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Got a lot of items installed tonight. Yesterdays prep work was a big help. Got the hand brake and linkage installed. Also put in the diff strap brackets and hardware. Then I lifted the differential assembly onto the mustache bar using my handy scissors jack. Then installed the bolts for the forward diff bracket. Got the half shafts installed as well. I threw the tires on just for safety. Jack stands are great, but you never know. (Side note: The red jack in the pics isn't touching anything on the underside. It is there just in case. Living in SoCal, I always have this strange fear that we might have an earth quake so extra support is always welcomed)

Haha!! You get 99% of my obscure references. I cannot possibly realistically expect you to get all of them. I was referencing an old Far Side cartoon:

When I was a kid I noticed people tailgating us and asked my Dad if it was because they wanted to show us they were as fast as us since we were in a sports car. His guess was that since our car was pretty small and they could see around it they felt confident driving up closer. That being said it doesn't annoy or worry me any less. I've thought it would be cool to build a small remote controlled box under the car that could chuck small rocks out on demand from next to the wheels. Just tap a little button and pelt them with a few stones that just look like regular ones kicked up from the road and see if they back off.

Mine used to sit dead center on the gauge and never move once it was warmed up. Then it started climbing to the edge of the M if I went over 65 on the highway. It could idle all day in traffic and stay at the center. Years ago a company truck where I worked would overheat only on the freeway. They decided it was a blown head gasket and bought a reman engine for it; while it was apart I convinced them they should get he radiator serviced. The guy at the radiator place said it had 2 tiny pinholes in it that once the heat and pressure started to climb would likely bleed off enough pressure to make it overheat like it was doing. But not leak enough to show. For my Z I got a pressure tester and I found I had a radiator hose that wasn't sealed perfectly. At full pressure only when I'd move the hose would it leak. I tightened all the hoses and now it climbs a bit above the middle on the freeway when it is 75 or hotter out but not as high and I have to get on it pretty good to get it to do that. I may still have a tiny leak somewhere but I'm not a huge fan of pressurizing the 45 year old heater core

My new house comes with a glorious garage. Now I have space to really drive the Mrs. crazy.

Not knowing any better I reused the nuts after installing new poly/rubber combo. One of the TC rods fell out of the hole and was dragging on my driveway. Thank goodness I heard it and didn't get on the road. Also all the pieces were in my driveway so I put it back on then took the advice of Zkars and "double nutted" both sides. The OE nuts are one use type. You could also use nylon lock nuts.

You might want to slip jack stands under it and check the torque on the pan bolts first. "Upper pan" was just a lame, vague description of the source of the leak. That guy missed his calling. He could have been a politician.

Single model year, limited supply. Might take a few extra years to catch up to 240's and 280's in value, but it will. Five years ago I don't think many of us would have believed anyone if they had told us what the 240 prices would be today.

Ooops. Looks like you're right. For some reason I thought this was an original style rubber bushing job. With the poly, it doesn't matter. So nevermind me. Carry on. Thanks Dave!

looks like he has the PU style bushings, at least on the rear control arms. I assume they don't need the loading?

I think I'd try a cooling system flush. At higher RPM's the engine logically produces more heat. Members who have pulled the freeze plugs in the block have reported vast quantities of grunge in the coolant passages.

I gave up a 69 SS 396 Chevelle when I bought my first Z. A lack of raw acceleration was my first impression but I soon learned that a Z has all the power it needs, plus a little bit more, for the street. I found that the fun of rolling in and out of corners far out-weighed the fun of straight line speed. Plus, in stock form they're very reliable.

(310) 308-8455. You might want to give this info to the body shop right away. From what I can see it's in pretty good shape. Like said above, It's going to be really hard to find the bumper pieces. You might want to search this site for people that have recently switched their bumpers for the 240 style. Maybe they still have the original bumper parts. That really sucks Jai. I wish you luck on getting Redwing fixed.

I have a mildly built Datsun spirit L28 and I run DCOE 40's with 32mm chokes. My jetting is based on a 40mm carb, so I cannot comment on how the 45's would take to my setup. Your settings are the critical ones for getting the car running for sure. Idle jet, air corrector, main jet and Emulsion tube. Those the largest tuning knobs outside of just picking a carb (40 or 45 DCOE) and picking a choke size (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, etc) However, lets us take a step back. You own a street car I assume and this is a back up for a race engine, which means those settings may be great for a race engine but not for a street engine. The difference is actually quite important. A street engine spends a lot of time at idle and even more time in the midrange were you want a good amount of torque and response. Off idle response and the transistion from idle jets to the mains is a vitally important for a street car. Now for a race, car what matters is peak HP/torque and quite a lot of time is spent Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Idle quality, efficiency, smooth transition are not nearly as important. A weber is a wonderful thing. It can be tuned to hit many critical areas. But it usually has to compromise somewhere. Be mindful of the difference between a street engine and a race engine. A race engine will not be happy living in daily traffic. I would think that those settings will make lots of power, but may not produce a happy street car.