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hello my friends Thought to open a new topic rather than continue my Z progress in the introduction area...you can see how I started there Introduction This is a copy of my last reply in the introduction... sorry to duplicate it but I have to start this topic with something I knew it was going to be a slow progress due to the lack of time... I do all the things on my own and since I have a family with two little boys, the time for my Z is very limited. So, all this time I did the following tasks Removed the factory tar insulation to check for hidden rust Epoxy primer everywhere... Then painted original silver (the oem color is silver) New tar insulation On top of that I added an extra thermal/ noise insulation and I hope tomorrow find time to finish with the jute carpet padding on floors and tunnel I finished the dash, I am really happy with the result... before and after

Front frame rail strengthening plate over the steering rack. Rough cuts and welds...

a little more i got my rocker arms back from delta cams, very nice. $50 plus my shipping to them sill plates after some metal work and sand blasting. they were in bad shape. they should look ok after sanding down the ridges and high spots outside upper door trim. tweaker paint now removed and all the scratches sanded out. look 100% better. but i may still go for new

You're considering several different categories of car. The 240Z is the basic, no frills, carb'ed "pure" sports car that Nissan intended. A 280Z is essentially a refined 240Z, with EFI and its associated blandness. A 300ZX is more like a modern car, smooth, quiet, even more bland. The Porsches are a different kind of car, more "engineered" than the Z's, which tend to take the simple route to accomplish an objective. These are all "old" cars though, compared to the computer-controlled vehicles today. You're going to have to learn on the fly to keep any of them running well, unless you find a shop nearby that can work on one. You might consider that in your choice. Find a shop that can help, then choose a car that fits the shop. Or pick the car you want and learn how to make it work. Some of the ideas you're throwing out are a bit exotic and knowledge-intensive, like the RB26 or the twin turbo 300ZX. Even a carb'ed 240Z takes some learning.

Thank you Gents, great suggestions as always. I almost went with the soft SS line from BrakeQuip but really like that warm colour of the Cunifer from Fedhill, also ordered all the fittings from them as well. Eastwood has a sale on their K Tool Pro brake flaring setup, so ordered that. I'll be able to make brake lines for anyone! I went through all the brake and clutch lines this morning and found out that some PO had cut off the stock 3/16th x10mm fittings on the rear brake lines and replaced them with some weird fittings that worked with the flexible rubber brakes hoses he used at the time, after I figured that out I grabbed all 8 lines and pitched them in the snow. Done.

Here is a Calendar clock modified to suit an early S30Z dashboard. @zclocks did this for me. Great work as always. If I wanted the look of the Rally Clock, but didn't have the budget to justify 1 (and they are pretty expensive now). I'd do this in a heart beat. Looks great and is probably more reliable too! I'm just a stickler for the twin knob clock with the movable dial face and the hum of the oscillator. Geez that all sounds a bit rude.

This is for your 240z? Did you know that that syle clock (calendar clock) was made for 74-76 S30's and not the 240. In these pictures the calendar clock has 00125 printed on it and the middle clock is a stock jeco 240z clock. The benzel would have to be changed and modified. The 240z benzel has 2 mounting screw in different locations whereas the calendar clock has 3 mounting screws. Also, a new plexiglass lens would have to be used inside the old 240z benzel.Also, the 240z mount would have to be attached to the backside of the calendar clock. The second photo is the calendar clock beside a 240z rally clock. Notice the calendar clock is a little longer too. Now having said all that, I do believe a 240z rally clock housing could be used and not need any modifications. But those things are few and far between nowdays. It would be a cool addition to a 240z because the clock fonts look very similar to the rally clock but it's a bit of work. It wouldn't work for the purists that only use parts that came with the car but i think it would look cool. Oh and for those that seek perfection... the calendar clock only has a 31 day month. For shorter months you have to advance it to the next day. Beautiful analog!

Yes I'll have to come up with something like that, there is lots of room in front of the rad for an airbox just no room for a 3"dia air tube to get past the rad unless I cut through the fender again I have started work on the exhaust system, I have never welded stainless steel before and man it's a bit of a pain, completely different animal then carbon steel. Hard as a chisel, heats up really fast, hangs on to that heat, burns through if you don't use the lightest touch but sure cleans up nice. I could not run a bead on this thin walled tubing without having blobs form inside and narrowing the passage so had to do a series of short tack welds with a couple of seconds between each one so I wouldn't break through. After some grinding,

Porsches all sound like Volkswagen Beetles

Picked up a 10 tonne press this weekend. Good sale on at Canadian Tire I also have been working on a centre valance sourced from @zKars along with the side nacelles from another member. @Patcon supplied me with the lower rad support centre support for the valance earlier this year (I think? lol) and I now have all the missing pieces to reconstruct the front end! I am soooo excited to have the parts in place (minus the 240 chrome bumper form FutoFab) to finish the front end. Big thank you to all the people that helped out with the parts and @Eurodat for the custom 240 bumper mounting system. Still trying to muddle through the metal work. Lots to do and so little time these days it seems. Looking forward to having the front frame section replaced by Christmas...

The question is, "What do you want?" If you have 20K to spend and you want a fast, trouble free car you could pick up a 350 or 370z. I just found a 370z NISMO for 25K on CL in Doylestown. It'll give those Porches a run for their money and spend a lot more time on the road in the next 20 years for a lot fewer dollars.

so have made some progress on the car, still did not run right, after cleaning the tank, fuel pressure was sometimes low and was getting worse, so I put a new ( old ) fuel pump and a new fuel filter, and added a clear pre-pump filter on the car. it is running even better. got the front calipers re-built. had to pick thru my pile of caliper pistons to find some that were not too pitted. question, does anybody sell new pistons ? I am running out of good ones, was thinking about having a set made out of 304 stainless. ( buddy has a machine shop ) started working on the rear brakes. and the curse of the stuck pistons raised its head. modified a puller to work on the drums but still not go. need to get some heat on there next I patched up the drivers side floor pan for the short term so my feet dont fall thrugh ! found a great way to get the tar pad off, I have read all the forums on using dry ice etc. but that would require me going to buy the stuff, that was not going to happen, so I got out the trusty needle scaler. worked like a charm, if you get the right angle on the leading edge, it falls off like crazy. cut out some sheetmetal and pop riveted in place and Voila a temporary floor !

Eiji is someone to trust, too. Several of us can vouch for him.

not much happening lately. im still waiting on my head to get done, and the fuel tank (going on 6 weeks). so, im getting a few of the little things done my new cam has holes for oiling so i tapped and plugged the holes in the cam towers. 6mm set screw with blue locktite, and a cap over that just in case got the hood hinges powder-coated and installed temperature sending unit and thermo-couple switches in the lower radiator hose here is something i just happened to notice. these are the throttle arms off of the webers. 2 were the same length, but the 3rd was a bit longer. i bet that could cause some problems with tuning i finally found the correct neutral safety switch. this is a normally closed switch. it came from virginia. supposedly the only one in the usa new overflow tank and fuel pressure regulator and gauge