Leaderboard

Takhli, I recommend that you get yourself a small granite surface plate for that kind of work. Haha! I'm no machinist or engine builder, and I have one. And despite the picture of that beautiful Starrett that you and I would both probably love to have, I'm not suggesting you need to spend big bucks. But I do think seventy dollars would be well spent to purchase a small import. For $67 plus shipping, here's a 12 x 9 x 2 thick example from MSC. "Shop or Toolroom Grade, 0.0001 Inch Unilateral Tolerance, Includes Certification": http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00150003 That would be large enough to do things like adjust thrust bearings and check main caps for flatness, etc. And according to your claims about your door, it would certified to be at least twenty-five times more accurate. Matthew, I'm a little reluctant to go into any of the other stuff above because the storm that I ignited seems to have passed and I certainly don't want those clouds to come back. But I wanted to explain that as a fellow Z enthusiast and member of this forum community, my loyalty is to you. With that in mind, I saw a questionable tool being used by someone in your employ for something important to you, and as your ally, I thought it would be a good idea to suggest the correct tool. It's easier to get good results using the correct equipment in good condition. It's the less common guy who can get the same good results from sub-standard equipment by making up for shortcomings with understanding, expertise, careful technique, and of course... Time. Based on the workmanship details posted so far, I suspect Takhli actually IS one of those less common guys who has a true understanding of the concepts behind what he is doing and can get the same results from sub-standard equipment. But even with that as a possibility, I just want to make sure you are getting what you're paying for. It's also potentially future trouble for other people trying to use the same alternative tools without having the understanding and expertise necessary to achieve the desired results. In other words, I don't think the phrase "Hey, take this over to that door over there and make sure it's flat." should become common workmanship instruction in the world of engine building. nor do I expect to find that suggestion in engine building instruction literature. But the bottom line is that I want you to be happy with what you get, and was just trying to help achieve that end

I believe that the internally regulated alternator "senses" the voltage drop of the battery and regulates the charging voltage to the battery, preventing overcharging. This keeps the voltage output of the alternator around 13.8v while charging and prevents the battery from draining while the vehicle is running. The field wire is designed to detect the sine wave of the charging come from the properly working alternator (alternating square wave, AC voltage). The dash light illuminates, indicating a "no charge" condition when the car is not running or if the alternator is malfunctioning. The alternator is never connected directly to the harness in terms of charging any electrical items other than the battery. The current is then drawn from the battery through the fuse block and throughout the harness. A larger alternator will have a greater CAPACITY to support a larger load of electronics (bigger headlights, bigger stereo, electrical fans, power accessories...) but it will not force any of the existing electronics and wiring to use any of the extra capacity of the alternator. It will only provide more power when needed versus the stock size alternator. Different size wires in the harness are used because each device draws a different amount of current, some requiring a thicker gauge of wire to prevent overheating. You can have two wires connected to the battery for example, one for the starter and one for the engine bay amp. One is super thick and one is very thin. They are both connected to the same battery but each DRAWS a different current amount to operate. Therefore the wire is matched to the draw of the device, NOT the output of the alternator or capacity of the battery. Think of it as a larger gas tank.... does the same thing as a smaller tank, only lets you go farther! The bigger alternator just lets you consume more power when NEEDED....

I think one can be excused for not owning a $2,000 to $6,000 work surface in their home workshop. We're Datsun owners after all. I also think we can discuss precision and ways to achieve it regardless of the tools used as long as we achieve it, right? We will show our work from now on, though, because you are correct that if this is going to function as an accurate resource for others it needs as much information as possible. --- So, I made some more progress on our build choices today by choosing and ordering my camshaft! We talked to and researched tons of places: Isky, Colt, Delta, Comp Cams, Web, Schneider, etc. etc. etc. Here are the highlights that led to my decision: Isky: I found lots of really great information, including a huge history of the firm's background in developing Z cams in the 70s, on the various forums, and was 100% sold on them. Initially Ron was quick to respond so we sent three cam shafts to them for evaluation last fall, and then... nothing. Silence. They had them for months and we just could not make contact to get the work done nor the grind profile chosen. We finally got through and after trying to move it forward felt like they just didn't want to do the job, so we requested the cams returned. Supposedly they went into the mail today. So then we looked at the others and I dug around on the forums. After talking to a ton of people about the right numbers for this engine I landed on either the 260 or 280 grinds from Comp Cams. Then I started digging into that and found a LOT of negative feedback in various Datsun and other forums, specifically that the metal is really soft and tends to fragment. Since it seems all of the new billets come from one supplier, this put me back on the regrind path. In the process of finding this out I had found out about Colt. I called them up and had a weird conversation that was dismissive of my project. I've read that people have had great results but I just didn't get a great vibe, plus the guy's insistence on switching to roadster springs put me off. He might be right, but he just wanted me to take his word for it. I couldn't find enough information about their product to do that, other that it's a solution to get around the coil bind his high-lift causes with factory springs and in-machines heads. The same day I started talking to Delta and had a great experience. John was always available to talk to me (when their phone system wasn't crashing), answered all of my questions with tons of detail, and even discussed how I might go with other grinders to get what I was after. The fact that he wanted me to have the best grind for my needs whether it was his or not meant a lot, and after looking at his grind against several other ones I was considering I felt that if his numbers are right then I will be in good shape. The open question is that last bit. The only negative criticism I've seen of Delta (other than other grinders talking trash) is that the numbers don't match what they advertise, possibly due to being based on a 1.6 rocker ration rather than the 1.429 I've seen as spec. This feedback was about 12 years ago, and it seems that they've figure it out since. The feedback I've seen more recently seems to be really positive. Oh, and they supplied the cam. I didn't have to send one. So I ordered the 268 grind with .430 lift. I don't have the rest of the specs readily available but I'll post them when I get the cam, provided it is correct and we don't have to adjust anything. I have good feelings about this. Great service (so far), great price, no mailing cams around, and a profile I feel good about. Now we wait to see how it turns out. If it isn't 100% awesome, I'll run it to break in the engine and upgrade after the car is done if I'm bored.

I think the image link of your car broke because I'm not seeing it (although I see it in your signature when I use my laptop), but yes that's the same car. I stumbled upon that series of photographs when I was looking for a 911 project can and it pretty much convinced me there and then to drop the Porsche hunt and go find a Z. I really wanted one when I was a kid, but somehow I totally forgot until I saw this.

Guide wires. I read an interview with Dale Earnhardt Jr. where the reporter wrote when he was young and wasn't close to his Dad they could be barely afford to pay their "fire bill". He said power bill.

If one go's to a bigger alternator, you will need bigger wiring ... standard is 60 amps, you don't need more.. When you do, and i speak here as an electrician, you will have a fair chance that one day you car catches fire.. If you want more reserve power, go for more led-lights, you save a lot of Amps there for that loud stereo! and you're wiring thanks you...

nailed it! +1

I put some assembly lube on there. It says that it can be used on bearings and cam lobes. Vr1 with some redline break in lube seems like a safe choice for oil. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So many jokes……. so little time

I wonder what that bill was! My son ran off the road and took out a light pole. $6K for a light pole. If I would have known that I would have went and grabbed it for scrap since it was all aluminum! i was not happy! I'm just glad he was alright and no one else was involved.

In regards to fitment....twice pipes fit really well in transmission tunnel but ran smack into differential flange. Had to cut and re angle pipes towards drivers side .... under factory exhaust cut out in differential mount/crossmember. And obviously a little lower too. Was installed by a reputable shop that only works on z cars. Was a 240z (earlier model) at shop that also had same problem... .... Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks! And WOW, that is VERY reasonable!!

To be clear - I went in to detail because Takhli writes like he would want to discuss these things. If you're going to describe how you finessed a a part down to 0.0005" precision you should be happy that there's someone out that can appreciate it. That's a measurement that will change if you breathe on it. It's surprising that he wouldn't appreciate the suggestion of granite surface plate. The proper responsive would have been "I wish I had one of those". The response that came instead makes one wonder. That's what these forums are for. To discuss these things and learn some new things. Alright. Moving on now.

I agree glad too see this, but can someone add who what when were just the facts maybe some music also. I think it will make watching more enjoyable. Good job KATS

They originate in the UK, small company and hand-made.

WOW! SF hill climbing, pulling parts from a crate, at track with BRE... incredible!

Very bold. I like that orange a lot as well. The thing about the original paint is that I always wish it was a little milder. I see pictures of 432s and Zs in yellow, Mexican Orange, Red, and that weird in-between red-orange all over and I have found that I can't land on which one I like best. All I know is that sometimes when I go into my garage I am not 100% in love with the orange that is in my door jambs and inside the engine bay. My ferret picture of an orange Z is this one of the 432R, which feels much mellower than what is on my car (but it's probably just the lighting): I think the Anrancio Borealis kind of captures that subdued tone better than other things I've looked at , such as the 2017 Nissan Monarch Orange.

Intermittent wiper control using the diagram on 91 civic wiper mod. Park relay is tucked under the dash. The Old intermittent relay works just fine but more adjustability is welcomed. Put it under the steering column for now. And PWM led dash light dimmer using woodworkerb's diagram. I changed all the bulbs in the dash and it's too damn bright! And lastly the center panel with some switch on it. I won't use the fuse box location as it's too small. So a few switches for launch rpm control, dash light, etc. Oh, The Grand Tour had it's final episode of the first season. Gotta wait for the next episode now... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The phone app really screws up the order of pictures and words... Here's some pictures I took on a sunny day in autumn. Oh, and here's how you pull the front radiator support strait! . Well I guess I have to make a new one and wield it... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Palatine, IL is my shipping address. I'm not running any center box or resonator right now, just the MSA 6-2-1 header and 2.5" piping to the muffler. I'm also running Weber 45s and oversize valves, so this could add to the noise level as well. Gav, As far as highway drone goes, its very minimal. The loudness only really comes to life when you get on it, and at higher RPM. At cruising speeds its sounds mean, but not obnoxious by any means.

not yet. Very busy working. Still have to buy the pair of rubber hoses and fittings. I think they ar 3/8! I did received some stainless Steel bolts from zcardepot. Supplier is excellent! However, the head of the bolts he sent me are 13mm bolts instead of the original 12mm bolts. Should i stick with the original ones that are rusted and which head is 12mm or will this 13mm head fit fine?

I believe my vacuum is okay as I did the test where you remove the oil cap to see if the engine sound changes, and mine nearly died when i removed the cap. Sorry, I should have stated mine is a 1976 280z so I don't believe it has the EGR coupler issues. I will look into the timing and research how to adjust valve lash. Thank you for the replies.