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I'm lucky enough to have accumulated a bunch of toys at this time and my wife hasn't forced me to get rid of any of them YET! First and foremost is my latest baby: 1978 280Z My 2008 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder A daily driven 2015 Range Rover Sport supercharged 2012 BMW R1200RT 2000 BMW R1150GS Custom 1918 HD Replica And last but not at all least, a 2006 Ducati Paul Smart 1000 Limited Edition

Well?

I think we can rule out overheating based on the temperature readings you took. Actual temp is within normal range, gauge reads,high. So, some questions. Did the Z ever run well after you bought it? If so, how long, weeks, months, days? Did anyone check the running condition of the car for you before you bought it? if I remember correctly, you're taking the previous owner's word for what was done to the Z mechanically before you bought it. The engine rebuild was provided by a questionable vendor who has had many complaints about shoddy engine rebuilds in the past. You won't know what's in the engine unless you tear it down and rebuild it - a costly process. I'd suggest looking for an experienced Nissan mechanic and start over if you plan to keep the car. Dennis

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html Tough phenolic resin penetrates, converts and encapsulates the rust on the internal surface Zinc phosphate seals it to prevent future corrosion 24"-long tube with conical nozzle reaches in to spray coating in a radial pattern for complete coverage Aerosol covers 10 sq. ft., qt. covers 50 sq. ft. Fully cures in 24 hours US $18.00 per can. For your small-ish job, one can should be enough. The features of this product that make it attractive are: 1. Zinc phosphate content helps to neutralize whatever rust might already be there, while the resin base seals off the surfaces from exposure to air and water 2. The applicator is a long, skinny tube with a special, multi-directional spray tip on the end -- perfect for what you want to do. I found that the tube had an undesirable curvature that made the tip scrape against one wall of the structure, so I heated it with my heat gun and then flat-rolled on my workbench using a spare piece of flat 1é2`plywood. The tube straightened out very nicely and held its new shape. 3. Cures to a dry surface (unlike wax-type cavity sealers), so won't trap dirt Practice the application first, so that you can execute an nice steady 'pull' for even, run-free coverage. Be careful not to snag the tip of the spray wand on a lip inside the A-pillar, since you will then be holding a 'live' spray can, pointed at your pretty yellow paint. In face, some judicious masking around the top of the A-pillar might be a good idea for just this reason. I wish my Z looked as nice as yours. Keep us posted on your build.

If you have your shop plumbed for air, it is important to give yourself a water trap and drain. Here is an example that we use at our local workshop. The ball valve can be cracked to drain the water from the line without removing the air hose. The trap also keeps water from accumulating when not in use. Sorry for the sideways pic. It is correct on my computer. The forum is turning it for some reason.

I would take some chunks of the stuff and see if it dissolves in anything. Vinegar comes to mind, or some of that CLR product. If it dissolves and breaks up fill the engine with whatever does the job and let it sit. If it doesn't soften up or dissolve it seems like you have a big job ahead. It kind of looks like there was some foaming going on and maybe a leak-sealer was added. Makes you wonder if there's not a bigger problem behind it. I bought a low-cost OReilly auto parts radiator, Murray brand, I believe, and it works great, no problems keeping up. That's on a 76 280Z with a fan shroud, but some very hot days in the Oregon summer.

That looks to be one fantastic separator you have there. Never have I seen one like that. I google it and see about getting one for myself, nothing more important on my type air work. Great info! Thanks!

Close to stock and getting better.

Onward with sound deadening. I screwed up on my order and bought 1/4" closed-cell foam mat instead of the 1/8" I'd used before. That's a comparison between what I had left over and what I bought. It's fairly expensive stuff, though, so I ran with it and hopefully it won't be a problem when laying the carpet. I did a couple test fittings and I think it'll work okay. A few pictures of the whole process, which is basically just a lot of measuring, cutting, sticking. Oh, I was clever and did this with the leftovers. Should've thought of it weeks ago. As for the weight? It's heavy stuff: 1lb per square foot. I didn't measure, but I'd guess there's probably about 20lbs total in the car. Santa brought me the ACC carpet kit, which I'm diligently avoiding installing at the moment, since I don't yet have the nerve to start cutting it up So I decided to start cleaning up the rear deck a bit instead because it -- like everything else -- was disgusting. Shots before, after using detergent, and finally the steam cleaner. Still not entirely happy, but I may call it good enough until I get around to stripping and painting the rear deck. My great victory for the night was on the wheel well and tower vinyl trim. Even after scrubbing and steaming, it was still deeply dirty and stained. On a whim, I tried wiping a stain with acetone, which took the stain and a lot of accompanying grime right off. I went through 6 paper towels that all look like that one before calling it an evening, but already the trim is back to life! Too bad about the rips, but I can put off replacing for a while until the budget allows.

not the best pic but the three Z's fit