Leaderboard

sold out right now but I will be making some new plastic horn pad replacements rings this weekend. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4432194 steve

#19 seems to be the bottom piece of the assembly, and they're the same. So it looks like you might be able to use the compete horn assembly. But I think that the 280Z "button" is bigger than 240Z. It might look like a giant marshmallow in the middle of your 240Z wheel. Look at part #2 on the #1 wheel page. They show the progression of horn buttons. Which also seems to imply that all of those buttons will work on the early wheel. So, guessing, it looks like those parts will work. Cliff/siteunseen would know. He has early and late cars. Quite a collection. But he started beers hours ago and it's late over there. Might have to wait.

Great info all! I plan to stop by the z shop shortly to try a couple of your suggestions, I'll let you know what I learn. Sounds like the first order of business is to assess power. So I'll try getting the horn to work with screwdriver first, then if no luck check connection and fuse box. If still no luck, sounds like I may have become an electrical sleuth and try my luck at the diagram. All of this information and postings gives me a great place to start! Im off on another z adventure! Z u later! Thanks! K The lil z lady!

I got first dibs if you are going to throw it away . Seriously, hope you get her fixed and fixed right. You'll probably really like the set up once she's running right.

Of course I should add the obligatory picture

The ID numbers are but the parts themselves may not be to spec. The head was probably skimmed, raising the compression ratio, for example. You have a custom engine now, F54, P79, etc. are irrelevant.

Already miss knowing that he's there to set bad advice right, confirm good advice, or to just add something significant to a topic, from his years of experience. He was active on all three of the forums I roam around and his posts were always worth reading.

here's my take on it. You mentioned "Replaced the flasher" but what did you replace it with? I would highly suggest an electronic turn signal flasher (EF32) it's a 2 pin HD flasher that doesn't require as much amperage to operate and is a more consistent flash from 9 to 15 volts. Play with the hazard switch. The turn signals go through it (IIRC) and can affect the output of the turn signal switch. Make sure you have a good strong 12 volts going to the turn signal flasher. Test your turn signals with the car running, even revving the motor over 1000 RPM's will give you a better, more realistic reading. Your switch is fine and it looks like you're lacking voltage somewhere before the switch or the output is being affected by the hazard. These are my best guesses. Let us know what you find, Dave

Uh-oh. I should have stuck with my instinct. Hope she didn't buy that 77 button. Are you saying it didn't fit? Or that it did but looked horrible? If the three stand-offs that fit in the holes are on the wheel, which they seem to be in her case, it should still slip on if there's room.

The information probably exists elsewhere on this site but, for the sake of this discussion, here's a quick comparison of an early, smaller pad (48410-E4600) which fits my '72 wheel and a later pad. No info on the second one because it came in a grab-bag of odd parts. I tried to make it work on the '72 wheel -- before I node better

You may get a reply from Dave by tagging @Zs-ondabrain. The search on here isn't too good and thats being polite to Mike. I use google.com and add "classiczcars.com" at the end of my query. Good luck.

I think that it would be fair and appropriate to contact Datsun Spirit and see what they say. Post #13 says that he built the short block. Finding rings in the pan means that the piston must have broken all the way up to the ring lands. That's a big deal. #5 and 6 are the detonation cylinders though. A perfect engine with a bad tune will still detonate and break things. One tank of low octane a hot day and some hills could do it also. But at least confirm that you didn't get scammed with paperwork for a different short block. Could be that Datsun Spirit did not actually build that engine. Just trying to be fair overall. If this was a California Datsun engine we'd be tearing in to Al right now.

RIP John Coffey ! You never know when you'r gonna go.. but 56 is to quick ! I hope he's with Mr.K out there..

Got a call this morning bright and early. Rings from #6 were broken and in oil pan. #6 piston has a cracked skirt. #5 piston skirt is also cracked with damaged, but still in place rings. Mechanic called to ask if he could proceed to remove the rest of the pistons to inspect the remaining pistons and cylinders. Obviously I said yes. He said the #6 cylinder didn't actually look too bad, and will most likely be fine with a good honing, and the rods and bearings looked good too. So I think at this point its looking like a new set of pistons and rings. Hopefully all of the cylinders will be good with just a hone....

Kira, I'm looking for the same part. It was my post that you commented in the WTB section. It is the horn contact assembly. What I am confused about is that the picture of your steering wheel has those parts already installed. What exactly do you need? I had a beat up 280z wheel which i swapped out for the 240z wheel. The wheel didn't come with the horn contact assembly. I was just recently able to find one source other than the ebay posting mentioned above. It was selling for $80. S If you need the assembly from a 77/78 280z i have what you need.

Posted to their FB page, Benton Performance is hosting a tribute to John May 7.

Kira You're not missing anything. That's all there is to the early horn button. The cracked plastic ring is normal. That's why it falls off when you hit a bump or in your case will fall off when you hit a bump. Haven't tried it yet, but the crack(s) could be cleaned, epoxied and squeezed together while curing with a hose clamp. Don't see why it wouldn't work.

So tuning on the fly, I like that.

Fastwoman's theory was the ecu would drift out of spec over the years causing the resistance to raise or lower. So it was get a new ecu or spend $5 at Radio Shack. I chose the $5 fix. What like about mine is you get to tweak it on the fly. When I'm on the interstate I can lean it a little and get better MPGs and also lower the temp gauge. I've got mine in the passenger's floor board. Too lazy to hide it under the dash for now.

This one just popped up on FeeBay from a 70 and a reasonable starting price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-240Z-Horn-Contact-Parts-/322087753658?hash=item4afded17ba:g:9-QAAOSwaZdXH6QB&vxp=mtr

Dropped the car off this afternoon. Had a bunch of Zcars in the mix in the garage! Also, spoke with Les Cannaday out of Classic Datsun Motorsports about the car before I took it down. He knew of Buck and the shop I was taking it to and said he does great work. I am confident she is in good hands! Fingers crossed for cylinder 6's good fortune!!

I got a call today about a lime yellow 240 a guy needs to get rid of. Hopefully I can see it soon. I love that color and its original, no paint job. Needs struts and brakes. Perfect to me! I'll let you know with pictures. Thanks again.

I think that she's planning to buy a 77 horn button assembly. The diagram shows an exploded view but the button contains all of those parts. So, as site says, if the three holes match, the button and its parts will work. I think it will work, but won't look quite right. You can always resell it though, when you find the right one.

That's a possibility. Check out the "Help Identify this part..." thread. Horn buttons, early and late. You have all of them. I suggested you as a source of knowledge.

You should be able to push it down off the clips then turn it it clockwise until it clicks down onto the clips. The plastic on back of the horn pad has three indentions. Start to the left of those and turn, it'll click into place. I can show you pictures tomorrow when I'm on my laptop.

I was wondering if you were going to crank it up. I would test for shorts with a meter or test probe first. Check from the power supply side to ground of things that only get power when the key is On. Something will show continuity to ground that shouldn't. The charge wire, white-red, from the alternator is hot as soon as you connect the battery, so not IGN controlled.

Looks like some of the parts are the same, but not the complete assembly. Changed July 1973. Click on the double black arrow at the bottom of the illustration to see pre- and after. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-wheel#1