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I had installed an MSA short shifter kit about a year and a half ago and noticed that the rod supplied by MSA was curved differently from the stock shifter which positioned it about 2.5 inches forward from the stock neutral position, The first pic shows the forward position of the short shifter with the car in neutral. The second picture compares the new black rod to the superimposed chrome OEM rod. This forced me to stretch forward to shift into first, third and fifth gear, and to pull the knob backward with the tips of my fingers when downshifting into second and fourth gear. So even though I liked the feel of the short throw associated with this shifter rod, the experience was tolerable but definitely not comfortable. Called MSA and they said most people had no complaints but other people had in fact decided to bend the rod. I could not find references in the forum. I finally decided to take my center console apart once again and take out the shifter. Using the chrome stock shifter as the model I heated the MSA rod and gave it two different bends and one twist until the correct form was achieved. After a little polishing and a couple of coats of satin black lacquer I'm ready to mount again in a much more ergonomic position. I'll post final pics tomorrow and report on the degree of comfort.

I'll have to see if it's in the garage or if I lent it out. it worked on my 1.5 inch coolant tubes too, even though the bracket was for a 2.5inch exhaust, which I used for my 2.5inch IC piping on the 'ole Z31 Turbo. RE fitting issue: Get an M10 banjo to M10 inverted flare fitting from a Mazda Miata brake master cylinder, circa 1998. It will work on a 3/8-24 banjo bolt, they're interchangeable with M10 banjo bolts as far as the banjo seal goes. This will let you go M10 all the way to the slave cylinder. Had to do the same on another vehicle with a Girling slave cyl and we ran into the same issue you're facing now with the washer bottle- but the strut tower was in the way, so it was the best option. Love that flaring tool, btw. My friend has one, and its a joy to use.

Ah, ok I didn't know there was a transmission-side update too. It would be good to get this feedback to MSA. I'm tagging @James@TheZStore to see if we can help them get this part updated.

Positive update, i went digging through the electrical rats nest that the previous owner turned the wiring by the fuse box into, when I found out that when I moved the harness, i could hear the fuel pump waivering, i chased the connection back to where the FP ties in, and they had used a funky connecter where you strip the end of one wire, the middle of a live line, set them next to eachother, then fold a strip of metal across them both, and its all encased in a little box which I had previously thought was a fuse or resister. So i tore that out and properly sodered it, as well as all the other wires that had been connected like that, and one with a small twist connection that was coming apart, suddenly the fuel pump does not waver when moving the harness, and my turn signals work again. I have no idea which systems I effected while under there, however my car has had no running issues since then (though it has only been a short time so far), I hope it serves as a warning to those to always properly wire electrical systems, with solder, because it can cause nightmare to diagnose intermittent failures for you later on, or the next poor person who has the car.

http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/the-datsun-240z-one-of-the-greatest-sports-cars-ever-made.html/?ref=YF&yptr=yahoo

Do the 240 and 280 have different positions for the shifter too? I thought the 280 was a little farther forward than the 240?

I have a feeling that the touchy clutch engagement is due to the clutch and not the flywheel. I'm running a 10lb Fidanza with a stock clutch (at 194hp/180lb-ft at the wheels BTW) and engagement is nice and smooth. FWIW...

You need a spare stock engine for inspection time

Mike W did a write up a little while back on the Suaoki mini ultra portable booster packs. Myself, Zup & 2 friends have bought one since.

The pressure should be the same throughout the system. When you pressure test it, the system should be cold, and don't pressurize it beyond 13 or 14 lbs. (normal system pressure)

As long as the heater core is part of the cooling system plumbing, the pressure will be the same everywhere - radiator, hoses, thermostat, ...etc. Absolutely get that core pressure tested just as you would with the radiator. A good radiator shop should be able to clean and test it properly.

I'd be interested in a zinc or cadmium plated kit, and imagine many others would be too. Stainless is nice and all, but doesn't it interact with some other metals in an undesirable way, and have less tensile strength than regular steel?

The BaT car has different bumpers, wipers and a passenger side mirror and the paint is in much better shape but it might be the same car,

Nice! Looks like new.......as best I can remember from 45 years ago when I picked mine up from the dealer. Dennis