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Alright, got the head off tonight. Ended up putting the hoist on it and having my girlfriend stand on the back of the hoist with me. After a few tries it popped off. The bolt that kept spinning I hit with pb blaster and got out with a punch. But the bolt I snapped off in the block I couldn't get out with freeze off and vice grips. Probably gonna have to have someone weld a nut on it. Thanks everyone for the advice!

First car meet of the season. Fantastic weather.

I agree completely. I'm positive he weighs the same as a duck.

Thanks guys. It is an amazing job and I think I was fortunate to pick the specialty that suited me best but medicine (if done correctly) is more a religion than a career, requiring all your effort with very little respite. I've been at it for 33 years though and I've put myself on a "pre-retirement protocol" . I promised my kids I would retire by 60 which comes up in March of next year and I plan to honor my promise. I'm sure I'll miss surgery terribly and a lot of free time will be tough to manage but I'm sure working on my toys (cars, motorcycles, house, etc), maybe a new business venture, and spending time with the people I truly care for will take up a lot of it very pleasantly.

Agree with Ala KaZaam ^. Usually if one pulls the rubber boot from the end of the slave and master cylinder, Brake fluid will be seen in the one with a leak. That said, in my experience, the cylinders are usually the same ancient age and if one is bad, the other is soon to fail. I always replace them both at the same time.

I thought silk material when I did my reproduction effort many years ago. But it isn't silk. The thread size is much thicker, the weave is much more course, but the fiber size IS very similar to silk. Also want to tip my hat to Snake Oyl seat belt restoration. Yea expensive but very good quality and easy to work with.

It has been awhile since I posted an update on #8011. I have actually been quite busy with various projects on the car, many of which are posted throughout the forums on the site. With each project that is completed the car shines a little brighter or performs a little better. Back in February I was on a mission to seal up the rear of the car to reduce and hopefully eliminate the exhaust fumes that were coming. Additionally, I wanted to replace the hatch vent grilles as the grilles on the car had been drilled and riveted for installation. This project went down a rabbit hole fairly quickly as I discovered my car was missing the unique clips that hold the vent assembly together and provide the locating point for the barrel clips that secure the grille to the car. With the help of some dedicated owners I ended up having a local sheet metal fabrication company make a run of the clips. You can see the entire saga in great detail here -> http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57001-series-1-hatch-vent-duct-clips-restoration-info-needed/

ok AZ. I will add yours, but please confirm and post a photo of your tag, i'm not sure if your 1/71 is the same style as the '70 still. My '72 has a 12/71 stamped on it and has a "Y" on the side. Notes on the 1970 and 1971 has a letter code on the right edge, see photos. I have no idea what they meant. 240260280 - I'll add yours too when you confirm the month.

You could clean it up so it would be ready to drop in at a moments notice. Plus, they are beautiful works of art and would nicely compliment any garage.

It didnt came with instructions. I guess the side facing the manifold is the one that should be covered. Please be advised that besides these 2 heat shields i have the original stock heat shield covering the center of the manifold. THis guy manufactured my heat shield extensions!! He has great ideas:

"Or I could buy a stitching awl and do it all by hand." I unfortunately believe this would yield the best results.

Alright...alright...alright... I've been watching this post for a while now, and have decided to jump on the bandwagon. In January of 1971 (having grown up in Miami and still there), I told my Dad that I wanted to get a Z. I said that to him as he worked at the main Mercedes Benz dealership, and they had a second one specifically selling Datsuns. My waiting list was 1 month when I got the call from Dad saying "how does red sound to you"? He didn't know it was not a true red, but Mexican Orange. I was in heaven it was "red". I went to get it that afternoon, and it was dark by the time I left. I paid $3200. for her, at $100 a month. Any of you old hippies remember a song called DOA? It was describing a horrible accident where the guy and girl were dying and listening to the cop saying that. Ugh. That played for me on the radio as I drove home, not comforting. I had never driven a car that had any power, and was scared of her. I did not want to drive home in the dark, but oh well. She was my Redwing, "my little red car that flew me where ever I wanted to go". Redwings was 1 letter too long on the tag tho, so Redwing she became. I learned quickly how to Drive that Lil Sweetie. This was when I was 28 years old, and hubby had split. So I really let loose, being free for the first time in my life. All that and a Z too! Woweeee. I drove her for 259,000 miles. The joy of my life. Moving forward to my 2nd Z. (Dear Redwing was sitting because I didn't have the $ to fix her. That pained me badly, we had such good memories together. Life intervenes badly at times, I truly wanted to do a restore, but $ was scarce.) Would you believe that I saw my RedBird on eBay? I had just received an inheritance, fixed things around here, built a carport, and bought my "new" 1976 280Z. I'm in N. Ga., and she was in Miami. My friends I have known for half my life knew someone in Miami to go check her out. She passed, the deal was closed, and she came up to Jacksonville where they live. They had their mechanic go all over her. Wendell restores '57 Chevys, what he had when we were in high school together. Finally RedBird made it here to me in March 2015. I won't list the several problems she came with that I tried to have fixed. The locals were totally inept about Z cars. So I joined CZCC to find out what really needed done. Later on, there were several super members that came and worked to fix her. Some brought parts, all brought years worth of knowledge. Thank God and the great guys of CZCC, I now have a 100% car. Until that is, some 40 year old part decides to quit. We all have cars that are a work in progress in that way. Needless to say, this now "mature" lady is reliving all those Glorious Hippy years spent with Redwing. Smiling all the way down the road. Below I have photos of my 1971 Redwing, and 1976 RedBird. BTW, Redwing is now in the hands of Tim who is doing a full restore on her. That really makes me feel good! Hope I have not bored y'all, I love to talk about my car (s). Jai

hey Zup, no problem. I can make that 7/1970 tags for you. I'll add that on my list. Thanks.

UPDATE: So last fall, on one of my last drives before I put my 240z away for the winter, the outboard, front bolt through my adapter plate broke the driver's side, front seat cross mount. [Note: In the below pics, I have already drilled a new hole, inboard of the failed area]. Because the outboard seat mount extends forward of the front seat cross mount, pushing back on the seat back put additional tension on the bolt through the front cross seat mount, and caused the metal to fail. I decided to use an 18" section of angle steel to sandwich the original front cross seat mount, stiffening and strengthening the installation. I had to drill a new hole through the adapter plate, inboard of the hole that failed, to secure the mount. I drilled four holes through the angle steel, notched the inboard end to allow me to put a washer and nut on the bolt, and painted it in satin black. Since there are strengthening channels in the front seat cross mount, I used two washers to act as spacers between the angle steel and the front seat cross mount. The driver's seat is now solidly mounted once again. Though the passenger side does not show any signs of failure, I will do the same modification to the passenger side next winter. If you have installed S2000 seats in your 240z or are planning to, I'd recommend you use a section of angle steel, to stiffen and strengthen the front seat mount. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Zama......Eiji has a drawer full of seals....don't know who he gets his from, but Viton is what you want.....and what Eiji uses. The Nissan seals are the orange/brown color......the best! If you need a low profile seal for a higher lift cam, the Ford low profile seals are what you want. Eiji told me he uses the Ford low profile seals for high lift cams.....he was using low profile seals from Japan, but he finds the Ford seals easier to install! However, It's not just the cam profile that determines short or tall seals. A .490 lift doesn't require short seals in a shaved P79 head because you are using a valve that is .080 inches longer. In the E31 or E88, you will need the short seal if you use a lift above .460. Not sure about the N42/47.

Installed a 5 speed today. A 280zx close ratio. thanks to my wife for manning the floor jack. Turned the flywheel, new clutch, seals and pilot beating. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm going to have Eiji build the bottom end. A stroker motor is something totally new for me. He knows which rods and piston heights to use with my Z Doc head. Also, with a stroker motor, there are mods that must be performed on the block. I want to put the rest together.....I just enjoy the build and want to feel like it's my engine. I'm thankful to have Eiji as a friend that will work with me and give me advice on building this motor......he's amazing!