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That about sums it up Jai. Thanks for the memories of Jelly Bean. I wish like hell I'd gotten an older Buddy to fill in the hole she left but after seeing this picture I had to go get him. He looked so miserable. Probably still too, I keep calling him Jelly. You'll smile again real soon, there's a lot of "under loved" boys and girls out there that would make a great co-pilot for you and Red Bird.

Sounds like my son. I spent a good amount of time getting his 77 going nothing as nice as this and he didn't like it. He wanted a nice 4x4 truck which he now has. 3 years later he admits to missing it and wish he still had it. If you have the means, keep it, tell him you sold it, and put it in storage somewhere. Get classic car insurance on it and drive it to work once a week or once a month to keep things fresh and moving. Then in a few years when it comes up again you can have a nice lunch together at an outside eating establishment and park it right where he can see it. Only tell him it's yours when you get up to leave! If not then sell it. It should only go up in value.

I am selling the "Z" 1976 been restored lots of new parts. restored it for my son and he has out grown it. i guess . This site helped me so much when i was working on it want to thank every one. odo says 86000. contact info crowkent@gmail.com 8,000 OBO

I assume that's where the "endurance race" gets the name. That spindle gear endured all it could.

Beautiful photos. I was in the area once and tried to make it to the top of Pike's Peak in a rental car. It was raining at the bottom, and the ranger stopped us about 3/4 of the way to the top because it was blizzard conditions and road was closed because the snow plow slid off the side of the road. Something about the plow was trying to clear the avalanche? The thing was... They had just closed the road about a half hour before, and those who were already at the top were stuck there. Nobody up, and nobody down! I was with SWMBO, and I cannot imagine what would have happened if we were some of those stuck at the top... I'd still be hearing about it! She was already nervous about the roads and wanted to turn around. I wanted to get to the top and pressed on. If we would gotten stuck at the top, it would not have been pretty!

The Plating Process: Spent several hours yesterday (before Easter activities) prepping parts for plating. The plating is a very involved process and prep is the most important thing. Since I am doing a large number of parts, I will be sending these out for plating where they can plate these in large barrels. I have my own set-up, but it is better suited for low quantity work. The first step is to clean the oil and gunk off of the original parts. Usually I will do this by putting the parts in my paint thinner/lacquer thinner mix, using a brush to clean off the parts. This will remove most of the oily stuff and loose junk. Then I will dry the parts on a cloth. The parts need to be free of oils or they will contaminate your wire wheel. Once that is contaminated it spreads to all the parts, so this needs to be clean. I also intermittently clean the wire wheel with lacquer thinner just for good measure. After the parts are dry, I remove all the rust, paint and plating using the wire wheel. This can be a bit tricky as most of the parts are somewhat small. Typically I will wear a leather glove on my left hand and thin latex glove on the right. Goggles are a must as the little wires will occasionally fly off in addition to the debris and occasionally the part itself. A small breathing mask is also useful due to the dust. The part needs to be completely cleaned of the old material or the new zinc will not stick or look good. I also use a fiber wheel for cosmetic purposes after the parts have been wire wheeled. The fiber wheel makes surfaces super shiny which will also make the plating super shiny. Usually I will do the bolt heads and other very visible parts on the fiber wheel. At this point the parts need to be plated fairly soon or they will quickly rust. The parts are essentially naked at this point. Some people prefer to sand blast parts before plating. This is convenient for tight spaces but results in a somewhat dull finish. This is a fairly laborious process, but it's the little details that really make the car. Pics are below.

Wow that was easy (the back one anyway) Used a right angle air drill to start the pilot hole using a drill bit that fit snuggly (a tiny bit larger than the hole) after I established a good dimple I hit it again with a punch for a deeper sharper point right in the center of the dimple from the drill bit. Put in a small (1/8) reverse drill and started about 1/4" max checking by eye for square to head. Upped the bit to a couple sizes larger, opened up the hole a bit, then one more increase and the drill get stuck (air drill has low torque it seems) so I switch out to the electric VSR drill. Much harder to get in position so I am glad I had the small air drill to start and get squared up. a couple hits of the bit, it bites hard and out comes the stud just a pretty as you please. Taking a break (have to get back to work, only work on lunch hour during work days) will savor the success before moving on the front one. Will clean up the hole prob leave it at 8mm since its in such good shape. Dropped of the exh mani at the machine shop, they could not get to it for a week, so I asked about just welding on a nut and giving that a try, said they could do that today so will get it back later, then hit up JSM for his big torch to heat up mani to cherry red (no way my punk a$$ map/oxy can do that). Hopefully the guy at the shop will just take pity on me and do it while there.

In my case, further experimenting showed heat soak issues with some pretty good temperatures between the carburetors that I believe is due to the cutout on the heat shield for the exhaust manifold. I'm going to construct my own heat shield this week to try to combat the issue.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of that water based multi-grit stuff. My description would be that it's for people who are in a hurry and are willing to sacrifice some surface finish quality for speed of getting the job done. Since the only kind of that work I do is for myself, I'd rather use a much finer compound even though it takes longer. Takes longer, but the finish is better. However, that said... Someone in the business could easily convince me that it doesn't matter anymore after that valve has opened and closed a thousand times though.

What kind if money are you talking about? [emoji5]️ Skickat från min A0001 via Tapatalk

Dave, I did this job about 4 years ago on the same studs and had great success with a good set of left hand drill bits. You of course need a reversible drill. I started with a very small bit and worked my way up 3 or 4 sizes and the stud just backed out with the bit. Going slow is the key here. I replaced the studs with higher grade Nissan turbo studs I got from the dealer.

New adjusted line Thanks to 7tooZ I found my line was almost 1/4" out. I actually mounted the door panel and pulled the line along the door crease as well. Using his measurements I was able to confirm the proper line along the door and quarter panel.

Thanks for ALL of your sweet comments. She beat the odds, her vet said she was 1 of only 3 in her whole practice that cleared kidney failure. The time was fleeting tho, after 9 months it returned with a vengeance, pushing her beyond any options. Placing her pain and unhappiness as first priority over my agony of losing her, I released her to the heavens. But you know, we are given these amazing creatures to experience the love they give, they always leave before we do. It is hard, but...it is better to have loved and lost, than never to have loved at all. That is their unselfish gift. There will never be another Deanna, but there will come to me an older dog that has been abused or abandoned, with a serious need to experience love before they die. That dog, when it shows up in my life, is the next dog I will adopt. I want to gift one with love, and care for it until it passes away. In Deanna's name, it's the least I can do for a fellow traveler on our beautiful Earth. Take care my friends...

I also pulled and cleaned combination switch, nothing appears corroded, loose or broken. Also did ground test at combination connector, GL to GW and it shows grounded past switch, do I assume switch is good, in advance thanks for the help, I have worked on many old vehicles, this is first Z . It is my sons and I am trying to get street legal for my son when he returns from Marines. This was a project of his before he signed up.

So sorry to hear about Deanna.....we lost Cheyenne 9 years ago....I miss her still.....we bought Millie...another worthless flea bag that we are totally in love with....a shame dogs have such a short life span....I feel your pain.

I had this problem with 25mm fuel level on 40DCOE 151. I could not tune it out. I dropped the fuel level to 29mm and was then able to tune properly.

Damn autocorrect sucks.. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The Gnose is a thing of beauty, but it takes a hell of a commitment to get it looking right. You will be into the kit for 2500 dollars before paint. I find it very attractive, but you have to have the rest of the car to support the look. That longer front overhang will cause issues on curbs and getting her on jack stands. So while you are considering it, you must consider how you use the car and if it is worth the extra cost and trouble.

The race car has a one piece FG valance. A mold can be made if folks are looking for them. Have a 280Z one piece as well.

Thank you Stanley and yes I am. I just spoke with a guy at msa and they only have one side left no center or other side. He did say that are working on fiberglass ones at the moment for replacement of the factory style. They are hard to find but I know somewhere there's a nice set of originals out there. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Mine is from MSA, looks like the one posted by 7tooZ, except it's eaten sh#@ a few times on curbs, has a few cracks and a bandaid decal. Glad it's carbon fiber and not fiberglass, or it would have had to go in the dumpster. Looked beautiful when new.