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I have sort of stayed out of this, but anyway. I don't think the question is "silly". If I owned #26 I would do all I could before I gave up and watched her burn on the side of the road (I am not trying to be insulting, I just don't like the idea of not trying), but that is sort of my personality. I have had fires in cars that were easily fought with a small fire extinguisher. I think a lot depends on what caused the fire,and what is feeding the fire. Is there an electric fuel pump, is it still running? Like SteveJ I have seen electrical fires that would be easy to deal with, versus a race car with a fuel or oil fire that pumps a lot of combustibles. Just my opinion but if the welding gloves help and they're not in the way take'em, if not, don't. We routinely use them in our fireplace and pick up glowing pieces of wood to adjust the fire. Easy on , easy off, still faster than waiting on first responders...

I came across this tech article and it says it applies to 280Z and ZX, thought some of you might find this of use. http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm

I had the leak on my 1976 280Z. It turned out it was coming from the electrical connections on the sending unit. There are small O-rings under the riveted connections that dry out and crack. I used JB Water Weld which is designed to seal Water, Oil, Gas, Diesel, Hydraulic Fluids and most chemicals. It is a two part epoxy and will cure under water. Regular JB Weld products will disintegrate with prolonged contact with Gasoline. I removed the sending unit and wire brushed all an area around the electrical contacts on both the inside and outside of the sending unit housing. Then I applied a bead of the Epoxy around both sides of each contact. Seems to be working. So far I've had this applied for two years and no further leaks. But I'm still on the look out for a NOS sending unit. http://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty

It's hard to know your missing something when it's not there to begin with. Been there many times. Unfortunately I do not know of a fix for that sleeve. Maybe somebody here does and they will chime in. Until then, I know of two places for that part. Not outrageously expensive but not exceptionally cheap either. Zcar Source for new or used http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/8/stype/product/?searchVar=door+striker and Z car Depot https://zcardepot.com/interior/door-parts/door-striker-latch-oem-77-78.html.

Perhaps I am using the wrong terminology. The o-ring has to be held between the tank and the sender unit to seal. Either the lock ring or the tank has ramps (wedges) that the other half rides on to make the seal when you rotate the lock ring. As you tighten the ring those tabs (shown in Ramsesosirus's photo) go past the end of the ramps and fall into a depression which prevents the lock ring from rotating the other way.

I am not sure I want to follow this path. When I started looking into it I had space to store an LD28 and time to eBay the excess parts. Since then my dad went out and bought a turbo engine (I'll admit it was a good deal) that we didn't need and filled that space. I also missed out on all the cheaper ones I found in the beginning of my investigation. The NOS leads I had turned out to not be real, getting one from New Zealand is possible, but more of a pain and time suck than I am willing to put into it, and then I just realized yesterday that you have to grind the inside of the block if you don't bore to 88mm, which isn't ideal. But, I also know people like to do this, so if someone wants these four engines and wants to pass a crank my way I'll make it happen. The New Zealand angle is interesting because I found 6 LD28s for sale right now for an average price of $300. They seem to be swimming in them over there. My friends who fly back and forth regularly were up to the challenge for getting them to the states, but in the end I think the price per crank would have been too close to the potential resale price to make it worth doing, and in order to get costs down you would really have to get a bunch of them. Bringing one over is easier but basically $800 for an unseen part. In the end I'll probably forego it unless I can get one sub $400, but it was an interesting exercise to go through.

Ball and socket is even better!

I just used my hand to tighten most of the way, and then some water pump pliers set wide open to get on the tangs for the last few degrees. I stopped at the tabs indicated. the hardest part was keeping the gasket in place. I used a little dab of fuel resistant gasket sealer to make sure it did not get displaced. no leaks so far.

I know this is an old post. read this and had to join to add my two cents. you can weld trough cured (3-4 days) POR-15, like a weld-thru primer. you'll have to recoat to cover your weld, but if you got a good ground, weld away. keep it cool, as usual, spot welding is best, and you wont burn to much paint away.

Around here, even considering asking about something, like in this topic, is enough to start the name-calling, so carefully consider what you ask so you don't get called "silly." But some people think anything or everything is "silly." OTOH, I always recommend to people with classic cars to carry a fire extinguisher, and the looks you get suggest that I'm calling them stupid of that I think their vehicle is a fire hazard. Certainly, any vehicle that uses a combustible fuel and is older than, say, 1 day, ought to have a fire extinguisher, if not for your own safety, but for others.

For closure, here's some fresh pics of the tension rod bushings showing how the bushings should be installed. Thicker rubber sides outwards, and the washers concave in pushing towards the rubber. Smaller support washers on first and last: Here's how it should look if you're doing half-n-half with rubber and poly. Poly in the front, rubber in the back: And here's a shot of mine on the car:

Other than the wrong front brake pads and the booster leaking, race car ran great. Swapped out the 4:38 for the 4:11 diff, got the rotors turned, waiting on the new custom pads which leaves just the booster, brake ducts and the new side mirrors to install before giving it a quick once over and a cleaning.

This is a very good subject. For under $500 you can buy a Fire Suppression system to protect your investment: https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/safety-equipment/section/fire-extinguishers/part-type/fire-suppression-systems?N=4294951274%2B4294951080%2B4294809008&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending&retaillocation=int

Ah man it's horrible. My batteries go dead during the months of July and August but that's only 2 months out of 12, not so bad. I read a couple of days ago about some kind of "heat dome" that's formed above the Mid-West and wouldn't you know it my part of Alabama is included.

Did not even think of that, good idea. Funny thing, I too was chasing a fuel leak. Seemed to come and go, figured it was the sending unit as I noticed it with a full tank. At 1st I could not see any problem with the O ring, but closer exam showed very fine cracks. Replaced it and that stopped the full tank leak. Next it was a leak that happened all the time but this time it seemed to originate at the fuel drain plug. The fuel drain being the lowest point was where the 1st leak showed up, but this time it was dry all around except at the fuel drain. Turned out the little washer had a crack in it as well. I found an o ring that fits but that is temp until I can get down to a hardware store more a more perm fix. Will also coat the thread with some sealant next time its empty and replacing the washer.

Part number for the O-Ring is 17342-18000. Bonzi Lon

So I welded the pin holes in the tank. Luckily no explosion. It appears that the cleaning and coating I did a couple years ago may be ok but the G3 filter should tell the real story. Everything should be back together by the weekend. One question, is there any test to prove if the pickup line has a hole? Only other concern I have on the tank at this point. Thanks.