or park as the engine unloads. A 250 rpm rise in that case would be normal. Start the cold car and after a minute of idling note the idle RPM in park with the choke off. Drive the car to let the engine achieve operating normal temperature. Park the car and note the idle RPM in park. If you are seeing an increase, the mixture is changing, the throttle setting is changing, or a leak has changed the vacuum advance. I would suspect a vacuum leak. If the leak occurs when the engine is cold and seals as the engine warms, I would expect the cold idle RPM to be low. This is contrary to Kully's description. I could see this happening if there was a vacuum leak at one carb that caused it to go lean when cold. If the leak develops as the engine warms, the mixture leans out. Since the idle is high when warm, it makes me wonder what conditions were when the last time the mixture and idle settings were done. BTW I have found that these engines never idled well at the "650 rpm" in Drive as specified. This worked well for 510's but not our Z's. I suggest the following: 1. Check the carb mount bolts for tightness as well as the balance tube fittings and intake manifold bolts. 2. Remove the vacuum advance line from the distributor and block it with a golf tee. 3. With a warm engine in neutral, set the idle speed to 900 RPM and set the timing to 10 degree BTDC. Idle speed will be affected as you adjust the timing, so you may have to repeat this step several times. 4. With a warm engine in neutral and correct timing, adjust the carb mixtures per the manual. 5. With the car chocked and the parking brake applied, set the idle speed to 700-750 rpm. 6. With the car back in neutral, re-install the vacuum advance line. If the idle RPM changes significantly, troubleshoot. Vacuum advance should only affect timing when letting your foot of the accelerator at high speed. I suspect that if your problem remains after this, the symptoms will change to a lower RPM at cold idle in drive. This may require more choke usage til warmed up.

Well from what I heard, this guy's cousin is a pack-rat and has a file folder containing years of annual DOT registration records, annual state safety inspection records, and annual insurance documentation that all show the steady progression of mileage from when he purchased the vehicle until now. He can also answer the following questions completely honestly with his head held high: Q - Is that the original odometer in the vehicle? A - Yes. Q - Not considering any potential discrepancies which may have occurred without your knowledge and before your ownership, is the correct mileage of the vehicle what is shown on the odometer? A - Yes. Q - Are you sure? A - Yes. Q - Are you double dog sure? A - Yes. Q - Do you have documentation to prove it? A - Yes. Haha! I think he should be OK. Here's to hoping the DOT has better things to spend tax dollars on than pursuing that dead end!

Buyer: 'Is that the real mileage on the car?' Seller: 'What would you like it to be?'

It did the job... Got five long days worth of work out of it before it was unusable for its original purpose, between blasting the body and the suspension. Cost me $80 on eBay.

I suggest you do some research on your carbs and get some basic understanding Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

They would probably say the same where I live but I am not sure I would tell them. Sooooo......

And don't forget those nice little folded welds that act as dirt shelves inside the front fenders. The cowl drains dump water right on those. Its a great way to hold moisture. But like others have said, drive it in the salt once and you will be able to watch it rust away. I had one of these as a daily driver back in '79 in northern Indiana. After 6 just Indiana winters, it should have gone to the scrap yard. I sure wish I had it now. It would have made a great parts car.

Be careful with any ideas of using roof underlayment. You will not want the smell and it may not stick as nicely to the sharp deformations in the pans. I initially tried it and then butyl rubber sheeting. They were not at all as good for the purpose as the Wurth mat which is made for original replacement in Porsches. It is not that expensive and it is a quality product.

Do the headliner first, then the headliner skirt, A pillars, then windshield. A big piece of cardbord on the floor will keep the bruises to a minimum. Those few things will have you doing gymnastics inside the car, you'll be glad you don't have anything in there to get scuffed up.

Gotcha. That was probably the language barrier that djwarner alluded to. When you asked them if the newer style would fit your 73, I would have expected them to tell you "No, but hang on... In two days, we'll be listing one for your year." So despite the communications issues, great to hear you found one for your year.. So looking at the pics again, it appears that skin just covers the outside vertical sides of the console and doesn't wrap up and over to the horizontal surface in the center of the console. In other words, it doesn't cover into the center pocket, ashtray, or shifter hole area. Primarily just the sides? Am I seeing that right?