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Me and you both! It would've been a race to Kentucky. I should have known after Mr Pilgrim mentioned it. Oh well, mo money mo problems.

Thanks for the reminder, I remember it well. I'm a bit surprised it's still there, considering it's out in the open next to a busy road. Probably has been a lot of people bugging him or her about it. The owner obviously has an emotional attachment to the car, which is totally understandable. As much as I love searching for and finding treasure, I'm becoming one of those old farts who has more projects to complete than time, health and money may allow. I know I'm not alone. However, should anyone need assistance with evaluating Z's or parts in this area, I'd be glad to help. I love looking thru collectors treasures.

+1 on the cold beverage! I found while doing my two Zs front end you can jack the front end up and get the tires off the ground. Then use a small bottle jack or some pieces of wood if you dont have small jack and raise the tires up enough to get the pressure off the tie rod. Use a fork you can borrow for no charge at a chain parts store. Get the nut off and it'll pop right off without much effort once you take away the pressure. The threaded stud should be as straight up and down as you can get it. If it's at an angle it is a PITA.

The part mounted below the coil and ballast resistor is called a flow guide valve - no vacuum associated with it. It routes some vapors from the crankcase (the tiny tube on the PCV vent pipe) and vapors from the fuel tank to the back of the air cleaner so they can be pulled into the combustion process. The only "vacuum" that might be present would be the airflow being pulled into the carbs.

I think the "vacuum block" mounted to the inner fender (below the coil) is part of the fuel vapor recovery system and leads to the fuel vapor tank mounted in the right side quarter panel. I am relatively new to Z's so mileage may vary.... Also, FYI, BSPT plugs can be found at McMaster-Carr in several different metals (i.e. brass, aluminum, steel) and configurations (i.e. hex, hex socket, square).

It's kind of like a "mine is bigger than yours" mind game and is only meaningful to those who play the game. A lower VIN is only more valuable if you think it is. And the owner of a low VIN is only as important as he and the other players think he is. Easy! Dennis

You can tell that the guy who got it is just a car guy who got lucky. A collector wouldn't run 40 year old rust and grime through the engine just to hear the engine noise. Cringeworthy...

When I was fooling with my radio I learned the blue wires are power wires. There was one coming from the fan speed knob someone had put an inline fuse on. It was a newer blade type fuse so I'm guessing the blower motor was melting the original wire? Maybe if one was clogged with leaves and wouldn't spin it burnt the wire so they put that fuse in? That wire in your pic could power the cigarette lighter? Does it work?

TC RODS! Check the factory settings recommending. If the virtual axle (wheel hubs) are not aligned it will cause a DEATH VIBRATION under acceleration and braking you can get a WOBBLE. TIE RODS. COUNT the turns out and put on the same number of turns in and you will be back where you started. But get an alignment to make sure it's spot on. Good luck.

I like to see things like this. Thanks for sharing Kats.

Just noticed, you have a Bosch AFM. Yes, it's all pointing to the very early 75 model. First four months of production I believe.

The bosch ecu came on the very early 1975 model. I think I have a datsun pdf file somewhere with it listed as being replaceable with the later version. It's a rare ecu and some people like them because it doesn't seem to suffer the lean running condition the later units can develop. I have four AFM's. One is a pre August 77 with all the pins, two are from ZX's and one was uit of a 78, I think it was March iirc. I must say, I don't have any proof the 78 was an original AFM, but all the later AFM's I have don't have the last two pins in the connector or the plug on the afm. That doesn't mean the factory just kept installing the full afm and simply didn't use the switch function until stocks were depleted. You can test it with a multimeter to be sure. Contacts will close when the vane opens. Can you check the stamp on the top of the manifold. You should see N42 or N47. If its an N42, with the double inlet FPR, the really early ECU and the 7-pin AFM. Looks like it's from a very early Cal 280z. Here is a photo of two AFM's I have.

I don't believe the British press got anything exclusive with regard to Goertz. I think the "source of the Myth" was clearly Goertz himself, but he had friends and supporters in the North American automotive press and used them to big-up his 'portfolio'. Wasn't one of the biggest claims in the Canadian press? Anecdote: I was once threatened with legal action by some friends and associates of "Graf" Albrecht Goertz. They took exception to my correspondence with the British automotive press regarding their friend's work. They believe he "designed the Datsun 240Z", and were prepared to go to court to defend their view. I have no idea what evidence they could produce to support such a claim...

Actually it is legal... I just end up paying the taxes at the border if it is assessed. USPS rarely stops to assess. No difference if you shipped used parts. All above board. The difference is that most small shops don't want to bother with the paperwork to ship across the border.

Squirting oil into the cylinders is actually a very good way to determine if your rings are worn out. The theory being that if they're worn, the compression well go up as they meet oil. I believe the engine warm requirement has a bit more to do with the fact that the engine will have expanded on a microscopic level, allowing for a better seal between the rings and cylinder walls.