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Dear JSM... My oh my, you guys assume that Z cars should only be owned by MEN. Not so in this case. I am a 74 you old, waiting by the phone right now for my first great grand child to be born, LADY who has had Z's all my life. Well 2 that is. My first, a 1971 240Z- Redwing took me 259,000 miles. Did you know that is almost exactly the distance to the Moon? Yes I drove to N.H., and climbed that mountain, with my son alone. No one else. I asked on the CB if I could follow a certain semi thru NYC, he said "sure if you think you can keep up". When we got thru NYC, with me still tailing him, he said "lady you are a bodacious driver!" I thanked him saying "I always wanted to be a racecar driver". His was one of the finest compliments I've ever had, made my day. Ha! And, we wore seat belts from the first moment, driving her home after my purchasing her! Sooo, now you have the straight poop.... Should I sign it Rock'in Grandma Jai ???

Completed all four corners tonight. The rear towers are a little different but still totally functional now. Fronts: Open rear hole: With coil over installed.

Rough cut for the shock towers. Looks good and the strut brace I add later will reinforce from the top too.

Thought I would post because I had some interest from some people asking if I would make these. Due to the amount of time and labor involved, it wasnt worth my while to make these for a those that asked. After all I have a project to work on of my own and other things I could be doing besides work . These inner rocker panels are replacements for a 240z as the pictures attached are those of my car. I am unsure about the 260z and 280z whether these would fit them or not. Please chime in if your certain to let others know. If enough people are seriously interested in getting these from me then please post up or send me a PM, if not then I guess this thread will be closed down. The inner rocker panels are constructed from 18g cold rolled sheet (CRS) metal which is just a tad thicker than the factory material (at least on my 240z). I use cold rolled as it is supposed to be a bit stronger than hot rolled and cold rolled has a smoother finish. These are not an exact match to the factory panels but close enough. The seat belt mounting plate is made from 1/8" (CRS) and the nut for the seat belt bolt is a harden Nut. If your Z suffers from rotted out rusted inner rockers then these panels would be great, save you the hassle of trying to do a questionable patch job... Price wise as of now looking at $380.00 shipped anywhere in the USA (out of Country may be subject to higher shipping rate) mainly because shipping a long box (60") like this is a bit pricey, but this is based on estimated shipping cost with Fedex, actual cost may differ which means if its lower then I can knock the price down. boxes and packaging material will be at my expense to ensure the panels arrive safely. Please note I do not have any already made except the ones pictured which are for my car. Let me know what you think and feel free to ask questions. I will keep this updated when it comes time to submit an order, if it gets this far. Thanks for Look!

Just bought a 72 240z, I need help in a bad way Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Oh that's right! Sorry I should have recalled the other post. You should have your screen name be "ClassicZCarGrandma" My mom is 74 too. Thanks for the classy correction!

Oh sorry. I thought I read you, your son and wife went on the trip. Even at 5 or 6, the edge of the deck rail would kill the back of your legs! I don't ever recall wearing seat belts until the early 80's.

Yeah, I saw those, too! I had an alert for carsforsale, and like 5 different 240z's popped up as new listings on the same day. All of them are listed in Jacksonville, however, with the same phone number. I tried texting and calling that number but it wasn't a valid number. Then, I tried the dealership listed which looks like it's based out of New Jersey, and no one picked up there either. The cars look awesome, but something seems fishy. The yellow one had a winning bid on eBay two years ago for $11,200. This is that same car being sold now: https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/28590145

You've got a bit of work ahead of you. I've seen rust on fenders, rockers, doors, radiators, control arms, etc. but this is the first time I've seen rust on an oil filter. This tells us two things: 1. The oil filter seal is OK 2. We'd all like to see photos of the engine once you get it disassembled.

Jai, be sure to budget in a transmission gear oil change too. Who knows when or if it was ever changed.

Baby got her first Bling!

I missed the CB antenna. It really dates the pictures. That was a big antenna to be on a car. Powerful CB to back it up?

I love this style of bushings. Have been using them since the mid-90's on all of my Camaro autocross/hillclimb cars. Many of my competitors also use them These really are a superior bushing for the street. Poly deflects too much and has other issues. Monoballs are fine for dedicated track cars, but tend to transmit too much noise on the street. Plus they do wear out over time. The Del-A-Lum bushings ( Ground Control has them for Domestics and Bimmers ) use a thin Delrin liner which is greasable. Delrin is much stiffer than Poly and is self lubricating. I just got off the phone with a buddy of mine. He just pulled the Del-A-Lum bushings out of his 1981 Trans-Am ( Hillclimb/Autocross/ Track Day car ) . 200,000 km on them and they look like new. Never any issues with squeaking. I've gone from Poly LCA bushings to Del-Alum and the difference in stiffness was noticable. Plus no binding at all in the LCA. Might be a market for these if someone made them for Z cars and 510's. Relatively easy to machine up. I'd certainly buy a set.

A window sill can be replaced, not my doodle. He's so much different personality than Jelly was. Took some getting used to but I love it now, he's a silly goose like me but sober. We're in the bed watching American Dad now, he likes cartoons as much as me but he likes the visual, I like the no anxiety and laughing. "That's all folks" should be the end of the day for everyone not just Porky Pig. Cheers!

Siteunseen, thanks for pics of heat sheild. I am doing a once over with my friend on Sunday morning. Still need to install pcv pipe and bleed brakes and clutch. Then we will see how well we put it back together. I want to go back and redo a few things once its running again... I may look into the silicone hose Chickenman spoke of. I have a few parts I may take off and replace just to freshen up or shoot with some paint. I am tracking down a few factory engine bay stickers right now for a little extra detail. I think in the end I saw the project through as much as I had hoped to. My one weakness I would say is the intake manifold, I cleaned it best I could for having fuel rail and everything still attatched to it. It was super tough to clean. I also want to say for anyone doing exhaust in the future, the MSA premium exhaust system is top notch! I installed it by myself in a little over an hour and it fits perfect on a 75. I bolted up the 2 pipes together on the floor, zip tied the back pipe up to the control arm while attatched to my MSA 6 to 1 header. I knew ahead of time the muffler would be on an angle thanks to threads I found on this site. So I fitted the muffler to where I wanted it and started clamping, easy peasy! Here are the last of the pics, hopefully my pooches won't tell anyone how many times the diff was in and out of the car fighting that r180 mustache bar. I'm also hoping the left over bolts in the drawer aren't needed. THANKYOU EVERYONE FOR ALL YOUR RESPONSES TO MY PROJECT THREAD, WHAT A GREAT HELP YOU ALL ARE!! I HOPE THIS WILL HELP SOMEONE ELSE IN THE FUTURE LIKE ME (NON MECHANIC) COMPLETE A SUSPENSION PROJECT.

Oh yeah, Buddy says hey!

What is your budget?

You're right. That oil filter needs new paint. Good luck!

Hey Z members, Just wanted to let you all know that I have 1 set of inner rocker panels available. made two sets for two customers, decided to make an extra, below are pictures of the general process that goes into making these. The parts at the end get coated with Bloxide rust preventative weldable primer to keep from rusting during shipping and before installation. You have the option to purchase the panels with what I call tie in plates/support plates. There is a front end plate and a rear end plate on each passenger and driver side. The front plates I am selling for $25 each and the rear plates for $10 each, so a total of $70 for all four corners. The fronts are more pricey due to it being larger and containing more dimple holes and beads. These are what the outer and inner rocker panels mostly weld on to. I Do not have any pictures to show of it, but will post some up later of what they look like. chances are that if your replacing your rocker panels, the tie in plates will be rotter as well, great chance to weld in some new ones.