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I didn't post it with the intention of being a smart arse, but I know when I say to a group that I'm offering an item somewhere first I usually give folks a couple of days to respond and if no response then I list on eBay or another place etc.. eBay just inflates prices (for potential buyers) and reduces profit (for seller). That's why I personally try to avoid it where possible. Would have been nice to list an asking price also. /Off soap box now.

Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading.

I posted a thread about a year ago. But I can't find it anymore. Well I was even stupider than I am now so let me just start a new one and keep this one alive. Anyway for those who don't know I'm 16 and bought a late 1971 240z with a L28 bottom end and a 73 e88 head. Now I have rebuilt the motor with a e31 head, new valvetrain, high lift cam but not long duration. Bottom end remains stock with flat top pistons. Twin SU carb bored by rebello, Zstory header and muffler, 2.5in exhaust with a resonator and a cutout right behind it. I'm still working on rewiring the car but I have put a AFR gauge in where the clock was and a knock sensor will be in the map light slot. A tenon amp and some old Sony speakers because I might need it. This is all that I can think of and body and suspension is my next objective. I have never seen the car running so I'll worry about rust later. Here's the car when I got it, tried to start but failed. Later found out there's rust on the 2nd cylinder...Pulled the motor myself, man that was a full day of grease and sweat! Disassembled and sent to machine shopmade a grill myself and paint the valve cover as I'm waiting.seat coversexhaust and parts...polish cylinderhead...new gauges wiring. Yep. Plan ahead or get messed up like me! Here's where I'm at, degreeing camshaft. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

No offense intended, it's a joke about Viagras ability to make an older man (or car in your case) preform like a young man (or car). If you try this beware that any effects lasting longer than 4 hours you should see your mechanic, FYI.

early 280zx can look nice lowered with zg flares

Zedy - Dave Rebello is finishing up dyno'n my engine this week that he built for me (hopefully it will ship the end of next week after the dyno). I did step up to Mikuni 44's (Custom ported 38's venturi's from Dave) with a bigger header primary, and moving to a larger exhaust as well. Really excited wiht the complete increase airflow and horsepower. Come on now........you know you want to do it!

Oh, I'm not complaining. I'm just amazed.

IMO the S30 line is the best Datsun/Nissan has ever designed. I'm into creature comforts and believe the last year production cars of a certain line are the utmost expression and refinement of that specific model. Since most buyers go for the early S30s, the law of supply and demand will allow you to buy a 280Z for less money than a similar condition 240Z. You'll spend less money and end up with the a car whose "bugs were worked out" by Nissan (great AC, reliable EFI, decent electronics, good suspension, decent wipers, etc.) and can be daily drivers without any sacrifice AND still enjoy those gorgeous lines. Eventually all S30s in comparable condition will have similar value so take advantage of the bargain, less respected 280s at this time. Other than the extreme purists, most people won't care if you're driving a 240, 260 or 280. They will just get a kick from seeing an S30 on the road and congratulate you. PS: I hope I don't offend any of the forum friends.

I'm hoping you've referenced the attached fuel system modification guide, right? Just one of the many bits of documentation that I've collected over the years. Fuel-1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf

Just amazing. I used to buy those things for $25.

So here are some photo's for grannyknot and others i dont think i have to identify the before and after. Note Paltech did not took very long to do the job I am the slowman here i am putting these in know but they were sitting here for 3 1/2 month. I am a skier and this winter was a good skier winter. I did Wrap my header while i was there because i cooked the front hose that connect to the carb for heating purpose when in cold weather last year. Looking at these photo's think i need a new radiator !

That's a good shot, showing they DO have a correct orientation. Driver's side and passenger's side, it's slight but it's there. I put one on upside down once and it caused a vacuum link.

Made in USA. Trump likes you.

"...the best and far superior to anything else in the world..."..? The products of a small company in Germany named Porsche may have slipped your memory, perhaps? A few other candidates making "production sports cars" in the same period might also be in with a shout.

Install a pet/drain-**** in the lower hose.

Can't you just slip one of these in the fuel tank?

Sorry, I don't get it. How could he have "...purchased the car new late 1969..." when it was built after July/August 1970?

There's no "mystery" here, unless we include the mystery as to why certain people won't listen to established fact and common sense. The car in question was built after one of my own cars, which was built in mid/late 1970. Nissan Shatai's own records - quoted by me in one of the previous posts on this thread - tell us what S30-prefixed chassis numbers were built on 1969 and 1970. This is a 1970 build-dated car and a mid to late 1970 build date at that. "Stone throwing"? Get a grip.

Tomo, Scanning a published book and posting it to the internet is a clear violation of federal copyright law.

You pitch me softballs and I'll hit them over the fence every day....