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At the car show today These were in the parking lot... The pretty copper car has an RB26 turbo in it. Very clean install... Bruce made it! I think he got coerced into it, but he's here... Talking to some of the guys

Zup's ultra clean 73' Again... Complete with beautifully detailed "boat anchors" High above Lake Travis at the Oasis. We ate lunch at this little quiet spot... and of course SWBO... by the way the house on the left of the frame shows on zillow at $6,000,000 if you have some spare change...

There's nothing custom about it. It's a BSR front airdam. I have a mold in my shop and that's my car at NHMS.

Live it up boys and have fun. Remember to post a few pics so I live vicariously through you and pretend I'm there.

You know, I still have never seen one of these efi systems go so rich that the car wouldn't run. But I guess its possible? Have you checked spark yet? Is there a good strong spark? Plus you still haven't answered the question asked regarding your above statement. Are they wet before start up?

Do this and take a pair of small vise grips and clamp the hose going to it. I've seen them fail without being turned on electrically.

Checking plugs after revving is useless! Check them after being driven like suggested Adding turns is just gonna put more fuel down the exhaust for more popping. Get a wideband sensor!!!!

I heard the opposite: that rich mix causes popping in exhaust and lean mix causes popping through carb. But the cam might have something to do with it. Race cars always seem to be popping on deceleration.

New brake booster and master cylinder = no more mushy brakes! New engine mounts and tranny mounts = no more car shaking like an earthquake at idle or shifter vibrating during acceleration New rear main seal = no more leaks Oil changed and radiator flushed and new coolant = happy cool engine for the Texas summer New timing crank, alternator belt and distributor set = better ignition and happier engine Vacuum lines replaced = better idle and acceleration Lots of progress this week! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks Site. I had not seen the information in this format.. It is helpful!

Not sure if I've shown you this? If so, sorry but it has really helped me over the years with my '77. Thanks again to @240260280 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Click on "EFI and FUEL" Another thought that has probably been said before, are you absolutely sure the vacuum hose to the Fuel Pressure Regulator is good and pulling vacuum? 40 year old rubber cracks.

That car is actually an ex-Bob Sharp car that was owned by Doug Barnhold. Frank Honsowitz and Casey Mollett drove it at the 6 hrs of Riverside. They used Casey's number and colors that week end, since he had the paint. Info directly from Casey Mollett.

7 Captain Obvious Mike W Patcon Zup S30driver

R380...

Click to see video R380.mp4

He used to deal with the guy at The Z Barn many years ago. Probably some stuff or cars from there. I wished The Z Barn was still around. He actually said he sold 7 cars to the Z Barn.

I'm about 6 hours away (in NC) and I've a large area to store full cars and a lot of dry barn storage. When I lived up North a few of us collected parts cars and helped other Z owners restore and rebuild... no money changed hands... only beer, pizza, and good times... if anyone in the area wants to set that up and if the owner is willing to pass cars/parts along, perhaps we can arrange a large trailer or truck and head over, collect what we can, and store at my place... teardowns I enjoy and getting parts out to those who could benefit, especially closer to home, would be a great pay it forward... thoughts?

God bless him and I hope his transition is tranquil.

Sorry I couldn't respond earlier (I have to work now and then). We did expand the cut out initially toward the front of the door thinking it was necessary but once the actuators were fitted it looked like we could have avoided trimming the metal. We rolled the edges of the cut before paint went on so it would look factory. Once installed the actuators bow out the brace a bit (less then 1/4") which concerned me but it didn't prevent the door card from snapping in place and it can't be noticed at all. I tried finding the receipt for my actuators but couldn't place it right now (I will keep looking) but I do remember them being labeled as "slim" . I just did a quick search on Ebay and found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-Universal-slim-design-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-Motor-Auto-Car-Truck-12Volt-/311731565864?hash=item4894a63528:g:iyEAAOSwo4pYFrq8&vxp=mtr

Here's what I did. Hope something here may help.

You can make paper gaskets. Scan the bottom of you bowl lid or use the template below. Scale to correct size using regular paper and a printer. When you have the scaling right, put thicker paper or gasket paper in the printer then print to it and cut out with scissors or Xacto knife.

I have a rebuild kit on order from MSA. When I get the chance to have a look at it, I'll let you know whether the two seals are identical vs. different.

Got a rendering of my favorite Z car....