Leaderboard

Last night I replaced the choke (cold start) cables for the carburetors. They need to slide freely and after 44 years of usage and most likely never being lubricated since new, it was time. After doing some research I found that 0.055" Piano wire is the best option for replacement as its affordable and able to push and pull, which is required. I also have more than enough left over and only paid $4.60.After disconnecting the cables from the carbs and pulling the center console apart, I removed the cables from inside the cabin, then measured the length needed. I left myself an extra foot before I cut the Piano wire. I bent it around the mounting plate and then lubed it very very very good before fishing it back into the housing and reconnecting. I'm very pleased with the results!Link to Piano Wire used:http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3JQGC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

A couple days ago I asked if anyone had a picture of how they dressed when their Z was new. That started me searching to see if I had any from 1971. Here's a picture of what a well dressed new Z owner (me) wore in November of 1971in Northern Wisconsin. I was an Air Force 1st Lieutenant fresh back from living in the Philippines for a year and a half while keeping the world safe from Communism. Be sure to check out the white leather sheepskin lined jacket I had picked up in India while traveling around Asia. Also note the grey cashmere turtleneck sweater. I was cooler than the snow I was standing in. Dennis

Shape the floor pan. It's easy to do. Make a series of cuts in to the floor pan about every 2", closer where a tight radius is needed. Take a heel dolly and round the floor pan to it turn up where needed. Zip screw it in place. Take a body saw or cut off tool and cut the tunnel and floor pan in one pass. Tack it in place and form some more with a heel dolly. weld it all up...

I've driven my '71 for 45 years without any vapor lock problems. Summer temps run about 115º here in the desert. Dennis

More stuff (thanks Patcon!):

That is good one. Each layer makes me cry a little more.

To get the studs out, first clean them off really good with a small wire brush. Second, mix up a 50/50 mix of red Dexron 3 auto. trans fluid and acetone. I bought a bottle with a syringe on top that allows me to apply it in very tight areas with pin point accuracy. Apply it several times over the course of a few hours and even a few days if needed. Put two nuts on top backed up against one another and try turning the stud. Don't force it as it will break. If needed, get a propane torch and heat up the metal around the studs but not the studs themselves. As always, keep a fire extinguisher close for safety. Syringe Top Bottle - http://www.amazon.com/Needle-Dropper-Bottles-E-liquids-Liquids/dp/B00P0D4BRU

Kats, Congrats on the new ZG. It is a beautiful car. Hope all is well and if ever in LA/Long Beach CA let me know.

The manual is undergoing significant changes, so yes, the left side index is missing in action. It will return soon Thanks, Lars Tungen www.carpartsmanual.com

http://www.mangago.me/read-manga/project_x_datsun_fairlady_z/tr/70035/page/9/

Fresh off the printer Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

If any one is looking for a free solid modeling cad option you might want to check out Onshape. I'm not a user or afilliated but it looks interesting. https://www.onshape.com/ It is a cloud based app so there a no files to install and apparently if can be run on almost any device. It is relatively new but looks to have most features that will get you started to see if 3D cad is right for you. One catch is that all your work is also on the cloud and the free version is limited to 10 files (up to 100MB) being private, but you can also make your work public with unlimited files up to 5GB. The free version is not feature crippled and apparently is exactly the same operationally as the professional version which has a monthly fee and no private file quantity or size restrictions. FWIW Mike