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Welding itself is not difficult if the conditions are good. What makes it difficult, even for a pro, is contamination and crappy fitting parts. Much like painting, most of the work is done in the prep stages. Clean steel and minimal gaps (1/16" is too wide, 1/32" is good) make welding a lot easier when butt welding thin sheet metal. Care in fitting the new steel to the old will be rewarded. The finished work will look much more professional.

ECU report....! Well, there is actually nothing to report. Redbird is being very normal. Not a single stall, running very well. The one thing I do notice is that she is running so smooth, like silk. It's not that she was running rough, it's just there is a noticeable difference. So something changed. Thanks to rcb280z for sending the ECU. That apparently was the real problem. Tho, she is still in the "honeymoon" period, so I Will continue to monitor her and report back.

Interesting. Apart from visual there are some structual differences behind the valance panel. Keeping in mind the frame was altered for the extra stress of the 5mph bumpers and support for the bumper shocks. I have read one or two threads with people talking about it, but they never reported back doing it. If you are dealing with rust issues then the 240Z valance could be a good option. If you have the early model like Mark then you also have more holes to fill not just the two bumper shock holes which good make the change more interesting. I just welded plates in the bumper shock holes. One clear difference is the mounting point holes with M10 threads in the frame for the bumper brackets. The bumper mount holes are in the horizontal position on the 240Z and on the early 280Z both sides are diagonal and the later 280Z the left mount is diagonal and the right side in a wierd vertical position.

huh-huh-huh... he said naked butt!

Many of us use our cars as "reasons" to buy new tools/toys but really, cutting wires, stripping the ends, and reconnecting with naked butt connectors and shrink tubing would be a perfectly viable way to get it done, as far as functionality. Makes some people queasy but the method has survived the test of time. Once it's done and the AFM is plugged back in, you might never remove it again.

Back to Wheee!'s topic. I Don't know what price you got your tank for but I found this on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-12-74-7-76-280z-Coupe-EFI-Fuel-Tank-BOILED-OUT-COATED-/141894648036?hash=item21099480e4:g:CcMAAOSwX~dWsj2n&vxp=mtr

Once you get Weber's dialed in properly, they should drive like a Fuel injected car. The good point about Weber's is that everything is adjustable. The bad point about Weber's is that everything is adjustable..... Big chokes will make Power at the Top end.. but at expense of drive-ability and low end Torque on the street. Unfortunately, a lot of Weber choke size information pertains to Racing engines, which seldom run below 5,000 to 5,500 RPM's. On the street ( and Autocross and Hillclimbs) I'll take 10 ft/lbs Torque with a nice fat and flat Torque curve over 10 HP at Peak RPM any day. Actually, on most Road Courses, I'd take that trade-off as well..

So, can a 280Z valence be swapped for a 240Z valence for a small bumper swap? Most people have to weld up the bumper shock holes when they do the swap.

I didn't know Charlie made those...or the rear valances either. That makes it so much easier to save questionable cars...

+1 on the good crimper - a ratcheting style is even better because you can't release it without full throw, which helps ensure you get 'em good. i got my crimpers from Vintage Connections http://vintageconnections.com/ click on the "tools" tab - makes electrical work soooo much nicer. don't waste your time with the hardware store variety, unless you want to do the job over again...

Oh very glad to hear this wondrous outcome. That is amazing! Praise the Lord!!! Give Kathy big hugs from me. My phone is gone, and the tablet was down. So no way to contact you or get an update. Finally had to do a complete factory restore on this tablet so it lost all my stuff. Lots of work ahead.

I have the Hobart 210 or 230 from them. I like it and haven't really had any issues. I find running thin wire .023 or .025 makes it easier to weld on these thin cars. Real thin areas on setting #1 about 20 in/min thicker stuff on #2 at about 25 in/min very rarely up to #3 or #4. Also keep the feed line as straight as possible if it has a lot of turns in it sometimes it doesn't feed consistently. You should have plenty of welder, so with a little practice you will figure it out. Are you using shield gas? I don't like flux core wire....

OMG that just made me spit out my coffee!!!