Leaderboard

I guess I'm going to have to buy the kit off the zstore like steveJ said and get the covers and everything Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The modified backing plates are complete. I am happy with the results, they look factory. I believe having backing plates along with my MK63 caliper upgrade will enhance the overall upgrade.

So the problem was operator error. I missed that in the first read.

Most probably February 1971. According to ZHome.com HLS30-22441 is a February car and so is HLS30-23242.

I was figuring it was someone on this site. That is one heck of an effort to manage all those CL ads, wow.

Something is not right here. If you have the jump a properly wired car with the jumper cables in the correct location (in the back at the battery), you would not have much current going over the 20A contacts of the Moroso switch. It should be going to the solenoid. As I understand it, the kill switch is designed to isolate the battery from the rest of the electrical system. As a matter of fact, that is how the Moroso switch is described on Jegs.com. As for having a 100A alternator, you still should not have much current going back to the battery. If you are pulling 20 A on that connection, you have a dying or dead battery. If you are trying to use the battery kill switch as an overall kill switch, you could wire up something like the second picture. It would isolate the battery and kill the ignition. With the ignition cut, the engine stops, and the alternator stops with it.

Wrongness. Don't do this stuff. OBX, MFactory, 87-89 300ZX. Whitehead Performance. Those are your fundamental search words.

I took off the full face respirator and there was very little 'air' left in the shop! All fumes! Luckily I have a good ventilation system. Left the side door open an hour...!

What a day! Lots of progress and it feels like a major milestone too! Interior is POR'd and the rest of the vehicle is metal primed and ready for body work!

These cars can be a problem as a daily driver if you don't have an alternate for just that reason. Cutting corners on the links can burn your car down in the long run! The local parts store doesn't carry much for 40 year old Z's. If you need the parts fast pay for the faster shipping...

Finished up installing Tokicos, Eibachs and brake parts for the rear of the 73. Just bled the rear brakes. Now on to shocks, springs and new Willwood brakes for the front.

Chuck, Midwestern Council's GCR says the same thing but when it states an alternate may be used doesn't the now allow for an undated one wire GM alternator with an internal VR? With the current 40 year alternator installed might be best to change it before the season and also not having to worry about hooking up the old VR correctly.

Figuring out the fuel level in the float chamber is easy. What we really need is for somebody to come up with a mechanism that allows the float level to be adjusted needing to remove the float chamber lid.

I did but never really got a chance to try and test it, shortly after this I decided to sell that engine and go with a bmw s38 engine. I was pulling vacuum from the back of the carbs. I know I have some pics of the finished set up but can't find them at the moment, I'll post them when I do.

They think they know where it's going and want to eliminate the chaff?

Whatever you go with find someone who knows how to tune them. Best money I spent wasn't on the carbs it was on having someone who knows what they're doing tune them on a dyno.